275/70/17 ok? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter foreste1
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This has been beat to death. All depends on tires and offset. Some have more luck than others.
Generally; If you want the tires, buy the tires…but don’t be surprised if you have to do work to stop them from rubbing.
My advice? Those tires are overrated. Get a good set of 265/70/17 and be learn to pick lines better. An extra ½” of clearance isn’t getting you anything other than worse MPG and slower acceleration.
Generally; If you want the tires, buy the tires…but don’t be surprised if you have to do work to stop them from rubbing.
My advice? Those tires are overrated. Get a good set of 265/70/17 and be learn to pick lines better. An extra ½” of clearance isn’t getting you anything other than worse MPG and slower acceleration.
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theres like 285 threads about this already
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- #5
Thank you, thats what I have decided too, just go with 275/70/17 and call it a day!
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- #6
Crap I mean 265/70! Keep typing the wrong size!
I agree. The 285s do look a little better and it can be argued that the extra width will help in getting grip offroad, but the negatives just weren't worth it to me. I got some 265/70/17 KO2s and they do what I want them to do and they still look pretty mean.
Looks shouldn't be a factor in my opinion. Form follows function. I usually compare my part decisions to more legit overlanding vehicles... the Camel Trophy Land Rovers ran some small, skinny tires and they successfully covered more badass terrain than just about anyone.
Now grip? That is relevant. Everyone seems to go with load range E tires. I get it, better puncture resistance.. yadda yadda, but they ride like s*** and don't deflate well.
In terms of grip, on a truck this size... with equal deflation PSI... a load range C 265 will provide far more grip than a load range E 285. It will ride a lot better too. The E rated walls are just too stiff. E rated tires are made for F350s.
Also, I think dumping $2500 on a set of tires/wheels before fitting a winch or rear locker is silly. A winch of locker will get you far more places than big tires and shiny wheels will.
Yeah, I agree that looks shouldn't matter. But for so many, it does. I care about function and performance way, way more than looks. But it's undeniable that my sexy lexy looks way better with the 265/70 KO2s than the 265/65 Bridgestone street tires she was rocking before. Still on stock rims. I put that $1400 into my suspension instead of new wheels.
I've been pretty happy with my 265/70R17's AND a 2" lift. Total wheel/tire weight is close to stock (as my wheels are a bit lighter than OEM) and the GX has tons of grip and clearance off-road (close to 11" under the front skid plate) when aired down to 15 psi. There have also been no noticeable changes in fuel economy, handling, acceleration, or braking with this combo.
Have the performance improvements (MPGs and power) of the DT headers been noticeable?
MPG, not really. Power, yes. It "felt" like i gained 20-30 hp.
Man....There is so much truth to this. The comfort and daily driver performance of a C load tire can not be over-looked.
So many people do everything at one time - wheels - suspension lift - tires - and then wonder why the truck is not smooth anymore. When the majority of the time it is not the springs, or the shocks to blame.....it is the crazy stiff E-load tire they put on.
I have 32" E-load Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 tires (E-load) on my 3RD generation 4Runner and I have to air them down to at least 14PSI to get the sidewalls to flex. I bet I could daily drive them at 20 PSI! Like you said the sidewalls are super strong and puncture resistant but they are so crazy stiff.
If anyone on here has E-load tires and think their truck ride is to rough I would experiment with a lower daily PSI and do a chalk test to make sure the tire is contacting the street correctly. The GX 470 is not a really big/heavy vehicle and with an E-load range tire I bet you could get away with 25-30 PSI on the street.
Some may disagree with me when it comes to overall toughness, but I've been very happy with 4-ply, P-rated Falken Wildpeaks. They are smooth and quiet on the highway and flex very well at 15 psi off road in all conditions. Knock on wood, but I have yet to have a flat or damage one and I've wheeled them hard in some rocky areas (lots of razor-sharp chert and volcanic rock here in SE MO). Even better was that they cost $165 a tire when I bought them (now they are over $200, probably due to Falken keeping the initial cost low to get more folks to buy them....). 46.5 lbs per tire is nice and light too.
I really learned this as a cyclist. All of my bikes (road and gravel) get the most expensive, lightest, and most supple tires available. The difference in traction, speed, and ride comfort is always worth it, even if I get a few more flats or have to replace the tires more often. I've ran heavy, puncture-resistant tires on a few of my bikes and they ride like crap and are slow/heavy. You can really feel it when you are the power source!
I really learned this as a cyclist. All of my bikes (road and gravel) get the most expensive, lightest, and most supple tires available. The difference in traction, speed, and ride comfort is always worth it, even if I get a few more flats or have to replace the tires more often. I've ran heavy, puncture-resistant tires on a few of my bikes and they ride like crap and are slow/heavy. You can really feel it when you are the power source!
I've also torn the s*** out of some E-Rated sidewalls (on a little Nissan Frontier back in the day). They are not bomb-proof. Stiffer actualy means more likely to puncture in some instances.
