24 Volt to 12 Volt Once-And-For-All Thread (1 Viewer)

[Max Wilder]

Many owners of 24V diesels would like to run 12V accessories such as stereos.

I've been searching and reading for a very long time now, and I think I'm starting to understand but it's darn confusing and there aren't any pictures.

I want to make a kind of once-and-for-all thread to answer the 24 Volt to 12 Volt Dilemma.

And to that end, I have prepared an exhaustively detailed and researched, to scale, and attractive I might add, diagram to illustrate the point.

Now I'd appreciate it if some helpful soul, (or all of you less helpful ones) could save this image, open it in paint, and draw in the appropriate wires and connections, then upload it here again.

You'll need to add a reducer (24-12 converter) and a relay I think. Thanks!

*(Once I get a good explanation I'll make a nice and clean diagram to replace this one.)*

Also, I'd appreciate suggestions (and links) for converters/reducers and relays

 

[biocruiser]

Wow, you got no love on this one eh? Did you figure it out? If so, update the diagram please!

 

[canucksafari]

No love because it has been done over and over and over and over...

I think Stone did up a nice diagram 3-5 years ago. I'm too lazy to search, but you can.

 

[bj40green]

How about this one.
Very simple.


Rudi

 

[Diesel42]

Stone did an excellent writeup using the "solar convertor" which allows one to utilize either convert or balance mode. Been four years for me now with no battery problems.

 

[canucksafari]

If the voltage reducer doesn't have its own fuse, then you will need to install another inline fuse between the reducer and the load(s). If the max amps for the reducer is 23 amps and continuous is 20 amps, then put in a 20 amp fuse. In my case, I have a terminal block after this fuse, so I can run a number of 12V accessories if I want to - not just a stereo.

 

[ForealBoreal]

If the voltage reducer doesn't have its own fuse, then you will need to install another inline fuse between the reducer and the load(s). If the max amps for the reducer is 23 amps and continuous is 20 amps, then put in a 20 amp fuse. In my case, I have a terminal block after this fuse, so I can run a number of 12V accessories if I want to - not just a stereo.

bingo you beat me to it.

 

[american psycho]

Do it right or don't do it at all!!!



the only thing that 12V converter should be feeding is the exciter terminal on your 12V alternator, then run output from the 12V alternator to your third battery.

it's covered completely here (i'm a link, click me)

i actually used this to reconstruct the wiring after i ripped out the po's rat's nest out of my 24V HZJ73 with the 12V charging circuit. Use the ignition-switched relay sourcing power from the from the switched 24V stereo source you want to replace.

 

[cruiser88]

can you not just use a ballest resister to help even the load between the 12 volt side of the reducer and the lineload?

If the voltage reducer doesn't have its own fuse, then you will need to install another inline fuse between the reducer and the load(s). If the max amps for the reducer is 23 amps and continuous is 20 amps, then put in a 20 amp fuse. In my case, I have a terminal block after this fuse, so I can run a number of 12V accessories if I want to - not just a stereo.

 

[The Dude]

here's my set up: