2H turbo manifold
- Thread starter ozcrusier
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Cleaning up the intake runners from casting will have some bennifit. Smoothing transitions is always a good thing, especially the exhaust bowl. Don't worry about uneven air intake to each cylinder from porting like gas engines. Diesels are basically the opposite. The runners that get more air run cool. #1 and 6 usually starve and run hotter. Put your egt probe close to them and it will give you an idea of the hottest cylinder rather than a combo of them all. I guess there are good reasons to put it at the main collector, but the end cylinders are always more at risk egt wise.
- Thread starter
- #43
The EVO 8 manifold has two 02 sensors 1 and 4. Thanks for the tips on cleaning up the exhaust bowls how important are the twin scroll exhaust runners on the adapter I'm making should I try and blend everything smooth or can I leave steps between the two flange plates.
- Thread starter
- #44
I went out to do the compression test to and the starter motor was dead after checking a few thing's over I glowed the engine and put a screwdriver across the starter and fired her up. The starter is dead with the key no solenoid clunk no nothing so I checked the manual and forum today so I'm thinking aloud it can only be a few things ignition, starter relay, fusible link. I also done some digging on the internet and found there could also be a drop in the voltage over the ignition, old wiring and connections and the fix is to wire a 40 amp relay close to the starter.
Anyone have any ideas on what to check please let me know.
Anyone have any ideas on what to check please let me know.
Sorry, no advice on the starter I'm afraid. As far as leaving steps in your adaptor, try and avoid it if you can. If your going from a larger opening to a smaller and the exhaust has to jump up an abrupt step that is the worst. Going from smaller to larger is not good, but no where near as bad, I wouldn't go so far as to say if it were done incorrectly it won't work, but abrupt changes in diameter and steps are some of the worst features possible in your exhaust system, far greater than turns or even pipe diameter.
- Thread starter
- #46
Gerg
I wasn't sure how much difference it would make on a turbo engine.
I spent two days with the multimeter testing and I must admit it had me stumped because everything was testing fine. I found after a lot off head scratching the one of the female plugs into the relay was pushed back hardly making a contact. This must have been a intermediate problem for years as both rubber covers on the starter motor wiring where pushed back giving access for the screwdriver for sparky starts.
All fixed apart from the whole dash pulled out.
I wasn't sure how much difference it would make on a turbo engine.
I spent two days with the multimeter testing and I must admit it had me stumped because everything was testing fine. I found after a lot off head scratching the one of the female plugs into the relay was pushed back hardly making a contact. This must have been a intermediate problem for years as both rubber covers on the starter motor wiring where pushed back giving access for the screwdriver for sparky starts.
All fixed apart from the whole dash pulled out.
- Thread starter
- #47
Mk 2 version is getting the turbo closer to the right position on the side of the engine as I discovered I don't have a lot of room to play with. I might have to make a few of these to get the turbo in the right position before I start making the real turbo adapter.
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........."Mk 2 version is getting the turbo closer to the right position on the side of the engine as I discovered I don't have a lot of room to play with" ............
It is indeed a tight fit especially if you have A/C lines to deal with.
It is indeed a tight fit especially if you have A/C lines to deal with.
And there is always a cartoon of Fosters at the end of the project.AC and the tdo5 is water cooled as well as oil so it's not going to be easy but nothing ever is in my life. I love the challenge
That's the spirit. It's very important to stay properly hydrated.I have a feeling there will be more then one carton consumed with this project.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Good project! I loved my 2H with td04 turbo (if I remember correctly) and ran smooth and cold with ic.
I would probably add a egt probe to both pre turbo manifold sides.
Maybe put them into the adapter you're making, or wherever pre turbo where the probes are easily serviced.
I would probably add a egt probe to both pre turbo manifold sides.
Maybe put them into the adapter you're making, or wherever pre turbo where the probes are easily serviced.
