2F wont start, Sitting a while.

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Wed's Update.

I pulled all the plugs, and was able to turn the balancer by hand, almost no resistance, thats a good thing. Nothing appears to be too boned up inside.

I pulled the delivery line attached to the carb and cranked it real quick. Fuel shot out with no problem. So no issue with old gas, clogged filter or bad fuel pump. Gas is getting to the top of the carb.

The line going from the mower tank to the OEM hard fuel line is the stock size for FJ 40s. so it is wide enough to handle the volume.

I also hooked up the Neg Jumper to the battery neg, and to the alt bracket, (just to double make sure I had a good engine ground)

With all the plugs in it seems to turn over better. I did have to jump the new battery though to get the engine moving with any decent speed. The new battery by itself was not strong enough to turn it over with all the plugs in. (bad Starter??)

I was working the accelerator linkage and noticed the pivot arm is very very slow to open. Probably full of gum. I will probably take the carb off and clean it.
So I am still in the delema of no gas getting to the engine.
Would squirting a little gas right in the carb maybe help things along to start the engine.

Two side note questions. The Plastic plug in the alt has two wires comming out of it. A white and green one and another.

I am missing the other one. I think the diagram shows a dotted line from E to E. I dont know what E to E is though. and if its dotted what does that mean?

Also with the new Dizzy. I have not hooked up the vaccum line from the diaphram on the dizzy to the carb. Would that be the problem? It was plugged by the PO so I would imagine no.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I really do appreceate it.
 
My friend, just pull the carb and clean it. I think it would not only save you time but also take away a major variable in terms of troubleshooting.

As far as gas in the carb? You might as well use starting fluid if you are going to go that route. But that should be after the carb is cleaned and then you might not need it.
 
among all those other things, make sure the fuel pump is working, even a couple weeks of sitting, the diaphragm will dry up and cease to work. Good Luck!

:cheers:
 
Fuel pump works like a champ, Flows like a garden hose. I pulled the inlet line last night and gave it a crank, gas came right out. Fuel filter is old and will get replaced but it is not blocking anything major at this point.

I am going to pull the carb this weekend and see If I cant give it a good cleaning.

Any hints on the wires from the plastic plug on the alt??
I have the green/white hooked up correctly , Diagram shows a dotted line going from E to E. What is E to begin with. thanks.
 
yesterday was too good so I thought I would go into the garage last night and get angry and frustrated some more :D

I pulled the pivot arm off the carb and worked the plunger manually, this seemed to bring some fuel into the carb body. I could hear the sucking noise. I also noticed the sight glass was completely full. so gas is inside there. I am going to pull it this weekend and clean it real good.

BTW. a few times it back fired, and once I saw a flame come out of the header.
 
Okay, I think I found the problem, The pivot arm on the pump of the carb is almost not working. I can take the bolt off and push down and pull up on it and hear / smell some gas getting to the carb.

Also After priming it a few times by hand I could see that the sight glass was all the way full.

Time to pull and clean as Correctly suggested. The turning over thing is getting better. I will see if I can get some time this weekend and report back.

Thanks for the help. Warren.
 
I was able to pull the carb and take apart per the haynes manual. Lots of gum and crap in there. I got it reassembled and back on. I will do a rebuild kit probably next week but just wanted to see if the thing would run. Still no DICE, DAMMMMIT.
I know its getting gas now. sight glass is half full and I can smell gas in the carb. so its working.

It still turns over very very slow with all the plugs in it. I would now turn to the starter as the problem?

What do you guys think.
 
Well then what do you guys think is the problem? The engine just doesnt want to turn over very fast.

I pulled the plugs. and can crank it by hand no problem. the battery is new, the cables are new, and I have the engine grounded to the frame and the top starter bolt.

Carb has been disassembled and cleaned. Fresh gas. new plugs. OEM electric dist, cap, wires and rotor. bench tested in front of me by Jim C.

I am stumped. I just dont think the engine is turning over fast enough to get a good spark and ignite the fuel.
 
have you switched batteries? possible that it's undercharged, or old enuf to not put out sufficient current (even if it's fresh off the store shelf- they DID charge it for you, correct??). recheck all the connections, clean them all. Remove and reinstall the starter, double checking connections there. Use a continuity tester between all the terminals and make sure you don't have any drop, positives and grounds.

got current at the coil? Both in key-run and in key-start?
 
Yes I have switched them, just to make sure, used the battery out of the 4 runner. still turning over about the same speed. I will pull the starter tonight and re check all the connnections.

