3B starter 5.9L Cummins nosecone swap (1 Viewer)

Rollinns

SILVER Star
Joined
May 11, 2012
Messages
148
Location
MO
in the past, a common repair was the "nosecone swap" from a 2L or 2LT starter. You can read about it here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3b-starter-replacement-nose-cone-swap.807475/

(That link also shows you everything you need to do what I call the "3B starter 5.9L Cummins nosecone swap", except for the Cummins application and the part to order or cross reference, read on all that info is in here.)
but that 2L/2LT Toyota part was discontinued when my starter was starting to give me troubles, MUD member lowenbrau mentioned I could swap a nosecone from a 5.9L Cummins starter (link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3b-starter-died.155071/#post-2159751). After swapping the new motor, new plunger, contacts, etc. to the old 3B nosecone/housing, this worked for me. I bought a starter to fit a:

1996 DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP 5.9L L6 DIESEL Turbocharged

I found that some starters said they were rated at 2.5kW or 2.7kW and some didn't have kW rating info. From all the info on MUD about 3B starters, as long as your getting one that's at least 2.5kW for a 3B, your fine. (reference link https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3b-starter-compatibility.248398/#post-3798575)

The new starter from Rockauto.com was about $140 USD + shipping, the Remy brand starter arrived brand new (it didn't appear to be a reman with some new parts) and no core was required. I never found the kW rating for the Remy but it's starts the engine a lot easier and faster than the old worn out starter.

Remy part number: 99611
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1096017&parttype=4152

The old swap used a Toyota part number that looked nearly identical to the 3B one, with the only difference being a different clocking of the mounting flange, the Cummins nosecone is very different, but since all you need to swap is the motor and the plunger, contacts, etc. it's just as easy and works great.

Thanks to lowenbrau for pointing me in this direction, my family and I really appreciate a truck that starts without the need for jumper cables.

Note to Landcruiser newbies:
If you have starter issues, clean the copper contact surfaces of the starter solenoid plunger and the copper contacts it touches. Dirty contacts can cause a No Start condition where you hear a click but the starter doesn't spin, but if you turn the key enough times with a fully charger battery, then it might start. I cleaned them several times over 18 months to fix my starter problems for free. If you need to replace the contacts, it's simple and only costs about $30 for a new plunger and contacts. Youtube videos can show you how simple it is to clean or replace them.

One other thing I learned : some airports will not allow a 3B starter to be in a carry-on bag, only in a checked bag, now I know. :bang:

Disclaimer: I don't work for, nor am I affiliated in any way with Rockauto.com other than being a customer, nor was I compensated by them in anyway, I also did not receive any discount from them, but I would gladly accept any compensation they would like to offer. :)
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2015
Messages
13
Location
Maple Ridge, British Columbia
Well it’s 2019 so I figured I’d drag up this old thread, what I have found is you can use the starter from a 1994-2002 dodge ram 2500 or 3500 5.9 diesel, 12 volt. All you need to be able to salvage is your original aluminum housing. I was able to use the new motor, (drilled a new drain hole so it is in the correct place), new plunger, contacts, all the bearings and gears (except for the actual gear that contacts the flywheel). I did not use the new solenoid winding as mine was still in good shape, it would only require a little bit of soldering to use it. The particular starter I used was a new Ac-delco 337-1099 2.7kw. However any 5.9 starter will have more than enough power for the 3B. Cost me $265CAD and was in stock on the shelf at my nearby auto parts supplier. Cranks it way quicker, and sounds like a brand new kubota. The hardest part was transferring the drive gear from the old bendix to the new one as you have to compress a spring while removing the clip on the nose

Hopefully this info helps someone
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