2H Not Charging... (1 Viewer)

[GregFrench]

Batteries keep going dead. Where do I start? Battery is at 11.5v. Line going to alternator reads the same. I disconnect the alternator line with the engine off and it reads 0v. Engine running I get between 12 and 19v depending on if the rpm's are up or not.

So..

Looks like the alternator is putting out voltage. Battery still does not seem to be charging. What should I check next? I have no idea what to look for on the voltage regulator. Should i look there next? Thanks.

 

[joel hj60]

Voltage regulator maybe.

Alt shouldn't be putting out 19v.

 

[marting]

12 or 24V system ?

You have tried a new battery?

 

[Tapage]

I would start with a multimeter .. measure it with alt ( engine running ) and without ..

 

[GregFrench]

Marting: 12v. New battery. Same thing happens as with the old one. Optima yellowtop.

Joel: What about the voltage regulator? As I stated in the OP, I don't know much about it. How do I check it to see if it is bad? The FSM just says "bend the tabs to adjust voltage" but it doesn't explain why or how.
Also...that is 19v when the battery and everything is disconnected at the alternator "B" terminal and the engine at 2-3k rpm and before the voltage regulator.

Tapage: Used a multimeter. Readings are listed in the OP. What else should I check?

 

[bigboss]

here is a question for ya greg well a few any way 1 petrol or deisel if deisel it may be that the glow plug s are staying on to long after start up 2 have you got a test light 3does the battery go flat over night or is it running then you turn it of but it wont start right away 4 how long after munually carghing the battery up and putting it back in the truck does the bateery go flat 5 how tight are the belts we could go on and on let us know those things first oh yes by diconnecting any part of the system will automatically lead you astray cus because it is in the connected system that the problem lay not the disconnected one

 

[bigboss]

hey greg just read some thing you say you diconnect the alt line and get 0 volts where did you disconect it from . the alt or the battery if the alt ,then you shou ld have +- 12 or battery voltage on the wiring side of the alt ,regardless of key on or off it dont matter i think this might be where we start looking mate

 

[1tontoy]

Did you check the alternator brushes? I would check those, first, if you haven't already. I was having the same issue. Replaced my brushes....$5 and 1 hour of work. My 'filter' light went out and the battery charged back up after some driving.

 

[GregFrench]

here is a question for ya greg well a few any way 1 petrol or deisel if deisel it may be that the glow plug s are staying on to long after start up 2 have you got a test light 3does the battery go flat over night or is it running then you turn it of but it wont start right away 4 how long after munually carghing the battery up and putting it back in the truck does the bateery go flat 5 how tight are the belts we could go on and on let us know those things first oh yes by diconnecting any part of the system will automatically lead you astray cus because it is in the connected system that the problem lay not the disconnected one

- 2h Diesel. Manual glow. Not the issue.
- No test light, but a multimeter
- Does not charge. Not really going flat overnight, but not charging up after it is started. Glow and start all day, battery power goes down and doesn't come back up. I need to put it on the charger overnight about every 2-3 days to stay ahead of teh power loss curve.
- Belt is good and tight. That was the first thing I checked.
- 0 volts at the alternator when the engine is off and the main line is disconnected. The line itself reads the same as the battery. When the engine is running, the alternator output is 13-19v depending on engine rpm's.

 

[1tontoy]

Did you check the brushes? Is your 'filter' light on (if there's one in your cruiser)?

 

[bigboss]

thanks for that info greg try this for me once you have answered 1tontoy take that alt wiring off again main feed wiring leave the battery connected and put you multimeter red on thr pos of the batt and the black wire on the end of the line to the alt on the dc volts measurement you should get 0 volts if there is a voltage there you might have a voltage dropp in that cable to the alt hey just a thought do you have a amp meter on the dash these give heaps of trouble when they get old.
greg does your truck have fuse link inline to the aly or just that white wire straight to alt b terminal

 

[Granite Grinder]

If the alternator is the same design as a 3B, and if I recall correctly, you don't need to take the alternator out to check/replace the brushes.
GG

 

[lostmarbles]

If the alternator is the same design as a 3B, and if I recall correctly, you don't need to take the alternator out to check/replace the brushes.
GG

Well that's certainly different to the alternator on my B engine.

I need to dismantle mine for both/either of those things:

 

[GregFrench]

Still haven't figured it out. Haven't had much time. Thanks Big Boss. I'll try that. I have been pulling fuses of things I think might be draining the battery for the past few weeks. Pull the fuse and drive like normal. If the battery goes dead, I know that wasn't it, then replace the fuse and pull a different one.

Here is something, though...I put the charger on it the other night, and noticed the needle bouncing a bit. Went out later, and the charger indicated it wasn't charging and the battery was still dead.

Disconnected it, and reconnected it (the charger) and went out the next morning and the battery was still dead.

Jumped it to get to work, and when I got home from work, hooked the charger up to battery again, but this time connected the (-) charge lead to the metal on the truck (brake resivior) instead of the (-) battery post. It charged right up.

Why would it charge better when connected to the (+) battery post and metal in the engine bay than it does when connected to the (+) batt line and (-) battery line. You think loose connection somewhere?

Thanks

 

[toomanymachines]

I would guess the voltage regulator. You should never get anything over the 14 or so volts. If it is that high it may also be that low. I had alot of trouble on one of my 3b's.. it was the third voltage regualtor that worked.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

To me it looks like you got a bad new battery.
cheers,
J

 

[gsprenge]

Did you check the brushes? Is your 'filter' light on (if there's one in your cruiser)?

Hey Mate, you may can help.
My Alternator is not charging.
Those Lamps are on.
And the Altn. Regulator seems to be wrong meassures as well!? Do you know some tips for me? Thx a lot

 

[gsprenge]

Did you check the brushes? Is your 'filter' light on (if there's one in your cruiser)?

Whats the thought if so? Lights are on?

 

[georgebj60]

Whats the thought if so? Lights are on?

When the charge light and filter light are on together, that can be a weak charge light relay. Often the lights will go out once you raise the RPM's a bit. On my HJ60 I have to rev the engine to about 1400 rpms to trip the relay which turns off the lights and starts charging the batteries.

 

[gsprenge]

When the charge light and filter light are on together, that can be a weak charge light relay. Often the lights will go out once you raise the RPM's a bit. On my HJ60 I have to rev the engine to about 1400 rpms to trip the relay which turns off the lights and starts charging the batteries.

Unfortun. Not the case. Even with rom up to 2ooo the rig dont charge
Here you can see my troubleshoot