2F amphibious rebirth attempt

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Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Threads
8
Messages
28
Location
Sterling, AK
I'm in the process of bringing the 2f in my 85 back to health after submerging the vehicle in a river and leaving it overnight until help could arrive. After draining numerous gallons of water out of every mechanical system and adding fresh fluids I made the 20 miles back to my place with no problems. The next day when I went to fire it up it refused to stay running without liberal application of the choke. I have since rebuilt the carb, installed new intake and exhaust gaskets, and removed a majority of the IM equipment since I live in an area where it's not an issue. With these fixes I've seen an improvement and can run with out using the choke after warm up but my idle setting and mix is all jacked up to accomplish this.

After testing the fuel cut solenoid this morning I found that it's junk, no click when put to power. I also managed to tear the boot for the fuel plunger while removing the solenoid and the damn o-ring for the solenoid that was stuck in the carb fell down into the manifolds when I fished it out but I'm sure it was toast anyway.

Is their a way to modify the fuel cut solenoid physically so that fuel is always flowing, it doesn't have to be pretty I just want to get this engine up and running? Where can I find a replacement if I need one?

I'm almost ready to say to hell with the stock carb and purchase a weber 38 conversion but I'm trying to leave that as a last resort.
 
I went ahead and chopped the business end of the fuel cut solenoid off and made a plug out of the rest since it's toast and wouldn't ya know the ol' 2f is idling under 1200 rpms with out the choke for the first time in 2 years!! I have idle set around upper 600 and it's still a little rough but hopefully adjusting the timing and the vavles that I can hear now will take care of that.
I haven't messed with the timing on one of these and it looks like you go off the fly wheel but short of what must be a 0 degree spike in the center of the window I can't find any other markings, maybe they rusted off.
It's a good day though and with a luck I hope the 60 will help bag me a moose this year.:cheers:

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Timing on the FW will be a distinct line at 0* - Clockwise of that, will be a BB (or hole if BB is missing) embedded in the FW, that is 7* BTDC ...

Your truck may diesel without the Idle Control Solenoid. You can get aftermarket ones on ebay for $20, that require splicing into the existing wires. Trollhole on this board has ones that are grounded through the body of the ICS so it's only a 1-wire hookup, bypassing the emissions box. PM him and ask.

Glad you got her going... Did you get all the water out of the dissy?
 
I've been running for a 3 months with the fuel cut soleniod end cut. It has been in the mid 90s every day and no issues. It's my dd. It will diesel if the idle is at or over 1000 rpm. I set mine around 700
 
I'll definitely get a replacement solenoid for the price and what I thought was just the sound of some vavles in need of a good tune is probably the dieseling side affect of my hack job patch. That and I ripped any piece of IM nightmare that I thought was useless off when I just did the manifold gaskets and I hear that warrants a timing adjustments. I'll be out counting bb's on the flywheel once it stops raining.

It's been a little over 2 years since the cruiser spent the night on a ice filled river in water 2 inches over the hood. The distributor seems to have made it through the mishap unscathed and I made sure any moister that might have found it's way in was delt with before it ran again. One of the worst parts of the deal was my gas tank filled with river water and I've been collecting all sorts of crap in the fuel filters and I'm sure there's all sorts of oxidation inside as well. I'm happy just to have the beast running but I'm not going to throw a bunch of money at it to keep it there, that's what my 80's for. When the day comes to put it out to pasture, I'll have a reason to throw the 38's under the 80.
 

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