I'm interested, but I'll need some solid numbers. The factory exhaust is stainless and I wouldn't think of replacing it with anything less.)
304 is much better than stock. I am also not too impressed with the stock system. Mine sure has a bunch of corrosion on the pipe, hangers like the one welded to the muffler corroded at the welds and broke. Sure stock is mandrel bent and better than aluminized but not that much better..
So, then how much for stainless complete? )
Is it 304 or 314?
304 pipe with 409 stainless on the muffler. 409 is possible for the rest but not very cost effective. I will get an answer about the cost of ss systems. I do know that if only my one system was made in 3" ss with a 409 stainless muffler and full stainless hardware and hangers it would be about $1200-$1400 or so.. But this included a full installation of everything and footed the bill on its own for the time spent designing and perfecting the system.
The exact cost will depend on how many get ordered and be pinned down exactly only after the first one is complete.
After it seems like the majority of interested people have contacted me I will give them numbers of each type of system (SS and Aluminized) and my truck for a while. Knowing about how many of each will be made will narrow the price down more combining this info with actually doing the first one will allow an exact price to be calculated.
Hmm. The Y tube is the #1 point of failure (see REAL noisy) in the factory exhaust. It is also nasty expensive to replace from Toyota. If I were to go through the expense to do this in after-factory custom stainless, I'd want that Y pipe to be included. Otherwise you still have a 2" restriction to the end of the Y pipe even if you go 3" from that point on)
Actually that far upstream a 2" pipe where it goes 2 to 1 is not that much of a restriction provided it is smooth transition. In fact it would outflow going right to 3" from the stock primary tubes. It is hot as heck there and retaining the velocity helps. It also helps get the converter(s) hot and working quicker. Exhaust should get bigger gradually as the gasses cool and velocity slows.
Was the question about going oval over the rail answered?)?
It will be over the frame. Oval or not depends on what they feel works when they do it. I have seen people use full 3" over the frame and where OEM was pinched for the crossmember outback. Hanger placement made that possible... I will not be using my truck since I will be heading over seas.. So they can have it as long as they wish to get things right.
Looks like I might be coming back for 4-5 days in august before I go over.. I will be out of state for 2 months and out of the country for 10. So in early august I can actually get over to the shop.. I can have good friends deliver it to them and pick it up myself in August as well..
Right now I am just getting the ball rolling and coordinating things. Any actual ordering and payment will be done by others directly thru heartthrob. The idea is to get a bunch of mud members to go thru one great shop with state of the art mandrel equipment and get a much better system and deal than if we all went to some local shop with a press bender and got varied results and higher per system pricing since each one have to pay its own design time seperately.
Will they be supplying a bolt in heat shield to ride between the pipe and the floorboard (94 and earlier had this)?
No bolt in heat shield. That is a part that is easy to fabricate, buy used or get from a source like Cruiser Dan. I can do that but I cant operate or afford to buy a mandrel bender. I recomend getting some heat screen material from DEI and adding that over a heat sheild.
