2h rebuild kits? Camshafts? Sleeves?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

S

sodafeld1

Joined
Mar 10, 2019
Threads
182
Messages
1,747
Location
melbourne, Oz
Fairly steep learning curve I am on stripping down an unknown 2h engine besides being neglected for 345000km.
After a magmaflux test, I would consider the 'r' word.
The lifters, rods and rockers, valves don't look too bad besides one rocker which has wear which can be felt by touch.

Putting the effort in makes one feel it is worth doing once properly, for a lifetime. There are a whole heap of kits out there, but noordeman keeps coming up to have the best stuff. Ceramic heads and 30% more power camshafts. Can spend a lot of money. Their kit is twice the price though, head bolts included which is good.

Also, wouldn't it be better to add sleeves to a parent bore? More money again.
For the kit, sleeves and cam I am looking at $4k...just for the pieces.

I put pacemaker extractors with 2 1/2 pipes on my good 2h and love it. This would be complemented with the noordeman camshaft.
Any thoughts of kits? Anyone running the noordeman stuff? for how long?
Met a guy with a 2h the other day with over 600000km, only replaced the clutch.
Not really interested in turbo as I prefer longevity.
 
I have not heard of noordeman.

I have not been disappointed with

www.engineaustralia.com.au

Welcome to Engine Australia | Aftermarket Diesel Engine Parts

Engine Australia supplies premium quality Aftermarket and O.E. engine parts for most Japanese, American, British and European diesel engines.
www.engineaustralia.com.au

I would not add sleeves if it did not come that way from the factory. I would not change cam. Keep it OEM spec.

you want longevity, do it right. Per factory. 600k km engine is your proof.

I always add zinc additive as part of my oil change. Modern oils have less of it and it is needed in these old birds.
 
Lucas. At big box stores
 
I'd call 30% power increase from a camshaft optimistic at best on an engine like a 2H.

Noorderman and Engine Australia have a good reputation and I'd use their stuff. For what it's worth, we supply rebuild kits for the 2H as well.
 
I was using zinc ad in the penrite range in oz for about 50000km. Bit 'exy', hard to get bulk or expensive. But since I installed my ultra fine secondary bypass oil filter, the manufacturer of that believed more than likely that the filter would filter out the zinc. So now I just get the best value mineral bulk and change very often. delo or rx, My oil never goes thick and black in the good 2h. I reckon excess carbon in the oil would be one of the worst.

Story of the oil bypass filter was the germans were wanting to travel from europe to south america in submarines and eliminate oil change downtime after wwii.

Read a redline oil article once, if they want to clean the insides of an engine they would do 3 oil changes in an hour, No additives.
Bit hard to tell if the zinc would be better than fresh clean fresh mineral oil, you can buy it as a straight additive too, bit 'exy', it is slippery stuff, plenty folks recommend it.
Even looked into how to make it! beyond me.

I have also read that most of the longest lasting diesel engines simply had frequent oil changes with regular old fashioned mineral. Usually engines which were kept warm, drove moderately over long distances such as long haul warning guides in front of over sized trucks, or taxis.
The only way I could tell if my 2h is getting worn without zinc but with very frequent oil changes is pulling it apart,. But she is so happy and close to clean burning, that shall not happen for awhile as she has only done 260000km. Maybe when I finish rebuilding the dirty one.

There is many opinions about oil and additives. There are more additives than I care to count. The only additive I use is a valve saver flashlube for fuel . It is economical, it kind of makes me feel virtuous and saintly, at least in my mind.

I couldn't justify the cost of zinc additives if I filtered it out, do I want zinc or clean oil? Pretty happy regular observation after driving 1000km after an oil change and the oil still looks clean.
 
AussieHJCruza said:
I'd call 30% power increase from a camshaft optimistic at best on an engine like a 2H.

Noorderman and Engine Australia have a good reputation and I'd use their stuff. For what it's worth, we supply rebuild kits for the 2H as well.
Click to expand...
Just checking your website out, bit of diversion, but those high output alternators (probably baxters?) I got one but I can't find spare internal regulators for them..
 
sodafeld1 said:
Just checking your website out, bit of diversion, but those high output alternators (probably baxters?) I got one but I can't find spare internal regulators for them..
Click to expand...
PM incoming on the alternator.
 
sodafeld1 said:
I was using zinc ad in the penrite range in oz for about 50000km. Bit 'exy', hard to get bulk or expensive. But since I installed my ultra fine secondary bypass oil filter, the manufacturer of that believed more than likely that the filter would filter out the zinc. So now I just get the best value mineral bulk and change very often. delo or rx, My oil never goes thick and black in the good 2h. I reckon excess carbon in the oil would be one of the worst.

Story of the oil bypass filter was the germans were wanting to travel from europe to south america in submarines and eliminate oil change downtime after wwii.

