2F wont start, Sitting a while.

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Yep, I have moved the oil pump slot with a screw driver. I am most concerned that the diaphram is hitting the oil filter, It must be off. I have to belive toyota did not mean for that to happen.
 
Easiest fix:

Someone with a 2F get the bb/white line in the window, pop the cap, shoot a digi, post it up...

given your "backfire thru the carb" occurrence, I'm gonna go with 180 out tho....
 
I think it is set properly now. Just turned in the wrong direction. When the BB comes in the window the rotors pointing toward #1 in the cap.

A photo would be awesome.

Off to NC for business tomorrow so I may be back on Thursday with some good news.
 
Remember a 4 stroke will pass the TDC mark 2 times every power cycle, 1X at the start of the intake, and once at compression, so you need to know where your valves are when you're setting the dizzy. Pull your plugs and feel #1 hole for the end of the compression stroke. That's the TDC you want. Also be careful with the starting fluid, an old-timer told me years ago just to use it for cold weather, that it fires so violently that it can crack top compression rings. Anyone else hear that about starting fluid? Or maybe it was true in 1927 but not today? He kinda scared me off it, but I've never had a problem starting with a dribble of gasoline (when everything is set up right!).
If you've had the dizzy off, and you're not abso-flippin-lutely sure it's engaged with the oil pump, you should do one of two things, depending on what you've got to work with. 1 if you've got a good oil pressure gauge, hook it up to where the oil pressure sender goes and when you do get the motor fired up, make sure you have pressure within a few seconds. If you don't have a gauge, take the valve cover off and crank the motor without plugs in until you see oil seeping around the rockers - then you know you've got oil pressure.
 
I cranked the engine until the BB was in the inspection window. There is also a very bright white line going across the flywheel at this point. When I pulled the cap the rotor was pointing at the 4 oclock position, so I had to crank it over 360 degrees. It then lined up to where the BB was in the window and the rotor was pointed toward the #1 position on the cap (right around the #4 plug).
I pulled the dist out completely and re set it again. When I slid it it meshed with the oil pump and the rotor turned counter clockwise to the #1 position on the cap. I then turned the whole assembly counter clockwise until the diaphram hit the oil filter. I dont think it was quite 30 degrees. I read in the CCOT write up. (THANK YOU IT HELPS) that I should be turning the unit clockwise. Can anyone tell me where their diaphram is set at roughly? Mine is turned counter clockwise so much it hits the oil filter. This has to be wrong
Click to expand...

Your timing was way out then, if I read your post right. And, given that I did read your post right, I'd say that you are a couple teeth off yet, since you are now firing through the header. If I had a digi cam I'd post a pic of my dizzy for ya. Just a side note, the engine will turn over extremely hard if the engine is firing "against" the starter.
 
Well Im stuck in NC for the next few hours waiting to go back home. I will see about pulling the valve cover off asap. I
already have a new gasket for it. Make sure about the stroke and give it a whirl.

Thanks again for all the help and if someone has a good photo of where their dist. is pointed it would sure help me out.

Thanks again.

Warren.
 
That looks to be about like mine, which don't mean all that much. Where the teeth are in the cam, and where the rotor is at, is the most important thing. Take your valve cover off and rotate the engine around until you are lined up in the timing window with the TDC mark. You should be able to lightly wiggle the #1 rocker arms and #6 rockers should be tight. If not then rotate the engine around 360 deg. until the marks are lined up. Once you know you are at #1 TDC then pull you cap off and see if the rotor is pointing at #1 terminal on the cap. If it's not then pull the dizzy out and line the rotor up with the #1 terminal, and do so with the Vac. Adv. diaphram a little ways away from the oil filter, so you have a little room to advance the timing without hitting the filter. Clear as mud? I hope that helps a little.
 
Folsom, that helps alot. I will see about pulling the valve cover tonight. I have a new gasket for it already. Do you (or anyone) happen to know the torque specs and sequence of the valve cover nuts?

haynes was not too clear on this.

Thanks again. I hopefully will report back with a running cruiser tomorrow.
 
I don't believe there are recommended specs for the valve cover. I just looked in the Engine Manual and there's no mention I could find. Just snug it down, well, And I use permatex on one side (the cover side) to aid in preventing leaks. Put on the Permatex and then put the gasket/cover on a level surface and weight it until the Permatex cures.
 
[quote author=Jukelemon link=board=1;threadid=14264;start=msg137414#msg137414 date=1081773649]
Just my experience, starters do not get weak, they just stop working i.e. contacts wear out.
[/quote]I disagree...I changed out a slow cranking starter in Moab last week...
 
Well guys were are very very close!!!! it sputtered last night for about 1 second. with a good drink of Starting Fluid.

Then next issue is I think the new battery I got is defective, or completely dead.

I swapped batterys out of the wifes 4 runner last night and it started turning over better. HOWEVER the starter got so hot I could not touch it. Also I saw some smoke coming out of the inspection window.

I think the starter is fried.

I did have the valve cover off and the timing was out as suspected. I pulled the dist off and re set it correctly. I am pretty sure the timing is correct now.

Just need to get some more juice to turn the motor over.

Cruiser gas tank came yesterday. SHould have that in this weekend and hopefully report back that I have a RUNNING truck again.
 
I also have a 75 that is nearing completion on the resto and has been sitting for a while. You wouldn't imagine the crap that gathered in the tank. I took it out and had it cleaned and lined (125 bux) and still couldn't get the damned thing started. After lots of investigation it turns out the fuel pump gummed up (electric) and I had the lines on backwards from the tank (DUH). might wanna check.
 
I love the smell of napalm in the morning, That smell,, that gasoline smell, It smells like....VICTORY!!!!

Well I have to thank everyone on this post who offered suggestions. I think the two major issues were a crappy battery, and timing that was way out.

I set the timing correctly after 12 tries and popping off the valve cover. and took out the new battery to have it tested and recharged if needed. Turns out it was at 300 CCAs, instead of 660. Got a new battery and it turned over much better. and then she roared back to life after a 3 year nap.

Some blue smoke. but I will take it.. Love that its just got a header at this point.
I have a few questions on property tweaking the carb but will save it for another post.

I kind of felt like a cross between Jethro Clampett, and Mad Max. I pulled it out of the garage. (no top, doors, windshield or W/S frame, hood, or seats) I used a 5 gallon bucket for the driver seat. No gas pedal or brakes, and drove around the yard a bit. I should say the yard is a few acres. and I was only going as fast as the idle would take me.

it felt great manual steering and all, to know I took two cruisers that were written off for parts and put them back together to make a runner.

Thanks again.
 
:beer: :beer: :beer:
 
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