Maybe a silly question. but would not having any of the lights hooked up make a huge problem? The PO had a plow on this and re wired the front lights. I promptly cut all of his connections as they were not working. The only things that are not hooked up are the front lights. side lights. signals and horn. Still what bugs me is if all 6 plugs are out it turns over very fast. Lots of spark when placed against the block. It just seems there is not enough juice when the plugs are in.

Thanks again.
 
when the plugs are in, the motor actually has compression...that's your resistance. It SHOULD spin slower with the plugs in....

I've had some pretty slow spinning motors that would start....hell, the FJ40 even had a hand-crank option for starting, don't tell me they need to spin fast...lol
 
Just a thought, are your plugs the right type for the vehicle? Are they gapped correctly? Have you tried starter fluid? If starter fluid will not ignite, then you have a spark issue or timing issue. Are you sure the plug wires are hooked up in correct order?
 
I got the plugs from the Import motors parts store. NOT like autozone, They are NGKs. I will check the gap again to double check,

I have sprayed starter fluid in the clyniders with no luck. just a few more puffs.

The timing may be off. I set it as best I could to the haynes manual instructions.

got the BB to line up in the inspection window.
set the new dist in and lined up so that the rotor was pointed toward the Number 1 in the CAP after the gears set in and the bottom lined up with the oil pump, the Rotor was pointed toward the #6 plug, Closest to the Firewall.

I havent been able to adjust the timing due to the engine not running. The diaphram on the rotor is turned in such a way that it almost makes contact with the oil filter. 3 mm more in the counter clockwise direction would make contact. if this helps for visualization.

Plug wires are numbered (OEM) Correct me if Im wrong #6 plug is closest to the fire wall. #1 plug is closest to the radiator. The numbers on the wires match up to the corresponding numbers on the cap.


I know the timing is critical. Maybe I could adjust the cap a few degrees and give it a try. Even if the timing was severely messed up would the engine still run. (run like crap) but run.
 
timing is beyond critical....a few degrees out won't matter much, too far retarded (I think) and it won't start or be VERY hard to start....WAY too far out and it definitely won't work.
 
Zeta: Starting fluid needs to go into the intake not the cylinders. Take the air filter off and spray into the throat (carb not yours) for about a two second count. Leave the air filter off and then try to start.

DO NOT LEAVE THE STARTING FLUID CAN IN THE ENGINE BAY.

Here is a link that might help. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/coolfj40/timmy78qa.html
 
[quote author=Zetasig link=board=1;threadid=14264;start=msg137460#msg137460 date=1081778590]


The timing may be off. I set it as best I could to the haynes manual instructions.

got the BB to line up in the inspection window.
set the new dist in and lined up so that the rotor was pointed toward the Number 1 in the CAP after the gears set in and the bottom lined up with the oil pump, the Rotor was pointed toward the #6 plug, Closest to the Firewall.

[/quote]

If I am reading this correctly you are saying that your rotor is ending up pointing at 6 instead of where you want it on 1, then, that could really affect your timing. If you have spark you should be able to hold the timing light up there while you are cranking it and see where your timing is. My guess is that you are far enough off that you will have to pull the dizzy and over-rotate it to get it in there right.

What IDave said you definitely gotta check too.

Good luk and keep smiling. You are learning something here.
 
Guys First of all thanks for all the help. I am still a no go. but yes Learning lots. thats the fun part.

I pulled the dist again last night and fiddled with it some more.

This is how its in right now.

I cranked the engine until the BB was in the inspection window. There is also a very bright white line going across the flywheel at this point. When I pulled the cap the rotor was pointing at the 4 oclock position, so I had to crank it over 360 degrees. It then lined up to where the BB was in the window and the rotor was pointed toward the #1 position on the cap (right around the #4 plug).
I pulled the dist out completely and re set it again. When I slid it it meshed with the oil pump and the rotor turned counter clockwise to the #1 position on the cap. I then turned the whole assembly counter clockwise until the diaphram hit the oil filter. I dont think it was quite 30 degrees. I read in the CCOT write up. (THANK YOU IT HELPS) that I should be turning the unit clockwise. Can anyone tell me where their diaphram is set at roughly? Mine is turned counter clockwise so much it hits the oil filter. This has to be wrong.

I will try that when I get home.

I shot a little starting fluid in the carb and when I turned it over got a few flashes out of the header, a back fire and that was it.



Thanks again guys. Warren.
 
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