Read a redline oil article once, if they want to clean the insides of an engine they would do 3 oil changes in an hour, No additives.
Bit hard to tell if the zinc would be better than fresh clean fresh mineral oil, you can buy it as a straight additive too, bit 'exy', it is slippery stuff, plenty folks recommend it.
Even looked into how to make it! beyond me.

I have also read that most of the longest lasting diesel engines simply had frequent oil changes with regular old fashioned mineral. Usually engines which were kept warm, drove moderately over long distances such as long haul warning guides in front of over sized trucks, or taxis.
The only way I could tell if my 2h is getting worn without zinc but with very frequent oil changes is pulling it apart,. But she is so happy and close to clean burning, that shall not happen for awhile as she has only done 260000km. Maybe when I finish rebuilding the dirty one.

There is many opinions about oil and additives. There are more additives than I care to count. The only additive I use is a valve saver flashlube for fuel . It is economical, it kind of makes me feel virtuous and saintly, at least in my mind.

I couldn't justify the cost of zinc additives if I filtered it out, do I want zinc or clean oil? Pretty happy regular observation after driving 1000km after an oil change and the oil still looks clean.
Click to expand...
having said all that, if I could source either a reasonably priced mineral with zinc or zinc ad , combined with the oil bypass it would the best engine oil regime. Maybe would have to change the ultra filters even more, don't know.
 
sodafeld1 said:
Thanks man. I have to agree 30% more from a cam shaft sounds too good..but even 10-15% more power for a 2h would be nice..
Click to expand...
keep thinking of this noordeman camshaft, if it does what they say, everyone with a 2h would get one when rebuilding. For the price of a new casting, it compares favourably to a regrind of the old. If it did not decrease longevity on bearings or engine life. I don't facebook so hard for me to investigate further. Very brave for a dealer to come to a forum table.
 
sodafeld1 said:
keep thinking of this noordeman camshaft, if it does what they say, everyone with a 2h would get one when rebuilding. For the price of a new casting, it compares favourably to a regrind of the old. If it did not decrease longevity on bearings or engine life. I don't facebook so hard for me to investigate further. Very brave for a dealer to come to a forum table.
Click to expand...
I did try to get some more details from Noordeman but wasn't successful. I'd love to know what can be done within the constraints of the OE valvetrain componentry, cylinder head etc to move enough air through the engine to facilitate a 30% power gain.
 
good to hear your questions to them. Yes some things changed from oem can lead to issues somewhere else. Little improvements things like 3xfiner bearing nuts, extractors, higher amp alt, oil bypass filter are good improvements without oem compromise.
Hope they get back to you, that would be way cool.
 
sodafeld1 said:
good to hear your questions to them. Yes some things changed from oem can lead to issues somewhere else. Little improvements things like 3xfiner bearing nuts, extractors, higher amp alt, oil bypass filter are good improvements without oem compromise.
Hope they get back to you, that would be way cool.
Click to expand...
I asked them months ago, but they seem to keep their cards close to their chest. We sell other brand parts so that might be something to do with it.
 
AussieHJCruza said:
I asked them months ago, but they seem to keep their cards close to their chest. We sell other brand parts so that might be something to do with it.
Click to expand...
yeah secrets make you feel like two fish clapping voodoo. They are detailed with the spec measurement though. Surprised no one with one has replied on the forum about the noordeman cam, maybe in time.

coldtaco said:
Port and polish would probably help a little bit for more power
Click to expand...


Port and polish would make only a little difference I think, the gasket comes to a close fit to the exit manifold. Smoothing the factory casting out would be a bit of love it could do with. I'll check the intake ports when I finish pulling the valves. Body and frame during daylight, not as interesting tho..
 
and this camshaft article talks about zinc running on flat tappets which the 2h has..https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2010/10/diesel-performance-camshafts-lifters-and-valvetrain/
hmm shall have to go back to zinc after all
 
well got my injector pump rebuilt from a specialist diesel mechanic,beautiful. knows his stuff backwards, thinks the 2h and 3b are the best engines to last forever. He reckons zddp is bs, same as valve saver fuel additive, just use a good brand diesel mineral, change regular. His 2million dollar injection pump tester is a testament to his commitment and knowledge.
It is confusing , there is so many products in which we are told we need, usually from folks who directly or indirectly benefit from selling the stuff. We can google anything we want to believe.
zddp in engine oil works out 30% more in price, the frequency of how often I change oil makes zddp expensive. I shall use it when on special.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

BigJoeSea
Rebuild questions for 1FZ-FE
Replies
10
Views
584
BigJoeSea
BigJoeSea
J
HJ75 2h engine control unit
Replies
1
Views
356
coldtaco
coldtaco
P
1KZ-TE fuel injection pump rebuild or buy non OEM?
Replies
6
Views
786
preveng
P
fullthrottle
Wheel bearing and seal kits
Replies
4
Views
704
sodafeld1
S

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom