2nd Gen 4Runner performance upgrades questions-

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

M

montourp

10 Year
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Threads
4
Messages
16
Location
Rexburg Idaho
I have a great 92 Runner with 210k. I just replaced both front CV's and have done all the breaks, oil leaks, tune up and filters.

I want to improve fuel efficiency. I run new 31's. All basic stock stuff. Its a daily driver, but occasionally I have to tow a heavy utility trailer, and it is really gutless. Give me your feedback on my issues and some pictures of your favorite upgrades for your 2nd Gen 4Runners

What type of intakes/ exhaust are you guys saying are great upgrades for power fuel effec. and still quiet. I don't like loud exhaust.

The rear sags. Do I get 2" rear coil spring spacers or do should I get new larger rear coil springs? What brands do you guys recommend to help the sagging issue?

When I tow my utility trailer i'd like to have better towing power, and less sag in the rear.
Exeter,CA 003.webp
1992 4runner.webp
 
what motor/tranny/t-case?
Need motor info to offer specific mods (IE headers)
Tranny to understand what you're runing
T-case, because a generation of T-case are hydraulic, and act like a power sink.

In all honesty, though, any mods nmay offer incrimental improvements at best, I once thought I could really mod up The Mule, and squeeze some nice MPGs out; but instead, I just slapped "Too SLow, Too Bad" on the tailgate and installed comfy seats to make the slow lane less arduous.
 
My 92 4Runner motor: 3vze, Tranny: R150F Auto 5 speed, T-case: VF1A (motor, tranny, t-case all stock, and stock axles with 4.30 gears.
 
Okay, well, the 3VZ 3.0 is nicknamed the "3.slow" for a reason, and that's at least part of your problem, but headers could help minutely.
do you have the R151F manual, or an auto? (A340?? not up to date on the production codes for autos)
If it is an auto, then that is another factor of the gutless.
There isn't much that can be done affordably, a "rubbber overdrive" can help a bit, headers or a tune intake can help here and there, but I think that recognizing Toyota trucks are neither fast or economical on their mileage, and coming to terms with it is really it. Investing in mods for incremental improvements of your fuel economy or top speed will never offer a solid return, but backing off the accelerator, and finding things to enjoy while in the slow lane will make your life a little easier.
 
Interesting facts:
3VZE: 3-liters, 150 HP, 50 ponies per liter.
5VZ-FE: 3.4 liters, 183 HP, 54 Ponies per liter.
22RE: 2.4 liters, 105 HP, 43.75 ponies per liter.
22R: 2.4 Liters, 97 HP, 40.41 Ponies per liter.
3RZ: 2.7 Liters, 150 HP, 55.5 ponies per liter
It's interesting how close together these engines are, and for the incrimental differences between I4 and V6 power versus the colossal differences in fuel economy makes for a convincing argument for an I4, especially when the 2.7 liter 3RZ Produces more ponies per liter than the VZ engines.

Edit:
Just for the heck of it:
2F: 4.2 liters, 135 HP, 32.14 ponies per liter, and that sound only a timing-gear driven motor can make.
 
Last edited:
If 29" tires were stock, going back to this smaller diameter would make some difference in your power. LC Engineering sells a header and exhaust system that would add a bit too, though it could be loud. Basically, there's not a whole lot you can do for the truck performance wise. I wouldn't bother. For the rear springs, if you go with a lift, you'll then need to lift the front. Instead, I'd go with these replacement springs, which are reputed to hold up better-especially with a load.

MOOG REAR COIL SPRINGS
1990 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5 6 CYL 3.0L
Location: Rear
Quantity Sold: Set of 2
Part #: MCCC255
Fit Note: Truck


Availability: In Stock
MOOG CARGO-COIL SPRINGS, SET OF 2 -- Variable-rate springs; Made from heat treated alloy steel for better response and guaranteed resistance to sagging; Built to restore OE handling, ride height, and body sway; Equipped with protective urethane tube to prevent metal on metal clash of the springs; This set of high quality, OE replacement coil springs changes resistance when compressing and becomes progressively stiffer as the load increases.
 
Learn from my mistakes...

Mak92-4RnR's 1992 4Runner Build-Up Thread - YotaTech Forums

If you're looking to daily drive the 4runner but keep it road worthy... my truck is probably the perfect example. Go ahead and read my built thread. a lot has been done and spent to this truck. Honestly, If i were you. the first mods I would do if i could start over again is 4.88s, 33x10.50s and aussie lockers. Then armor, ( sliders, bumpers, skids ) and then from then on its given on pretty much what you want to do with the truck... If you have the money and knowledge to SAS your truck, thats also a good option. a Low leafed SAS can be easily achieved using OME 2" leaf springs.

Never do headers, or an intake on the 3.0. Leave it stock, it'll never be anything more or less than a gutless wonder. Save all and everything you can to drop a 3.4 in place of it. You'll thank me later.

I've done headers, i've done the intake. and honestly, I was a fxxxing idiot to not save that bread to fork it towards a 3.0. My truck blew a headgasket roughly 8k miles ago even with headers on it. its a lost cause, and a ticking time bomb.

If you go with headers, expect nothing more than a sound difference, and a faster power band. I was so sick of headers, that i literally went back to stock and sold the headers to make back some of the money i spent on them. So my advice? dont do it.

