2F head gasket replacement

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Jan 15, 2008
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Sunshine Coast, B.C.
So i got my newer 2F and 4spd all wired and into place today, flashed it up, and the head gasket is f***ed. I've never rebuilt an engine, but i'm mechanically inclined ( done all the work on my truck). Is a top end rebuild, if it needs it, somthing a newb like myself should attempt? I don't think it would have been run very long with the gasket as it is, i ran it for about 15 seconds and it probably lost a liter+ of coolant sprayed onto my header, and out my exhaust. Can anyone reccomend a good repair manual?
this is what i get for rolling the dice on a $100 engine:doh:
i'm guessing i should go with toyota gaskets in any case.....
 
head gasket

well that is a shame,


A top end rebuild is usually considered including pistons and rings which means pulling the motor, from what I read I think you mean pulling the head and fixing the leak--is that right?

As a newb?
This is not a hard job and the prep removing the accessory items is worse than the head removal or gasket change.

I would say go OEM or better if you find a knowledgeable person has posted such a thing. You don't want to do this over.

Once the carb, exh, etc is pulled it is pretty simple. Get a FSM
if you dont have one and observe the torque/ and sequence


The head is heavy, you may be able to do it alone but just dont drop it. While it is off if you can afford it have a valve job done at a local machine shop and have it checked for cracks and level deck

soak any rusted bolts with pb blaster and repeat if necessary.
if you break a bolt dont break an easy out off in your motor or you may not be able to drill through it
instead try using a left hand drill to try and get it out and if necessary rethread the hole/helicoil it


work clean and cover holes securely

since you have not done it before take notes, make drawings, and take lots of pics close up and standing back of every wire hook up and vacuum hose and routing. bag and tag (mark) all hardware and loose assemble things where they go if you can

make a list of consumables
exhaust donut
Sealant
gaskets
anti sieze compound
etc


Biggest prob will probably be bolts breaking and or other exhaust components crumbling and making sure you know where everything goes back to.


Once it is back on retorque IAW manual after driving 500 miles or so (whatever the manual says)

the head rebuild at the mach shop is not all that spendy


You can do it:cheers:
 
You can do it. Several of us have just gone through it recently. I've made a few posts as have others so do a search and pick up some info. I recommend the factory 2f manual and the clintons together for many jobs. I think the clinton will be more than enough for this job though.
Do buy a toyota head gasket!!! You might want to look into a remflex gasket for the intake/exhaust manifold, oem for the donut gasket for sure.
I had my head redone at the machine shop- magnafluxed, valve job etc. I would recommend this and have them check your manifolds for flatness/milling. You could just pull it and clean everything up really good then drop a new head gasket on and go on.
I'd recommend checking it all out and knowing what you have. You can have a look at the cylinder walls and get an idea as to how the bores look, crosshatch etc.
Good luck and feel free to PM me if you've got questions.
 
I have done this a few times prep is everything. clean every thing better than you think you can. In my experence heads cast iron heads don't just decide to leak oneday so while its out take it to a head shop and have it checked at the very least. this is a great time to have a valve job. really in the grand skeem not that expensive. remember you don't have to know what you are doing when you start it's when you finish that count's. And there is always a motor head around to help you if you ask them. you will need a few of these :beer: :beer: good luck.
 
to all: thanks for the valued input.

I'm going to pull the head off tomorrow, and i do have a spare head ( off the 2F i just pulled out) if it's cracked. Nothing left to do but start :wrench:, and track down a manual.......
 

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