What I've done the past is remove your hood and suspend your turbo in the engine bay exactly as yould like it to be. I use an overhead hoist, but a 2x4 or anything like it as long as it's stable and gives you a bit of room to weld. You can then attach the t3 flange and the td05 flange and it will give you an exact idea of the dimentions for the adaptor. I then use some bent rod welded to each flange so as to keep the spacing exactly as I want it, but so the the stabilizing rods allow me enough space to begin welding sections of steel in between the flanges creating the exhaust runners. After a substantial amount of runner is in place to maintain the alignment, I cut off the stabilizing rods to make extra room. Hard to explain without pics sorry, but it will save you a lot of trial and error vs doing a mock up paper one, and let's you being building the keeper. I build all of my manifolds this way on a dead engine on a stand and have offsets for alternators and firewall and all of the objects I use to create a "box" to build in so to speak. The final results are always predictable unless you get some warpage. I usually tac all my builds together and then heat it all uniformly in my BBQ and weld it completely. I don't usually get much warpage at all this way. Welding it cold had caused me a lot of grief as I often had to cut and rewelded some sections to relieve stress. Hope that helps.
g
Sorry, forgot to mention that once you tac the bent stabilizing rods onto the flanges you remove it from the engine bay the begin building the runners. Wouldn't be easy to build it in the bay. If the rods are welded well enough, they should maintain the proper orientation.
g
Sorry, forgot to mention that once you tac the bent stabilizing rods onto the flanges you remove it from the engine bay the begin building the runners. Wouldn't be easy to build it in the bay. If the rods are welded well enough, they should maintain the proper orientation.
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- Thread starter
- #55
I copied the original manifold adaptor hopping that's its going to be close with the right angle for the turbo I need to strip the extractors off my 2h and try a dry run and adjust from there. If it goes to sh.t I will try your method Gerg as it sounds like the way to go
That looks pretty darn close. Do lots of fitting when you tac the real one together before you final weld it cus it looks pretty tight in there. Would suck if it was out a fraction of an inch and you have to chop it all up and redo it. For yiur runners I'd do each of them in two pieces as you can better see internally how it will flow and clean it up as oppose to a solid tube right off the bat. Look like yould have to cut one half into a wedge to get the taper, but the other could be straightish. Good work.
- Thread starter
- #57
Gerg
The cardboard is cut in 3 sections a side with a center piece so if all goes well when I pull the paper apart I will have 7 templates for the plate if not no big loss it will be binned. There is a bit of room under the hj75 bonnet as the td05 will be hanging towards the firewall and looks like it was made to go in there. The compression test has been put back a week so I can have a injector modified to use in the test.
Cheers for all the advice guys.
Edit
I pulled the pic of my car must keep on track and added the Mitsubishi tdo5 manifold compared to mine. Notice how the sensors are mounted in between both 1-4 and 2-3. Each side is drilled like the photo. Weird location and bugger all sensing through those tiny drilled ports.
The cardboard is cut in 3 sections a side with a center piece so if all goes well when I pull the paper apart I will have 7 templates for the plate if not no big loss it will be binned. There is a bit of room under the hj75 bonnet as the td05 will be hanging towards the firewall and looks like it was made to go in there. The compression test has been put back a week so I can have a injector modified to use in the test.
Cheers for all the advice guys.
Edit
I pulled the pic of my car must keep on track and added the Mitsubishi tdo5 manifold compared to mine. Notice how the sensors are mounted in between both 1-4 and 2-3. Each side is drilled like the photo. Weird location and bugger all sensing through those tiny drilled ports.
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- Thread starter
- #58
While I'm building the td5-t3 adapter obviously It will need to be strong but will It still need extra support to hold everything regarding turbo exhaust system, Intake filters pipe + The engine shaking. I'm guessing I will have to mount very strong supports from the engine block to the turbo housing both sides.
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Nice numbers. I've braced turbos in the past and others not. never regretted bracing though. Cus it just complements the manifold and flange and doesn't have to hold all ofthe weight itself, it doesn't have to be crazy strong. I hang 2 turbos off my home brew manifold and just braced it with a piece of 1/8 X 1/2 inch flat bar. Worked well. No cracks in the manifold 5 yrs later.