Go with coil spacers. Dont get the moog springs, they sag eventually anyway. I have a 200lb bumper on the back of my truck with stock springs and 2" 4crawler spacers. and my truck still sits high in the back ( given that i have a lot of weight up front as well )
 
I can't believe you guys didn't pick up on this...

The FIRST thing you should buy is a set of decent jack stands, and NEVER EVER use a concrete block for a vehicle support again. And never work on a vehicle that is being held up with a floor jack, either.

Yikes...
 
do you have an auto or a manual tranns?!?!

If you have an auto, one simple thing to do is change the trannsfer case or the whole tranny out to a diferent auto model, the biggest problem with the 3vz is that the auto tranns and tcase are married in such a way that the tcase is shifted hydrolicly, so its like pushing through two tranny's all the time.

second thing you could do that would help is get manual locking hubs.

and of course, the best plan of action, drop the 3. Slow and get a 3.4 with auto to replace your existing slush box
 
We have a 2 ton jack stand under the frame holding it. The jack was to raise and lower the suspension to remove the axle and the caliper is sitting on top of the brick. I made sure not to play the stupid card on this project even though it may look like my set up is scary.
 
KLF said:
I can't believe you guys didn't pick up on this...

The FIRST thing you should buy is a set of decent jack stands, and NEVER EVER use a concrete block for a vehicle support again. And never work on a vehicle that is being held up with a floor jack, either.

Yikes...
Click to expand...

I see a jack and an unused jackstand. Likely it's just the lower, unatached control arm being held up by the cinderblock (hopefully) since if you do the shaft, cv, etc all at the same time you need the lower arm held up. Got no straps, use a block, it isn't necessarily holding the whole 2000lbs+ of the front end (hopefully). Not that you don't have a point, it's just all of us were in our 20's once upon a time, and some made the same mistakes in spite of being told not to (I was an exception, grew up wrenching so I got to see someone almost lose a leg..LOL.)

[Edit]Saw the O/P pointed almost exactly that out in post #13 above.

As far as everyone else's advice, make your own decisions. Me, I like the gains I got w/ my header and R150 swap as well as my 4.56's and 31's. Yeah, I'd love to do a 3.4 swap, but then again that's just me since you can also get 3rd Gens w/ Auto's and the 3.4 for less than $7k these days. My build slideshow's in my sigline below. :steer:
 
Last edited:
Guys, we all as a group need to figure out a more appropriate way to do two things here..

~Welcome people into the forum despite what rig they have.

~Realize that while the 3.0 has it's faults, it is by no means to bash on it. It is prone to issues, that said Lil'Bro's went over 245k before the headgasket even was an issue. In the case above as well as mine realize the possibility of having altered the factory setups, messing with driving harder and faster on the freeways, etc. than people used to (at the time 55 was the speed limit, not 70 **Both Mike and I are in California) and put on a system that while flowing better ties-in any header and head movement b/c Downey and Thorley don't have a flex pipe as a part of the system likely causing things to happen faster than normal. Don't mess w/ Toyota Spec, all T-Ten techs learn that bit the first day and it's still true to this day. :D

In my case I simply caught the issue early on and paid $1600 on parts and work to fix it and it's been fine ever since. Yeah, I get 15/17mph, and drive on our lovely freeway system, so what. It's gutless when loaded up, (heck, who puts 700lbs worth of gear back there like I do anyhow?? ;) ) etc. but it still does almost all I can ask of it.

Note, the proposed 3.4 swap if you run true numbers still works to about $5,500 to perform (factor in either paid or your own labor here). I've now built as well as assisted with a combined 4 of these rigs in all or most stages so there isn't much that will surprise me.

Like I said, it's your rig, do what you want with it (within measure of course) and let us know if you have something you can't find an answer to first via the Tech FAQ's (Frequently Asked Questions) since we all (Wink-Wink, Chuckle-Chuckle) actually read the part of the sign-up that said to search first because we never faced this ourselves..LOL.


So, in spite of all the above, welcome to the forum. Stick around, have some fun. You'll find there's a great group of (Cough-Cough, Wink-Wink, highly motivated in nature and opinionated) members who are more than happy to share experiences, advise, and humor.

~Sorry if I sound like I am insulting my friends here, I am not, we all just get a little ahead of ourselves sometimes I think.
 
Guess I should chime in, he needs a solid axle swap, gears and 40's. If you need any help I'm just 10ft away 40 hours a week...
 
Just for s***s and giggles , whos the manufacture of these jack stands?
montourp said:
We have a 2 ton jack stand under the frame holding it. The jack was to raise and lower the suspension to remove the axle and the caliper is sitting on top of the brick. I made sure not to play the stupid card on this project even though it may look like my set up is scary.
Click to expand...
 
Thats a nice looking 2nd gen (my favorite 4Runner!)
I think it would benefit nicely from a 3.4 swap.

Don't do anything to the 3.0 apart from general maintenance.
repeat DON'T DO ANYTHING to the 3.0 apart from general maintenance.
Skip the general maintenance and that will accelerate the timeframe for a 3.4 swap. ;)

PS. I rebuilt a 3.0 using all OEM (where possible) and top quality aftermarket (where necessary) engine parts to build an engine I expected to reach 300k miles... The motor lasted 50k miles...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom