2F Starts But Wont Stay Running (1 Viewer)

[goodol84]

Ok. Need some help from you guys. I am hoping the solution is something small that I am overlooking....

A little about my 60:

-Stock Desmogged 2F.
-Rebuilt stock carb. by Marks Offroad (within the last year)
-Jim C. Dizzy Recurve/ rebuild (within the last year)

I blew a head gasket couple weeks ago. Tore it apart (using the 2F FSM). Took the head to a machine shop. Checked for warpage and cracks. Took .010 off the bottom. Valve job. Had all valve guides and springs replaced. Checked manifold surface for warpage. Good to go.
Took them my intake to resurface and check for warpage and they found a huge crack that I didnt see. Found a GOOD used intake here locally and took it to the same machine shop to check out. Had it resurfaced and it checked out good.
Put everything back together with an OEM h. gasket. Ditched the stock ex. manifold and bought a header. After I got the intake back the flanges on the intake/ header looked to be the same thickness so I did not use any shims. Installed them with a Remflex gasket and torqued to their specs.
Installed head, pushrods, rocker assem., torqued to specs. temporarily adjusted the valves cold.
Replaced the thermostat with an OEM one. Replaced temp. sending unit, plugs. and new oil/ filter and fresh coolant. Replaced PCV. Reconnected all remaining vac. lines. Replaced the old carb. insulator plate with a new/ used unit that has good gaskets still attached. All vac. lines/ plugs are new.
The truck starts up for a second but will not stay running or idle. Sorry for the story but Im pretty stumped right now.

 

[goodol84]

Here are a few pics. Just because.

 

[Heartworm]

There is a plug on the bottom side of the intake manifold that one can remove with a Allen wrench. It serves no purpose in our rigs but if it is missing, your vehicle will do as you describe. Look on the bottom side of the intake slightly on the firewall side of the carb.

 

[goodol84]

That plug is in its place. Thank you for the response though. I am figuring that I have a really bad intake leak or maybe the fuel cut solenoid is not working correctly. I have done the green wire mod and it was functioning before all of this took place.

 

[Heartworm]

I bet that you are right that you have a bad vacuum leak. Will it run with the choke pulled out, or at least run better/longer?

 

[klinetime574]

Just a few ideas/ questions of mine:

Will it stay running with your foot on the gas?

Where does the brass vacuum nipple hook up to that you installed on the intake where the old three port gas filter was?

And the vacuum port on the carb insulator, what is that hooked to?

Motor looks great, hopefully we can get it running!

 

[goodol84]

Just a few ideas/ questions of mine:

Will it stay running with your foot on the gas?

Where does the brass vacuum nipple hook up to that you installed on the intake where the old three port gas filter was?

And the vacuum port on the carb insulator, what is that hooked to?

Motor looks great, hopefully we can get it running!

klinetime, thanks for the compliment, 2f builds like yours make me not want to give up on mine.!
brass fitting is going to VCV on p. side by dizzy. Port on carb insulator to VCV for evap on d. side.







OK....so last night I went back and checked a few things.

-Rechecked all the valves. Cold of course. Per the FSM. Had someone help me this time just to put another eye on what I was doing. I readjusted a few but they were ok overall.

-Did a compression test on all cylinders for piece of mind and all cylinders tested good.

-Double checked all vac. lines and plug wires.

Now with the dizzy fully rotated counter clockwise (until the bolt is bottomed out on the slot) I got it to stay running with the choke pulled out. But it is running really rough and shuts off as soon as I push the choke back in. I also got it to run (like crap) with the dizzy in the same position, choke off, but feathering the gas. As soon as I let off the gas it dies.

Going to pull the dizzy and reinstall per the FSM right now (even though I did not pull it out for the h. gasket job???) I do remember having trouble installing the dizzy about 6 months ago when I got it back from Jim C. I dont think I could get it to run right back then per the FSM install. Keep in mind that I recently scrapped my old intake because it had a huge crack in it. Sorry for the story. Just been doin this

 

[Heartworm]

maybe spraying some carb cleaner around the areas of possible vacuum leaks (carb base, intake manifold, various lines) would give you a clue on possible vacuum leaks. If it starts OK with the dizzy the way it is, I am skeptical that it is your problem.

 

[goodol84]

Dizzy checked out ok. Sprayed carb base with carb cleaner and RPMs increased. I think my "new" used insulator is no good. Going to order a new one and go from there. Appreciate your input Heartworm.

 

[klinetime574]

klinetime, thanks for the compliment, 2f builds like yours make me not want to give up on mine!

Thanks! Didn't know I was such an inspiration haha


Hope you can get another insulator soon, or find the crack and fix it.

Gotta get that clean-A$$ motor running

 

[mikeob1]

Hi Jesse,

Give me a ring, tomorrow. I can help out.

-Mike

 

[goodol84]

Installed the new insulator and I think I got rid of that leak but now I have an intake leak where the manifold bolts to head. I am using a Remflex gasket torqued to 20lbs. (2lbs over recommended)

 

[goodol84]

I can now get it to run without the choke. Just idles really high....

 

[Heartworm]

You definitely do not want to run the engine for prolonged period with an intake manifold leak. It will overheat and warp you pistons (see attached photo of cylinder wall of mine). Many folks on the board favor a Fel-Pro manifold gasket. I used that one based on their recommendations.
Because you have a header, it may be that you will need to look closely at the way the manifold bolts are holding the intake and exhaust. Jim C. once told me that he has used shims where they are not the same height; tedious I suspect.