Just an add on to the very helpful diaphragm replacement stuff here. Just replaced mine too, initial little test drive is more punch on uphill.
I spoke to a diesel mec who reckons one is at risk of encouraging air lock in the pump when fiddlin with it. Not sure if he wanted more business..it is a dark art where secrets are kept and earned. Be warned!
My pump was untouched since more than likely factory at 280k. It still had the twisty wire and yellow seal tamper indicator goop on the larger diaphragm housing screw joining to the fuel adjuster screw. I cut it.
I did two test runs on 2x spare 2h injector pumps on replacing the diaphragm out of the engine bay and off the engine, before doing it onboard the good troopy.
Each pump had a different amount of spring spacers from thin shims to fatter spacers. These, I imagine, would adjust the amount of tension of the spring against the diaphragm.
Seeming the tamper seal goop and twist wire is professionally joined to the fuel adjustment screw and to the diaphragm housing screw, I would assume they are related to each other and serviced at the same time if done by a pro diesel mechanic. Possibly shims re-calibrated for the diaphragm spring tension too, (however they calculate that?). Maybe dyno testing, exhaust measuring at differing revs, vacuum measuring I don't know.
Just taking note of this observation and drawing attention to it.
Onboard, it is a bit of a awkward job, requiring care and patience.
I went for the split pin, rather than the nuts, with a 30 degree hook needle tool levering the eyelet of the split pin against the copper diaphragm shaft.
The same tool for the washer.
Diaphragm slides off then out. Easy to get the new one on.
I used a small flexi tube small enough to re-install the washer and big enough to marry against the diaphragm holder arm. I could press the tube against the diaphragm shaft holder and then slide the washer on. Not wanting to drop anything in the pump.
Split pin is the trickiest, using a straight needle tool in the pin eyelet to insert into the diaphragm shaft holder, then a screw driver to bend the split pin tab forward. I had to use my cheap ebay borescope (good value for lots of jobs) to check it was bent over enough and not going to come loose. Small stainless r clips are not very easy to find, but probably better.
Very hard to see what you are doing, awkward working position, unless you take the wheel and front guard panels off, if the pump is onboard the engine.
I have some reservations that it is a simple replacement job of the diaphragm. Observing different sized spring shims and tamper seals connected to the fuel adjustment. They would all be interrelated I suspect for maximum fuel pump efficiency.
I replaced my diaphragm in a quest to return to 11-12km per liter I use to get, rather than the 8.5km/l I am getting now after lots of heavy hauling for the last 100k and over fiddlin with my 2h.
Leather gets soft, even softer, if maintained with neatsfoot. I have very minimal exhaust smoke or oil consumption, and could not see any tears in the old diaphragm, but it is very soft. Dry and clean, on the pump side of the diaphragm, which is good, just vacuum.
Shall report back if noticeable fuel consumption difference after another long heavy haul next week.
Even thinking of taking her to the diesel specialist I like, if I can't get better than 8.5km/l. Maybe, that is just the way it is and be happy with that.
Have to check intake manifold gaskets next..
I spoke to a diesel mec who reckons one is at risk of encouraging air lock in the pump when fiddlin with it. Not sure if he wanted more business..it is a dark art where secrets are kept and earned. Be warned!
My pump was untouched since more than likely factory at 280k. It still had the twisty wire and yellow seal tamper indicator goop on the larger diaphragm housing screw joining to the fuel adjuster screw. I cut it.
I did two test runs on 2x spare 2h injector pumps on replacing the diaphragm out of the engine bay and off the engine, before doing it onboard the good troopy.
Each pump had a different amount of spring spacers from thin shims to fatter spacers. These, I imagine, would adjust the amount of tension of the spring against the diaphragm.
Seeming the tamper seal goop and twist wire is professionally joined to the fuel adjustment screw and to the diaphragm housing screw, I would assume they are related to each other and serviced at the same time if done by a pro diesel mechanic. Possibly shims re-calibrated for the diaphragm spring tension too, (however they calculate that?). Maybe dyno testing, exhaust measuring at differing revs, vacuum measuring I don't know.
Just taking note of this observation and drawing attention to it.
Onboard, it is a bit of a awkward job, requiring care and patience.
I went for the split pin, rather than the nuts, with a 30 degree hook needle tool levering the eyelet of the split pin against the copper diaphragm shaft.
The same tool for the washer.
Diaphragm slides off then out. Easy to get the new one on.
I used a small flexi tube small enough to re-install the washer and big enough to marry against the diaphragm holder arm. I could press the tube against the diaphragm shaft holder and then slide the washer on. Not wanting to drop anything in the pump.
Split pin is the trickiest, using a straight needle tool in the pin eyelet to insert into the diaphragm shaft holder, then a screw driver to bend the split pin tab forward. I had to use my cheap ebay borescope (good value for lots of jobs) to check it was bent over enough and not going to come loose. Small stainless r clips are not very easy to find, but probably better.
Very hard to see what you are doing, awkward working position, unless you take the wheel and front guard panels off, if the pump is onboard the engine.
I have some reservations that it is a simple replacement job of the diaphragm. Observing different sized spring shims and tamper seals connected to the fuel adjustment. They would all be interrelated I suspect for maximum fuel pump efficiency.
I replaced my diaphragm in a quest to return to 11-12km per liter I use to get, rather than the 8.5km/l I am getting now after lots of heavy hauling for the last 100k and over fiddlin with my 2h.
Leather gets soft, even softer, if maintained with neatsfoot. I have very minimal exhaust smoke or oil consumption, and could not see any tears in the old diaphragm, but it is very soft. Dry and clean, on the pump side of the diaphragm, which is good, just vacuum.
Shall report back if noticeable fuel consumption difference after another long heavy haul next week.
Even thinking of taking her to the diesel specialist I like, if I can't get better than 8.5km/l. Maybe, that is just the way it is and be happy with that.
Have to check intake manifold gaskets next..
