24 x 50 garage Canopy from nwcanopies.com

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Mikesta

Never decruiserfied
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Hey guys, hope this is the right section.

After about a month of seeing parts all over my yard and my tenants giving notice to vacate... I had sudden energy to do something about my clutter.

I chose the 24 x 50 canopy because... I had it already. Putting these things up is pretty simple if you have the right parts. I'll share what I did here and give away my tricks of the trade so you can possibly do the same.

Planning:

1. Depending upon your area, you will need to plan the pitch for your canopy. I went with 120 degree fittings, so the pitch is perfect for the rainy seattle area. (My fittings - powdercoated, I love em so much I give them a lifetime guaranty). If you get no snow, 110 degree is plenty pitch.

2. You have to plan for wind, where does the wind blow, which direction. This is important in figuring out if you will have a enclosed canopy or not. keeping a gap under the canopy allows air to excape and enter. Enclosing it makes it a wall.

3. What application do you need? A simple pole structure with a tarp cover, a complete structure with sides.. perhaps even ends? I will be installing a zipper door on the front of my canopy.

4. Choose a somewhat level location. My location.... not level... however using simple math, the canopy is.

5. How tall do you want the sides to be? I chose 6.5' as the highes side point.

6. How wide do you want the canopy to be? I chose 20' at the top, 24 for the footprint. You will want to get out of the car after you drive in so 8' will be way too narrow... shoot for 12 minimum.

7. How long? Keep in mind a vehicle is about 16-22' long. I didn't choose 50'... I had the canopy laying around. a 2 car is 20x20... You could squeze 7 vehicles in this one.

8. Now, the important part... how will you anchor your canopy? These will fly away like a kite if not achored properly. You can place poles in concrete, use concrete anchors or use stakes (what I will be doing). Depending on size and wind conditions additional anchoring will need to be placed.


Ok, let me know if I've missed anything... I'll gladly add.

So now you need the tools....

Tools:

The most important tool is a strong back. Hire someone at home depot or a labor ready and it will go much quicker. I was too lazy and cheap to drive 15 minutes to do this... but looking back... $100 in a days laborer would have made this canopy completed... I still have about 5 more hours before its finished.

Other than that, you may need a pipe cutter (if you local fencing store doesn't cut your pipe to size) and a 14mm wratchet.

Methodology:

First lay out your pipe. If you have a 20 x 20 canopy, then you will lay out (12) 10 footers.

Next lay out where your fittings will go and use your 14mm to connect them. For a 20 x 20 kit, you will need (6) 3 way and (3) 4 way.

Assemble.

Now you will lay your tarp over the frame and bungee it to the the frame.

Next raise one side at a time (it is better to have 2 or 3 guys for this... I did the 24 x 50 solo). (I used some cheats).

Now that the legs are in use the 14mm to tighten.

You canopy is now assembled.

The last part is to line everything up square and anchor to the ground, using fence stakes and then using U bolt's to secure the stake to the canopy... or buy using cylinder blocks or sinking into concrete.

Summary:

In summary this will provide you with a temporary carport or garage that you can move, doesn't cost too much, usually doesn't require permits ... and depending on the quality tarp you select will last for 6-10 years before replacing the tarp. (the structures last up to 20 - 40 years). Our fittings are lifetime warranteed.

This makes a perfect place for a back yard restoration.

Seattle Canopies, Custom Canopies, Batting Cages, Pitching Machines, Garage RV Canopies, Equipment shelter, Container Alternative, Sports Cages - NW Canopies will be selling kits and sells all the fittings, tarps and addtitional parts needed to construct your canopy. All you need to do is source the 1 5/8 Galvinized pipe. If you want a quote or have questions let me know... I'd be happy to give a discount to mudders.

Posts are useless without pictures, so I snapped a few of the installation so far.

You can see the 20 x 20 that I replaced with this one.
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I'll take better pictures tomorrow... It was getting late. See the sag in the last picture.. that was corrected by using a cheap lazer. I chose to go with 6'6" for the side measurement at the highest point. That is your base measurement. Take the numbers of all other poles you have ( you can do this before construction) to figure out where they need to be cut to make the canopy completely level... add the gap in difference from your base to the 6'6" for all other lower points. I'm sure someone else can explain it better, I'll try if your confused.

Some with my bucket truck parked next to the estimate truck ... and some to show you the size.
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Anyplace that Tarp rubs the pipe, you will have a hole.

Yessir... lets go back to quality. This is true for Import tarps. Expect 1-2 years out of an Import. That white tarp in the first picture.. import.

This Tarp... its born in the US. You will get between 6 and 12 years out of it. ;)

nwcanopies.com has been around for 20 years. I aquired it from what the Canopy world calls the Godfather of canopies. (his wife actually, he passed away)

Which brings up a good point. If you have a 20 x 20 tarp. And are an able body, those sell for about 50 - 80 bucks... Throw one up every few years. The good quality US made ones go for about $400. 90% of my customers get My US made ones, they don't want to deal with it every few years.
 
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Good Point on the tarps.

We use them for Hay coverage.

Blue Tarps - $60 at Harbor Freight - 2 Years

Silver Tarps - $80 at Harbor Freight - 4 Years

If my wife spends $400 on a tarp for covering hay, we are selling the horse to pay for the tarp. LOL
 
got a little bit more done today.. not quite complete. Welded some square tube to a bracke that was to attache above the shed door for the leg.... too much weight. Plan b is to use 2 more fittings and 2 more legs on both sides of the door.

You can see the lower brace/bungee bars... it creates tension on the canopy and pulls it tight.

Started to drive the anchor posts....

Then I moved a ton of vehicle accessories under it... Chia... and Submarge... now dry.
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I had been using the blue tarps,but now they are not even lasting a year. I have to figure out where to build a metal building and slab. MIke
 
Looking at the canopy I put up for myself, that canopy looks like crap. Guess the plumber is the last to fix his junk.

Here is one of the latest canopies i did for a neighbor. He lives under it year round. In seattle this is gold, be outside and stay dry :)
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Agreed! What kinda snow loads can these take! I get a kick out of seeing all the 200$ costco carports collapsed around here every winter.
I have one like this I store some crap in...
canopy-outdoor-garage-design.jpg

And it has held up to massive amounts of snow so far!
I'd love something like your last pic infront of my shop though I think I will have to go metal roof so the snow can slide off!
 
Agreed! What kinda snow loads can these take! I get a kick out of seeing all the 200$ costco carports collapsed around here every winter.
I have one like this I store some crap in...
canopy-outdoor-garage-design.jpg

And it has held up to massive amounts of snow so far!
I'd love something like your last pic infront of my shop though I think I will have to go metal roof so the snow can slide off!

Well, a few years back we got 24" in 24 hours around the suburbs of seattle. A few that had the 110 degree fittings went down (3 of 400 ish). We go with the 120 degree fittings now, so far none of these have come down... but I say if you have 6" up there, rake it off.
 
I would be raking a LOT of snow here. Is 120Deg the steepest pitch available?

If you get a ton of snow this setup isn't for you :). No we just do this pitch. Its simular to a 4/10.
 

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