So i want to put 35's on my 04 double cab4x4 but from what i have found i'm either spending 3k on suspension and need fiberglass fenders for the long arm kits or i have to cut the wheel wells out and modify the inner sheet metal in the fenders . Are there any other options out there that i'm missing .
35's without hacking sheet metal? (1 Viewer)
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I've seen a few 4Runners rocking 35's with "minimal metal work by tapping the corners in with a sledge. The amount of metal work depends on the tires you get, not all 35x12.50 have the exact same dimensions.
If you don't want to limit up travel then you are looking at metal work for 35s. No way around it. Besides a ridiculous body lift that I wouldn't suggest to my worst enemy.
35's are a big step for an IFS truck. The extra weight of the tires puts a lot more stress on the bearing, suspension and drive train. So then it starts... you might need new UCAs to clear the wide tires, wheel spacers, new wheels, lower gears, trans cooler, bigger brakes....
I personally love my 35s. My road to 35s cost around $3k in parts all said and done with. $1600 tires, $300 Tundra brakes, $250 Wheels, $700 UCAs, $100 spacers and some other odds and ends, sure I'm forgetting something. A year into beating it up and wheeling out in NorCal earned me a couple busted teeth on the front gear. $3k later I had an ARB up front and 4.88s. And a $1500 TRD S/C to help lug the little bastard up these hills.
+side of 35s - obstacles can be negotiated at a slower speed (usually), extra ground clearance, more aggressive tires in the 35+ category and it just looks a hell of a lot more beast. I could explain the huge difference I had between my 33 Kumos and my 35 Pitbulls, just night and day. Check out the vid
I'm not trying to deter you from 35s. I'm encouraging as long as you're comfortable knowing what you're getting into. Here's a link to the 4Runners on 35s thread. Front end is basically the same but you should have less to worry about in the rear as the Tacos leafs don't flex as much. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/108367-official-3rd-gen-4runners-35s-pic-thread.html
If you don't want to limit up travel then you are looking at metal work for 35s. No way around it. Besides a ridiculous body lift that I wouldn't suggest to my worst enemy.
35's are a big step for an IFS truck. The extra weight of the tires puts a lot more stress on the bearing, suspension and drive train. So then it starts... you might need new UCAs to clear the wide tires, wheel spacers, new wheels, lower gears, trans cooler, bigger brakes....
I personally love my 35s. My road to 35s cost around $3k in parts all said and done with. $1600 tires, $300 Tundra brakes, $250 Wheels, $700 UCAs, $100 spacers and some other odds and ends, sure I'm forgetting something. A year into beating it up and wheeling out in NorCal earned me a couple busted teeth on the front gear. $3k later I had an ARB up front and 4.88s. And a $1500 TRD S/C to help lug the little bastard up these hills.
+side of 35s - obstacles can be negotiated at a slower speed (usually), extra ground clearance, more aggressive tires in the 35+ category and it just looks a hell of a lot more beast. I could explain the huge difference I had between my 33 Kumos and my 35 Pitbulls, just night and day. Check out the vid
I'm not trying to deter you from 35s. I'm encouraging as long as you're comfortable knowing what you're getting into. Here's a link to the 4Runners on 35s thread. Front end is basically the same but you should have less to worry about in the rear as the Tacos leafs don't flex as much. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/108367-official-3rd-gen-4runners-35s-pic-thread.html
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Bawlz Deep- looks like you used to live near Eglin AFB. I thought the photo before starting the video looked familiar, then I started the video and said to myself, "that's not NorCal!"
You're not missing anything.
I got my 1998 Reg Cab 6 years ago and I wanted to run 35" tires. No specific reason just had that number in mind and wanted my truck to have them. My El Cheapo method involved a 2.5" spacer/shackle lift and a 3" body lift. Then came the tires. My first problem was 35x12.50R15 tires with stock rims rub the UCA, Got a set of off set rims that got the tires off the control arms. And they rubbed bad at full lock. Mashed my inner fender/pinch weld with a hammer got it to fit on level ground. Off road and compressed they rubbed BAD even close to full turn. Whats more they even rubbed on the frame at full lock. The rears rubbed the fender towards the rear of the fender opening when close to full compression. I cut my fenders beat things into submission (all of which I regret now). I have since taken off my body lift and stepped down tire sizes to 31" tires for mileage, to keep my locked front alive as long as possible, and so the wifey can get in with out a ladder or a "Good Game" boost. Hind sight, I would have done 33" would have been much happier. Now I got a cut up beat up truck with fenders that should probably be repaired/replaced, also the tires stick out passed the fenders and have chewed up my rocker panels with rocks pretty bad. IMHO try 33x10.50's if you don't want to cut up a good truck.
Any reason for 35" specifically?
Any reason for 35" specifically?