2F Engine Knock (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cascade Cruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Mine did the same thing.I took it to a few places to diagnose.Someone said it was a rod knock and someone said it was a wristpin. It was to high to be the bottom end.I rebuilt it and now it dosen't make that sound.LOL
HAHAHA! When all else fails, go overboard!
- Thread starter
- #24
I did not feel any excess play in the wrist pins when connecting rod bearing caps were off.
My next free weekend I will take a look at the timing gears. That will give me a chance to inspect the cam, lifters, and pushrods while I'm at it. I am getting a crash course in 2F internals, good thing I slept at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
A few addtional questions:
I've read differing opinions on this board about replacing the cam gear w/ either an OEM gear with rubber insulator, or a solid aftermarket gear w/o the insulator. Does anybody have any strong opinions on this matter? I don't see a good reason not to go OEM unless they are a weak point of the 2F (or ridiculously expensive).
After removing the pushrods and lifters, do I need to worry about anything falling down into the oil pan when removing the camshaft? I don't really want to pull the pan again unless I absolutely have to.
I really appreciate all the advice, I feel like I'm getting close to the source of the knock.
HA HA HA It needed it.Why tear something with a ton of miles on it apart and put all the worn out parts back in.Only a dip**** would do that
- Thread starter
- #26
UPDATE: Camshaft Thrust Clearance
After many months of enduring my engine knock, I finally tore into the front end this week. To my delight, I found that the cam thrust clearance is a whopping 0.032 inches (nearly 3 times the limit in the FSM). I am assuming that this is the source of my knock, considering that the crank pulley, timing gears, cam lobes/bearngs, lifters, and pushrods all look fine. I'll try to track down a new thrust plate tomorrow. Incidently, it looks like the camshaft timing gear was replace by a previous owner because it is a "solid" gear w/o the rubber dampener.
Soooo....it looks like Pin_Head had this one nailed with his post back in February. I'll re-post when I get her put back together again to hopefully report a smooth, knock-less motor.
After many months of enduring my engine knock, I finally tore into the front end this week. To my delight, I found that the cam thrust clearance is a whopping 0.032 inches (nearly 3 times the limit in the FSM). I am assuming that this is the source of my knock, considering that the crank pulley, timing gears, cam lobes/bearngs, lifters, and pushrods all look fine. I'll try to track down a new thrust plate tomorrow. Incidently, it looks like the camshaft timing gear was replace by a previous owner because it is a "solid" gear w/o the rubber dampener.
Soooo....it looks like Pin_Head had this one nailed with his post back in February. I'll re-post when I get her put back together again to hopefully report a smooth, knock-less motor.
- Thread starter
- #28
are you planning on replacing the punk-ass solid gear w/ the dampened one?
No, I've read too many bad things about the OEM cam gear. Plus, the one that's in there is in pretty good shape.
- Thread starter
- #29
Just an update to bring some closure to this thread for future readers. I replaced both timing gears and had both the camshaft and lifters re-ground. Last night I fired it up and the knock is gone! Ultimately, I believe the knock was a result of excessive camshaft end-play and worn gears (too much backlash). As a bonus, I'm getting noticeably better performance from the re-ground cam profile (250S from Delta Cam) and my timing plate oil leak is fixed.
