2UZFE Swap

[Luke111]

Maybe @jetranger will chime in. He built a sick 40 and made everything work, vvti, a750f and all.

That guy also has mad skills.. wiring and electrical...fab skills and it was a 2.5 year build.

 

[Stevesnj]

This guy has a 2uz swap 2UZFE swap into FJ80 - building - in progress

 

[SmokingRocks]

I've seen "impossible swap" thrown around a bit here.

Let's just start by saying Nothing is impossible, it's all metal and parts. If it were me I'd do a body off swap. then lower the body down find the conflicts, cut grind out areas, bend sheets and weld in to create a finished project.

The transmission tunnel may grow, rear center seat legroom may shrink. But if you do a body lift you may be able to avoid all of that.

Nothing's impossible

 

[scottryana]

So you would put an 80 series body on a GX chassis and lose the solid front axle, and lose track width, wheelbase is also 3" shorter? Seems like an awful lot of work for an engine rated at 235hp/320ft/lbs, instead of just fixing up the 1FZ which is rated at 212hp/275ft/lbs.

I've seen "impossible swap" thrown around a bit here.

Let's just start by saying Nothing is impossible, it's all metal and parts. If it were me I'd do a body off swap. then lower the body down find the conflicts, cut grind out areas, bend sheets and weld in to create a finished project.

The transmission tunnel may grow, rear center seat legroom may shrink. But if you do a body lift you may be able to avoid all of that.

Nothing's impossible

 

[mechanist]

So you would put an 80 series body on a GX chassis and lose the solid front axle, and lose track width, wheelbase is also 3" shorter? Seems like an awful lot of work for an engine rated at 235hp/320ft/lbs, instead of just fixing up the 1FZ which is rated at 212hp/275ft/lbs.

The more I read about it the more I'm leaning towards fixing the 1FZ-FE. Right now I'm burning through 1qt of oil every thousand miles or so, and the motor stumbles when warmed. Then there is an intermittent series of rather violent sounding knocks. My CEL never comes on - except for one for something like 10 seconds. Then this GX pops up and I start thinking "swap it," but maybe it's just better to keep fixing it.

I don't know

 

[SmokingRocks]

So you would put an 80 series body on a GX chassis and lose the solid front axle, and lose track width, wheelbase is also 3" shorter? Seems like an awful lot of work for an engine rated at 235hp/320ft/lbs, instead of just fixing up the 1FZ which is rated at 212hp/275ft/lbs.

No I am saying do a body off engine swap. Put that engine in the 80's frame, then make the body work.

I also agree with you that its a lot of work for a marginal gain but thats beside the point. I'm also still waiting on someone to put their 1fz-fe on an engine dyno to prove those results. If its actually making that much power then the drive line loss through the A442F (or even worse the damn near 100lb lighter A343), T case and diffs is horrific based on the WHP dyno #'s I've seen

 

[SmokingRocks]

The more I read about it the more I'm leaning towards fixing the 1FZ-FE. Right now I'm burning through 1qt of oil every thousand miles or so, and the motor stumbles when warmed. Then there is an intermittent series of rather violent sounding knocks. My CEL never comes on - except for one for something like 10 seconds. Then this GX pops up and I start thinking "swap it," but maybe it's just better to keep fixing it.

I don't know

Jump TE1 and E1, the computer will store codes. Sometimes the CEL may not illuminate but there is still a code in its memory.

 

[White Stripe]

The more I read about it the more I'm leaning towards fixing the 1FZ-FE. Right now I'm burning through 1qt of oil every thousand miles or so, and the motor stumbles when warmed. Then there is an intermittent series of rather violent sounding knocks. My CEL never comes on - except for one for something like 10 seconds. Then this GX pops up and I start thinking "swap it," but maybe it's just better to keep fixing it.

I don't know

If your not going to keep the truck forever, and u don't have much for fab skills and a good garage setup, I would rebuild the 1fz. If your gonna keep it forever, and have good fab skills and a garage I would go either 6bt or ls motor.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Also I suspect the power loss through the A750 is much less than the A442F / A343. A short trip through the interweb revealed several people's stock dyno numbers around 180-205 WHP and 250+/- WTQ. these are pre-vvti 2UZ #'s as tested in the 4Runner platform in 2WD.

This is compared to the 110+/- WHP 120-150 WTQ from the 1fz drive-line.

So it would seem that the whole drive line loss of the 120 platform is much less than the 80's. If it were me and I could hang up the 80 for an extended amount of time I would probably try to tackle this. I would ditch everything except for the 80's axles, that way you also get the added feature of a part time conversion.

Mind you that there would be a LOT of custom fabrication and test fitting. A build like this would go fastest with the body off, dash out, carpet and seats out to allow access for the full electrical swap with custom gauges probably.... Lot of work but it would be wicked coool, even more almighty if the GX you sourced has the VVTi V8.

I would estimate a bare bones cost (excluding the cost of the GX and no while you are there items) would be around 2,000-3,000 most of that cost would be in the custom drive shafts and gauges/electrical. Now if you were to do it the way I would then your looking at north of 10,000.....


I'd love a V8 rumble from my 80, if it comes from a TEQ 8 pot thats even better.