to much? Mabey i want to get the most bang for my buck. what are some issues with ding this much body lift (aside from fan shrowd placement) is it to much lift, or shouldi go with a more conservative 1-2 inch body lift. Oh im gonna put the kit together my self with parts from the hardware store.
3 inch body lift
- Thread starter mp_cude
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Yes, too much in my opinion. I don't like the look of body lifts so I just did 1" and just had to adjust the fan shroud. You should be fine with 2" and watching everything. I have not heard of anyone doing 3" on a 60 so let us know either way what you do and what you had to adjust.
The issues I can think of now are:
transfer case linkage shifter clearance.
fan hitting the shroud on radiator
brakes lines going down from the body to the frame on the passenger side.
fuel hose down to tank from door.
The issues I can think of now are:
transfer case linkage shifter clearance.
fan hitting the shroud on radiator
brakes lines going down from the body to the frame on the passenger side.
fuel hose down to tank from door.
- Thread starter
- #3
yes the appearance of body lift is revolting to me also....im just trying to protect my "PERFECT BODY" haha, and cant really afford sliders. Now that you mention linkage though i'll probably go with a one inch. Any adjustment as that goes?
With 1" the fan shroud for sure. There are some cheaper options for sliders. I think Marlin still carries a pair you can weld on the frame. I had 2badfjs make me some sliders that fit right below my body and were offset with the 1" body lift. They are awesome and have already taken a lot of abuse on the trail. My body has some nice dents and scratches now but who cares. It was about perfect before Rubicon. 
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
Body Lifts are gay... If there was a way to drop the body, I would do it... Once you roll it once, You'll understand.
Never cared for body lifts at all till I bought a 60 with a 3" body lift already on it.
Now I'm ok with them.
It's been rolled twice, body never came off.
Some pluses:
Slider are easier to install. you can put some big tires on and stay SUA.
I raised my drivetrain up 3" and now run a flat belly pan.
Now I'm ok with them.
It's been rolled twice, body never came off.
Some pluses:
Slider are easier to install. you can put some big tires on and stay SUA.
I raised my drivetrain up 3" and now run a flat belly pan.
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
3" is too much. I recently went up 1" mostly for FL cruiser's stated reasons. The sliders fit better, along with a little more clearance around stuff when working on the drivetrain. When the 35" tires go on,( a long way off) I'll have just that much more wheelwell room that does not contribute to poor pinion angles and the like.
I had the same mentality when wanting a body lift, go big or go home right?. I ordered up a Roger Brown 3" Body lift with new poly bushings (nice product). But after doing some more research I decided to cut it down to a 2". I'm glad I did.
With the 2" BL, I had to cut out the bottom of the fan shroud (i could have lowered the entire rad housing but cutting it was much less work and from what I have read, there is minimal impact on engine cooling). The brake lines that run down to the frame were fine since there was a lot of play left in them (as the were coiled, i just had to bend them a bit longer). I had to make the 4L/H shifter opening about 2 inches wider at the 4H, 4L positions but didnt have to touch the main shifter. While you get an increase in shifter throw, the main shifter itself got shorter which i actually prefer now. I wasnt able to loosen up the steering shaft as the clamp was seized, but it didnt matter in the end since the rack and pininon accepted the lift angle just fine. I find the space between the front bumper and the body unremarkable and find the space at the back bumber asthetically acceptable.
If I had gone with a 3" lift I would have had to extend the clutch hose for sure, widen the shifter housing even more, fabricate a new shifter boot, lower the fan shroud instead of cutting it, raise the front and rear bumper... a lot of work for an extra inch... but thats just my opinion.
Ive wheeled it pretty hard and havent noticed any shifting in the body at all. But there is a lot to be said for replacing those poly bushings and retorquing with new hardware. Also making sure that the body mounts at the frame and the body have intact metal is important. (I went to the extent of cleaning the metal of rust and rust painting them a these locations before installing).
The 2 " lift gives you enough room between the body and frame to really clean it well in the winter and get at it if you want to rust paint it.
hope this helps
With the 2" BL, I had to cut out the bottom of the fan shroud (i could have lowered the entire rad housing but cutting it was much less work and from what I have read, there is minimal impact on engine cooling). The brake lines that run down to the frame were fine since there was a lot of play left in them (as the were coiled, i just had to bend them a bit longer). I had to make the 4L/H shifter opening about 2 inches wider at the 4H, 4L positions but didnt have to touch the main shifter. While you get an increase in shifter throw, the main shifter itself got shorter which i actually prefer now. I wasnt able to loosen up the steering shaft as the clamp was seized, but it didnt matter in the end since the rack and pininon accepted the lift angle just fine. I find the space between the front bumper and the body unremarkable and find the space at the back bumber asthetically acceptable.
If I had gone with a 3" lift I would have had to extend the clutch hose for sure, widen the shifter housing even more, fabricate a new shifter boot, lower the fan shroud instead of cutting it, raise the front and rear bumper... a lot of work for an extra inch... but thats just my opinion.
Ive wheeled it pretty hard and havent noticed any shifting in the body at all. But there is a lot to be said for replacing those poly bushings and retorquing with new hardware. Also making sure that the body mounts at the frame and the body have intact metal is important. (I went to the extent of cleaning the metal of rust and rust painting them a these locations before installing).
The 2 " lift gives you enough room between the body and frame to really clean it well in the winter and get at it if you want to rust paint it.
hope this helps
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I did the same lift, had the same exact situation with the 4 wheel drive shifter and everything, don't regret the 2" but agree that 3" is too much. I made my own kit with steel and got it cut and drilled. Did you ever get your lift on?
I've got a 1" and didn't require any adjustments of any kind. The fan shroud still has plenty of clearance. It gave me the clearance I needed but isn't obviously stupid looking. It 4 hour job tops.
1" BL here, and glad I did it. Honestly, Toyota set the body so darn close to the frame that it can be a hindrance without the body lift. Several times I've thanked myself for the added clearance while working on the rig let alone the suspension clearance. I can see a 2" BL IF someone really wants 35's with a SUA. Me, 33's with OME and 1" is about perfect. I like long legs.
FL Cruiser,
I am very interested in your body train lift. I have seen it done on a 4Runner but I have never considered it on a 60. Could you send me a link to pictures or offer up some insight on how difficult it is to do?
Thanks.
