head gasket
well that is a shame,
A top end rebuild is usually considered including pistons and rings which means pulling the motor, from what I read I think you mean pulling the head and fixing the leak--is that right?
As a newb?
This is not a hard job and the prep removing the accessory items is worse than the head removal or gasket change.
I would say go OEM or better if you find a knowledgeable person has posted such a thing. You don't want to do this over.
Once the carb, exh, etc is pulled it is pretty simple. Get a FSM
if you dont have one and observe the torque/ and sequence
The head is heavy, you may be able to do it alone but just dont drop it. While it is off if you can afford it have a valve job done at a local machine shop and have it checked for cracks and level deck
soak any rusted bolts with pb blaster and repeat if necessary.
if you break a bolt dont break an easy out off in your motor or you may not be able to drill through it
instead try using a left hand drill to try and get it out and if necessary rethread the hole/helicoil it
work clean and cover holes securely
since you have not done it before take notes, make drawings, and take lots of pics close up and standing back of every wire hook up and vacuum hose and routing. bag and tag (mark) all hardware and loose assemble things where they go if you can
make a list of consumables
exhaust donut
Sealant
gaskets
anti sieze compound
etc
Biggest prob will probably be bolts breaking and or other exhaust components crumbling and making sure you know where everything goes back to.
Once it is back on retorque IAW manual after driving 500 miles or so (whatever the manual says)
the head rebuild at the mach shop is not all that spendy
You can do it
