2L'-TE BULLETPROOFED. 1,200F EGT's

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CUSTOM THROTTLE BODY INLET & CHAMPAGNE BOTTLE CORK PLUG
CUSTOM THROTTLE BODY INLET & CHAMPAGNE CORK PLUG.webp

ROTATED TURBO HOUSING
ROTATED TURBO HOUSING.webp

INTERNALLY & EXTERNALLY THERMAL EXCHANGE COATED INTERCOOLER
INTERNALLY & EXTERNALLY COATED INTERCOOLER 1.webp
INTERNALLY & EXTERNALLY THERMAL COATED INTERCOOLER 2.webp
 
Nice work on all this.

The 2LTE new makes 96hp and 163tq stock. I would like to see you put that on a dyno for sure to see what you've gained. Have you made any fuel adjustments? I can't imagine you are at 160-170hp now by just ceramic coating turbo, adding intercooler and removing EGR stuff and exhaust...thats a 77% increase@! of course I've been wrong once before. :D I'm not dogging you, I think this is cool to push this and see what you can do with this much maligned engine.

Colorado thin air and mountain passes are a good test, you find out real quick how much HP and TQ you DON'T have :rofl:

I also found an old post where you said your EGT is POST-TURBO. If you are running 1250 post turbo you are WAAAY too hot I think.
 
Lzfrm.. thanks for your comments... got it up over 1200f for a few minutes... I'll have to download my computer real time data logs.. today I couldn't get past 1,100f no matter how hard I pushed it..
As far as hp... I'm looking at performance data at sea level... where I went up a 7% grade 3 miles long without the 3,000 lb trailer... with my 33x12.5 mudders.. accelerated till I backed off at 3,000 rpm (over 80 mph).. boost was between 14.5 at the start & dropped to 12 psi when I backed off near the top..with egt's lowering from 965 at the bottom to 890 when I backed off... I'm going to add a GPS input to my stand alone so my plot puts from my computer tracking software will clearly show what I'm saying...
Btw.. it's not just the turbo... the gas flow analysis software never lies... I also will be adding a 2nd egt sensor at the exhaust outlet.. it's not the egt which is important it's how much energy the complete system loses from combustion to exhaust outlet... as gas contracts as it cools.. the hotter the exhaust stream at the outlet the higher the thermal efficiency... 1,200 egt's are completly acceptable.. calculating a 50 degree drop from combustion chamber at 21:1 compression ratio will reach 1,250 - 1,300f under load..
The stock OEM system is an energy hog.. still the same combustion chamber temps.. but the exhaust outlet at the rear bumper drops to maybe 500-550f !!!
ergo 160-170 hp (at sea level).. as mentioned in my posts I am working on the phase II mods.. I was going to shoot for 200-220 hp & 275ftlbs torque.. but now I want 250gp & 300ftlbs torque.. I'm going to make a gladiator so that V8 diesels only see my barn doors..
Your replies motivate me to rethink & redesign.. thanks so much
Cheers
 
Nice work you've done to your 2LTE :clap: I really like the ceramic coated parts!

CUSTOM THROTTLE BODY INLET & CHAMPAGNE BOTTLE CORK PLUGView attachment 1967197
ROTATED TURBO HOUSING
View attachment 1967206
INTERNALLY & EXTERNALLY THERMAL EXCHANGE COATED INTERCOOLER
View attachment 1967209View attachment 1967210

I saw this on another thread and also commented about it but maybe you haven't seen it....
Is the red pipe your turbo oil return line ? If so, this will kill your turbo seals as this will create a huge restriction. Turbo oil return lines should always be gravity drained and as free flowing as possible. If you need to rotate the turbo to accommodate your setup you could just rotate the compressor housing but retain the core's factory orientation.
 
Lzfrm.. thanks for your comments... got it up over 1200f for a few minutes... I'll have to download my computer real time data logs.. today I couldn't get past 1,100f no matter how hard I pushed it..
As far as hp... I'm looking at performance data at sea level... where I went up a 7% grade 3 miles long without the 3,000 lb trailer... with my 33x12.5 mudders.. accelerated till I backed off at 3,000 rpm (over 80 mph).. boost was between 14.5 at the start & dropped to 12 psi when I backed off near the top..with egt's lowering from 965 at the bottom to 890 when I backed off... I'm going to add a GPS input to my stand alone so my plot puts from my computer tracking software will clearly show what I'm saying...
Btw.. it's not just the turbo... the gas flow analysis software never lies... I also will be adding a 2nd egt sensor at the exhaust outlet.. it's not the egt which is important it's how much energy the complete system loses from combustion to exhaust outlet... as gas contracts as it cools.. the hotter the exhaust stream at the outlet the higher the thermal efficiency... 1,200 egt's are completly acceptable.. calculating a 50 degree drop from combustion chamber at 21:1 compression ratio will reach 1,250 - 1,300f under load..
The stock OEM system is an energy hog.. still the same combustion chamber temps.. but the exhaust outlet at the rear bumper drops to maybe 500-550f !!!
ergo 160-170 hp (at sea level).. as mentioned in my posts I am working on the phase II mods.. I was going to shoot for 200-220 hp & 275ftlbs torque.. but now I want 250gp & 300ftlbs torque.. I'm going to make a gladiator so that V8 diesels only see my barn doors..
Your replies motivate me to rethink & redesign.. thanks so much
Cheers


Good work. I'm impressed a 2LT is pushing that hard up a 7% grade, but the 14.5 psi and sea level sure help. 5280' in elevation definitely makes a difference.

Personally, I still think if you are going through all this datalogging, all this performance enhancing, I would definitely put an EGT sensor PRE-Turbo to get the best idea. Heck even run 1 pre and post will give you tons of data on how much temp drop there is after the turbo. Yes, the hotter the higher thermal efficiency, but I wouldn't want to fly too close to the sun. You are measuring temps that are traveling down an exhaust pipe, obviously the closer you get to the cylinder, the hotter it will be. If you are trying to go 250hp thats probably going to take a bigger turbo and some tuning on the EFI part.

I don't think I have to tell you, but on older engines not designed for that power, the more HP you put to them, the less reliable they become.

I'll be watching, fun project for sure!
 
Good work. I'm impressed a 2LT is pushing that hard up a 7% grade, but the 14.5 psi and sea level sure help. 5280' in elevation definitely makes a difference.

Personally, I still think if you are going through all this datalogging, all this performance enhancing, I would definitely put an EGT sensor PRE-Turbo to get the best idea. Heck even run 1 pre and post will give you tons of data on how much temp drop there is after the turbo. Yes, the hotter the higher thermal efficiency, but I wouldn't want to fly too close to the sun. You are measuring temps that are traveling down an exhaust pipe, obviously the closer you get to the cylinder, the hotter it will be. If you are trying to go 250hp thats probably going to take a bigger turbo and some tuning on the EFI part.

I don't think I have to tell you, but on older engines not designed for that power, the more HP you put to them, the less reliable they become.

I'll be watching, fun project for sure!

He is infact reading pre-turbo. His egt probe is mounted in the egr blanking plate, but I don't know if he's using a long probe to get his reading just before the turbo (collective value for all 4 cylinders) or if he's just reading for cylinder no.4.
 
He is infact reading pre-turbo. His egt probe is mounted in the egr blanking plate, but I don't know if he's using a long probe to get his reading just before the turbo (collective value for all 4 cylinders) or if he's just reading for cylinder no.4.

Now I'm not really familiar with the EGR systems on 2LTE's but
He stated in a post this:

EGT Temps are after turbo.. fabricated 2 egr blanking plates.. 1 aluminum & 1 steel..with 1/8" npt taps.. so new EMS secondary boost sensor is in the intake manifold downstream of the throttle body


Are you saying the EGR blanking plates are pre turbo?
 
Now I'm not really familiar with the EGR systems on 2LTE's but
He stated in a post this:

EGT Temps are after turbo.. fabricated 2 egr blanking plates.. 1 aluminum & 1 steel..with 1/8" npt taps.. so new EMS secondary boost sensor is in the intake manifold downstream of the throttle body


Are you saying the EGR blanking plates are pre turbo?

Yes, its on one end of the exhaust manifold, just after port no.4
 
Hi all.. thanks for all your values comments.. yes the egr blanking plate & sensor q qs q are qare upstream of the turbo.. the statement of obtaining 250hp is a real one.. but for longevity power must be selectively used..
So I started rethinking the complete pressurized feed system... last year I was ready to pull the trigger on an aisin previa supercharger.. it's kinda neat as it comes with an a/c type electric clutch.. with this ratified air & super low boost pressures I will run the 2 compressors in series.. with the boost cycle being 1st thru the rotary screw blower.. with this feeding the turbo.. perhaps a 2nd intercooler between the 2 compressors
 
Nice work you've done to your 2LTE :clap: I really like the ceramic coated parts!



I saw this on another thread and also commented about it but maybe you haven't seen it....
Is the red pipe your turbo oil return line ? If so, this will kill your turbo seals as this will create a huge restriction. Turbo oil return lines should always be gravity drained and as free flowing as possible. If you need to rotate the turbo to accommodate your setup you could just rotate the compressor housing but retain the core's factory orientation.
Yes.. the red hose is the low pressure oil return line.. direct to crankcase above oilpan.. the turbo is split by the mating joint.. the cooling water & oil in/out are all part of the same housing as the compressor..
20190503_155225.webp

Actually the seal loop you see in the red hose was purposely done to test a constant oil / water bath for the turbo & prevent dry start ups... if after testing it proves better to revert to free draining systems it's an easy mod..
Thanks for your feedback..
Cheers
 
Hi all.. thanks for all your values comments.. yes the egr blanking plate & sensor q qs q are qare upstream of the turbo.. the statement of obtaining 250hp is a real one.. but for longevity power must be selectively used..
So I started rethinking the complete pressurized feed system... last year I was ready to pull the trigger on an aisin previa supercharger.. it's kinda neat as it comes with an a/c type electric clutch.. with this ratified air & super low boost pressures I will run the 2 compressors in series.. with the boost cycle being 1st thru the rotary screw blower.. with this feeding the turbo.. perhaps a 2nd intercooler between the 2 compressors


I had a diesel that was super and turbo charged. Some mods similar to yours and some not. Completely different engine.

Ceramic goes a long ways. I had lots of it on the build. Ported and polished the head. 7-stage external oil pump, run off a custom housing and gears. Both top mount and front mount I/C. Top mount external oil cooler. Higher pop pressure on injectors. The list of mods and upgrades on the build were long. Unbelievable results.

You probably would have liked it a lot, from reading your posts it was right up your alley.

I have heard many people argue for and against super charging on top of turbo. I can say, I had one and it was super awesome.

Cheers
 
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