36" bias ply iroks.

[cc93cruiser]

Just ordered some bias ply Iroks 36x13.5r16 tires for my cruiser..Had some questions and was wondering if any one has pics installed in their 80.Before you guys tell me that the search button is my friend or flame me, I searched and got nothing but T Y L E R pics (damn where is he?).*Main question* Will my cruiser be alright with these tires? I know everyone talks about 37's being to tall, and it is nessecary to upgrade the rear axles to poly's and the front birfs to Chromemoly ones, but these are 36's. Also I noticed that tyler had 1.5 wheel spacers along with the stock rims, do I need these spacers to fit? I have 4" slee springs also and would be mounting these tires on the stock alloys. Any pics suggestions on upgrading to heavier duty axles.. FYI I already have 4.88's and have 35" km's currently on factory lockers.. Will the new tires be much heavier and taller than 35's. Are these true 36" tires or taller? I know so many questions, just notcied after I bought them online, that I hadn't researched a lot about them..

 

[Bear80]

I asked some of the same questions you have while I built up my truck with 36" radials.

Bias plys will run what a radial 37" is. Take a look at Interco's web site. Note not only the tire measurements but the revolutions which is a better idea of the tire's true size. On top of that the bias ply bulge much more on the sidewides, giving you more chance of rubbing body parts.

With my radial 36s I have 1" wheel spacers which keeps the tires from rubbing anything, though I did have to trim my rear flares and mud flaps.

How is your castor corrected? If you mearly have Slee plates, running a wheel spacer will cause major rub on the front inner fender and mud flap. Slee arms or Land Tank plates will solve this problem.

As for the axles, the response I got was that it depends how you wheel. I did a poll and the majority voted to leave the stock axles and birfields. However, with the rubicon in your neck of the woods I would think heavy, sticky iroks might force you into new axle parts.

Good luck!

-PS, wheels spacers are not really necessary. Without them though the rear tires will rub right in the middle of the wheel well just above the frame on the body.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Ben thanks for the response.. I am not really worried about the tires rubbing at full flex, as I have slee 4" springs and have no flares or mud flaps on cruiser.. I am worried about the width if the tires being to wide and rubbing in inside steering components or something in there.. Do I need wheel spacers? Don't really want to use spacers.. I know it sounds silly, but I only have slee blue castor bushings to correct caster, my cruiser is very much weighed down with all the armor and accessories, winch etc...

 

[Bear80]

I don't recall there being much up front to worry about rubbing if you have pulled the flares. The tires being taller and wider than what I got, I would tell you to mount them up and see if you may need wheel spacers. In the rear you will rub the body like I said but that's up to you, it's nothing to loose sleep over.

So why the choice of bias plys?

 

[cc93cruiser]

2 words, much cheaper. The radials were a lot more.. These are going to be my wheeling tires for the most part. Still keeping my bfg km's as daily drivers.. I am lucky I guess, I have 2 sets of stock alloys. Thanks again Ben.

 

[Bear80]

That is def. the way to go with bias plys.

I think there is another member here in Alaska that runs the 36" bias plys, hopefuly he will chim in.

 

[powderpig]

I have 36 13 16 swamper TSL bias ply tires that I run on my 80. I have a 6inch lift. I have the tires mounted on 16x10 rims that have a 4.5 back spacing. With out spacers the tires work great on the truck. They will hit in the back tire tuck on the inside fender well. The main place they hit in front was My ARB bumper. I had to trim the wings about 2 inches so upon full stuff the lugs would not hit the bumper when turning.
That said, you lift is slightly lower and you are getting a different type of tire from Interco. So you can not fully compare this to my set up. It also sounds like you will be running a 8 in wide rim, which will round the tire out more, thus it might make it a bit skinnier. Any how it should work, but you may have to make some adjustments to some part of the body and such after you mount the ries on the truck.
As for axles and such. I think the front birf will wear quicker. I have not busted a stock birf yet with the 36 bias on the truck. Nor have I twisted the rear axle on my electric locker 80. I have found that the stock p/s system will heat up more and may create more problems then the rest of the issues you have brought up. I have not found a good solution for me yet on the power steering yet. I do not know if I want to go with a assist ram or not. I am not a real throttle jocky (which tends to break stuff).
So it may be a good experment for you to set your truck up after you get the tires you have chosen. Good luck, robbie

 

[JACOBYWESTERN]

Here's pictures of one of our club members with 36X13-16 IROK radials on his 80. They fit fine, no rubbing.

Rear Bumper Install

Here's pictures of an 80 run we did this summer.

The light colored 80 had 37x14-16 IROK bias. They're awesome but a hair wide and they rubbed the flairs a bit.

The green 80 with the bling-bling wheels is the same one shown above and runs a 4" Slee lift and the other green 80 with black steel wheels is running 36x12.5-16 TSL radials with 4" Slee lift and no rubbing.

Belenger Pass trip

Hope my fellow club members don't mind me talking about their rigs - they're on MUD.....sometimes.

 

[cc93cruiser]

I have 36 13 16 swamper TSL bias ply tires that I run on my 80. I have a 6inch lift. I have the tires mounted on 16x10 rims that have a 4.5 back spacing. With out spacers the tires work great on the truck. They will hit in the back tire tuck on the inside fender well. The main place they hit in front was My ARB bumper. I had to trim the wings about 2 inches so upon full stuff the lugs would not hit the bumper when turning.
That said, you lift is slightly lower and you are getting a different type of tire from Interco. So you can not fully compare this to my set up. It also sounds like you will be running a 8 in wide rim, which will round the tire out more, thus it might make it a bit skinnier. Any how it should work, but you may have to make some adjustments to some part of the body and such after you mount the ries on the truck.
As for axles and such. I think the front birf will wear quicker. I have not busted a stock birf yet with the 36 bias on the truck. Nor have I twisted the rear axle on my electric locker 80. I have found that the stock p/s system will heat up more and may create more problems then the rest of the issues you have brought up. I have not found a good solution for me yet on the power steering yet. I do not know if I want to go with a assist ram or not. I am not a real throttle jocky (which tends to break stuff).
So it may be a good experment for you to set your truck up after you get the tires you have chosen. Good luck, robbie

Robbie, thanks for the insight... I think I will play it safe and give Christo a call tomorrow and order the fr and rr axles. Also I hope my power steering system does not have any problems.. Time will tell I guess, I dont wheel as often as I would like too, and when I do I am no where near a throttle jockey either. Thanks again..

 

[cc93cruiser]

Here's pictures of one of our club members with 36X13-16 IROK radials on his 80. They fit fine, no rubbing.

Rear Bumper Install

Here's pictures of an 80 run we did this summer.

The light colored 80 had 37x14-16 IROK bias. They're awesome but a hair wide and they rubbed the flairs a bit.

The green 80 with the bling-bling wheels is the same one shown above and runs a 4" Slee lift and the other green 80 with black steel wheels is running 36x12.5-16 TSL radials with 4" Slee lift and no rubbing.

Belenger Pass trip

Hope my fellow club members don't mind me talking about their rigs - they're on MUD.....sometimes.

Thanks for the links bro.. Would you happen to know if the back spacing is the same on your friend's rig (green 80) than the stock alloys?

 

[cc93cruiser]

You guys think it would be a good idea to install the rear axles right away and install the front later on, since the front is a little bit more involved, rebuilt the front not to long ago, dont really want to tear into that thing again....? What u guys think?

 

[cc93cruiser]

With my radial 36s I have 1" wheel spacers which keeps the tires from rubbing anything, though I did have to trim my rear flares and mud flaps.

Ben I forgot to ask you last night, would you happen to know if your tires would rub without the 1" spacers you installed?

 

[Bear80]

-PS, wheels spacers are not really necessary. Without them though the rear tires will rub right in the middle of the wheel well just above the frame on the body.

This would be the only place my tires would rub without spacers. In the front there wasn't a problem without spacers, but with them my tires just clear the mud flap and flare. Obviously a problem you don't have to worry about.

 

[powderpig]

I did not mention I have never busted a front inner axle either. I carry them but have not used them. As for the rear ones, while I have not hurt a rear one I know that with 235k miles on the truck and the weight I carry mostly(6.5k to 7k) over the last 100k miles. I think it is time to change out the rear, I have not decided on if I will go stock or aftermarket yet. I have not done the research yet. Anyhow this is a project for later this spring.
A little help for the steering is a later model P/S pump(95-97), I know it puts out more pressure(due tot he pressure relief valve), just do not remember how much(I think a couple hundred more psi). good luck with the choices. later Robbie

 

[jonheld]

FWIW I run 36x12.50 TSL/SX on mine with the OME J springs all around. My rims are 15x8 with a 4" BS. Tires will rub slightly on full stuff. If your tires don't rub then you can fit bigger tires.

 

[Atoyot1031]

Aren't those tires heavier than hell? I don't know how much road driving you guys do, but here at altitude (8,000 ft.) with 4.88s, supercharged, with a nice exhaust and 35 Wrangler MTRs, I'd worry about loosing my roadability. Just wondering...

P.S. as 35s with 4.88s are slightly over geared compared to stock. Do 36s put your speedo right on or slightly under?

 

[Nay]

The easy solution? Leave it on 35's and forget about it. If you really need 36's you probably really need 37's in which case you'd might as well go 38's

Quite the game of dominoes to start just because you didn't research a tire you maybe don't really need? Those bias ply swampers aren't sounding all that cheap...seems a strange choice to save a few bucks on tires to then start dropping huge coin on axle upgrades. What happens when you frag the e-locker now that everything else is stronger?

 

[cc93cruiser]

What happens when you frag the e-locker now that everything else is stronger?

Ok I am confused as far as the weak link everyone talks about in the rear differential.. I thought it was the splines from the rear axles that get twisted while wheeling hard with big tires, or is it a problem with the 3rd member/locker itself? FYI, I called evil money sucking christo and bought poly rears and cromo fronts.......

 

[cc93cruiser]

I did not mention I have never busted a front inner axle either. I carry them but have not used them. As for the rear ones, while I have not hurt a rear one I know that with 235k miles on the truck and the weight I carry mostly(6.5k to 7k) over the last 100k miles. I think it is time to change out the rear, I have not decided on if I will go stock or aftermarket yet. I have not done the research yet. Anyhow this is a project for later this spring.
A little help for the steering is a later model P/S pump(95-97), I know it puts out more pressure(due tot he pressure relief valve), just do not remember how much(I think a couple hundred more psi). good luck with the choices. later Robbie

I actually have an extra 97 power steering pump lying around from when I swapped pumps on dad's 97, we thought that had a problem, but ended up being the power steering gear box...

 

[Nay]

Ok I am confused as far as the weak link everyone talks about in the rear differential.. I thought it was the splines from the rear axles that get twisted while wheeling hard with big tires, or is it a problem with the 3rd member/locker itself? FYI, I called evil money sucking christo and bought poly rears and cromo fronts.......

The wallet is always a good solution

Wheel it and adjust what doesn't fit. I could easily fit 36's on mine in terms of the flareless wheel wells...if you need a 1" spacer just do it. The stock rims are designed to accept a spacer that is less than the length of the studs.

I don't know about the e-locker issue, that's why I stayed with 35's . But given that the ARB is regarded as a necessary solution for really big meats, it's not just the axle shafts. Despite my earlier comments , I wouldn't personally worry about 36's with the stock stuff because I would still be running the same trails somewhat easier.

We've heard all about not doing 5.29's over 4.88's because that one extra ring gear tooth is going to make all the difference , and you can see which way I went on that one

This is what a 35" trxus looks like at full stuff on my lift without flares. Ton of room for an additional inch of diameter - it's the the 13.5" width that may cause the issue. If trxus MT's ever come out in a 36x12.5x16 I don't see how I'll resist given I already have more than enough gearing...