Paid $1700 at mechanic. Reasonable?

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A few things accumulated with the GX470 that I haven't had time to deal with so I dropped it off at a local independent mechanic. There has been a persistent check engine light, which according to techstream was due to a knock sensor code and a vacuum leak. Mechanic told me that there's no way to troubleshoot the knock sensors without taking the intake off and that'll be $850 in labor. I said fine, since we have no choice. I asked him if he thinks we should preemptively replace the secondary air pump while we're in there. He agreed.

So here's the total list of work done:

1. Replace knock sensors.
2. Replace secondary air injection pump.
3. Full synthetic oil change
4. NYS Inspection (40$)
5. He said he had to drive it for 30-40 miles to get the monitors to reset.
6. He smoked the evap system in an attempt to find the vacuum leak. He did not find any. He explained that he suspects it's a disintegrating charcoal canister that intermittently sends bits of charcoal that get stuck in the EGR or purge valve, which might occasionally prevent the valve from closing fully. He advised against replacing the charcoal canister because it's expensive. Didn't seem to throw any more vacuum leak codes so we left it as is and passed the inspection.

Overall, the bill was $1700. Reasonable?
 
Being in New York state. The closer to new York city the more expensive it would be. It is probably reasonable.
That it why a lot of people deferred the maintenance keep trading to newer car.

Old vehicles only makes sense if you can do the maintenance yourself. Even that sometimes the special equipment needed to fix is expensive and cheaper to pay a mechanic.
 
Sounds reasonable for the amount of work done.

(of course, I would have done it myself but if I didn't have the time, space, or if I was uncomfortable doing it myself, that's money well spent.)
 
Was the problem solved? You need to drive it over 100 miles over a few days to really know if the code comes back or not.
 
Yes the problem is solved as of right now, but you're right. Time will tell.

Regarding the knock sensors - I'm surprised to have incurred this issue. I haven't heard of a lot of our cars with UZ engines having the knock sensors go back. I've heard of mice chewing wires but this wasn't the problem - evidently as soon as he replaced the sensors, the codes went away.

Regarding the evap leak - who knows. We'll see.
 
Bummer he couldn’t locate the evap leak, I recently had this error and learned enough to be dangerous…my leak wasn’t the charcoal canister but I did research replacing it in case I had to. There is a post on this forum with pictures, it looks like a pretty easy job. I found Lexus canisters on eBay for around $400 fyi. They are sold from Japan and sellers had good feedback. I believe they are closer to $700 from Lexus dealers(online).
 
I'll have to check out that post. The mechanic told me no sense in replacing the canister until it causes such a problem that I can't pass inspection. He told me it's a $800+ part. I guess everything is more expensive coming through him apparently.

Undercarriage is pretty severely rusted, not sure how easy of a job it would be considering everything is going to be seized.
 
Where are you in NY? I know a couple of reasonable mechanics out here on Long Island if you need a recommendation.
 
Where are you in NY? I know a couple of reasonable mechanics out here on Long Island if you need a recommendation.
Hey, i’m new here but I’m going to buy a 96’ and I’m assuming it needs work as it hasn’t been moved in 2 years.
Could you provide a couple of those mechanics so I can get a few opinions on what to do with my 80 ?
 
I was able to get a used charcoal cannister on ebay for $175 and replace it myself in the driveway in about an hour. listed the tools i used in this thread:

if someone told me they thought chunks of stuff might be getting sucked into my engine i would take care of it asap.
 
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He said small particles of carbon falling into the (EGR?) valve that was preventing it from closing. Maybe some other kind of valve - whichever valve would create vacuum leak if it's stuck open. It doesn't sound like it's something that's directly going into the engine cylinders.

He also referenced the excessive rust being a can of worms when replacing the cannister, as well as the high price of a new OEM canister.
 

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