2F - F1.5 Carburetor Adjustment (OEM part # 21100-61012)

[smokedpig]

I purchased a new carburetor from City Racer and while anxiously awaiting its arrival was hoping I could get some feedback from others that have purchased, installed, and tuned this model. Specifically, assuming timing is set correctly, and valve clearance, compression, and vacuum are within range, which of the following adjustments can I expect to have to set when my carb arrives:

1. Choke Opener
2. Fuel / Float Level
3. Acceleration Pump
4. Idle Speed
5. Idle Speed and Idle Mixture (Lean Drop)
6. Fast Idle

Q1: I will of course check all of these to ensure they are with spec but would like to know if these carbs typically come ready to bolt on, will require a little tweaking, or I can expect it to come totally out of whack and require full setup?

Q2: Is there anything I am missing?

Thanks in advance for any help provided. Greatly appreciated.

 

[mattressking]

1. Does not apply unless you add it
2. No but I highly recommend ditching the factory and replacing with Aisan, I've had them fail within about 6-8 months of use.
3. No
4. Yes
5. Yes
6. Yes
7. I recommend inspecting the fuel cut solenoid o-ring, I've seen those in poor shape out of the box.

The carburetor will fit your truck however you need to adapt:
1. Air cleaner
2. Connector for the fuel cut solenoid.
3. The choke cable connection will not attach without an aftermarket ferrule purchased at Oreilly or similar to adapt.

You should have rod linkage for pedal and that will work, assuming your 1F is all original which is not specified.

 

[smokedpig]

1. Does not apply unless you add it
2. No but I highly recommend ditching the factory and replacing with Aisan, I've had them fail within about 6-8 months of use.
3. No
4. Yes
5. Yes
6. Yes
7. I recommend inspecting the fuel cut solenoid o-ring, I've seen those in poor shape out of the box.

The carburetor will fit your truck however you need to adapt:
1. Air cleaner
2. Connector for the fuel cut solenoid.
3. The choke cable connection will not attach without an aftermarket ferrule purchased at Oreilly or similar to adapt.

You should have rod linkage for pedal and that will work, assuming your 1F is all original which is not specified.

My carb has arrived and all adjustments (mentioned above) have been made. Thanks again for the pointers!

I noticed when I removed the old carb there was no gasket between it and the manifold. Is a gasket or rtv required? See blue arrow below.

City Racer has Carburetor Base Gasket. I assume this is what I need.

Carburetor Base Gasket for '69 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 FJ60

Carburetor base gasket for 3/'69 to 8/'87 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 with 2 barrel carburetor. This gasket fits beneath the base of the carburetor and atop the carb insulator. It was never offered as an individual part by Toyota, as it came melded on top of the carb insulator.

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[smokedpig]

My carb has arrived and all adjustments (mentioned above) have been made. Thanks again for the pointers!

I noticed when I removed the old carb there was no gasket between it and the manifold. Is a gasket or rtv required? See blue arrow below.

View attachment 3691889

City Racer has Carburetor Base Gasket. I assume this is what I need.

Carburetor Base Gasket for '69 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 FJ60

Carburetor base gasket for 3/'69 to 8/'87 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 with 2 barrel carburetor. This gasket fits beneath the base of the carburetor and atop the carb insulator. It was never offered as an individual part by Toyota, as it came melded on top of the carb insulator.

www.cityracerllc.com

carburetor base gaskets

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Grayscale]

The OEM Racer carb really needed nothing aside from a idle-mix and idle speed. I made a plug for the fuel return line with a non-threaded section of M8 screw and hose clamp. I needed a spacer for the air cleaner, and some longer all-thread to accommodate the USA-air cleaner assembly. A trip to local auto store for a Dorman "Cable Stop" to use as a choke-cable stop - adjust for full motion of the choke butterfly. The carb insulator gasket was used without adhesive. I got new flat washers, and split-lock washers under the nuts on the carb studs to prevent a vac leak - be patient with assembly and disassembly, kinda tight and a magnetic pickup tool should help.

Not sure about the '74 set-up - totally different iirc.

 

[smokedpig]

carburetor base gaskets

forum.ih8mud.com

I installed the new carb, made the final idle and fuel mixture adjustments and it runs great! Vacuum is back up to 20", smooth at idle and highway speeds. No more black smoke pouring out the exhaust, and most importantly it no longer stalls (floods) on hills. I highly recommend a city racer ( Fuji) carb if you are having issues with yours!

Disclaimer, I haven't driven a carbureted vehicle in a while but did notice some carbon buildup (image below) after driving for about an hour. Is this normal or should I take another look at my fuel mixture, pcv valve, or something else? I am concerned it is getting gummed up and I am going to be right back where I started.

Incidentally, my massive vacuum leak was caused by PO installing carb insulator upside down and not blocking off the hole to the vacuum passage bolt. My OEM base gasket was gone so I made one. As stated I am now pulling 20" of vacuum, so far so good.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Grayscale]

Mostly cosmetic. Looks like my carb barrel the last time I looked at it. Varnish, from fuel sitting is a bigger concern, or stuff in the tank getting in the carburetor. Your valves might be dirty, and need seals, and when there is oil polymerizing on the top of the intake valve, after running for a while, it can gum-up the intake manifold and carburetor. I'd consider it a bigger problem for the other passages, like the original emissions control vacuum stuff, as those passages could get clogged quite easy, and they aren't straight holes, as an emissions hose is a big problem in the event of an intake back-fire-hickup. PCV valve and hose needs to be free, but, that isn't too hard to clean or replace. It might make your air filter dirtier than it should be. I've never bought a can of carb cleaner because fresh, quality fuel should do the job.