2ndGenToyotaFan
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Without pulling the head bolts/rocker assembly...
This isn't a full write up, because honestly I do not recommend this method, and take no responsibility for anyone attempting this job....
That said, it is possible, and I did just complete this on my 85 4Runner. This is really a two man job, but if you are highly dextrous, then you might be able to pull it off by yourself...
I built a valve spring compressor tool to help make this job possible, there may be an off the shelf compressor that will work with the rocker arm in the way, but I didn't go looking for it...
I used a piece of oak (because it's strong...) trim about 2 inches by 1/4 inch, and cut a notch into the bottom as seen in the attached pic. Then I bolted it through a long handle (about 10 inches from the end) to give me some leverage. I attached a piece of wire to the end of the handle which I then used to attach the whole thing to various parts of the rocker arm as I needed to move the tool around...
Pull the valve cover and the spark plugs, and take out all the valve lash adjuster screws/nuts. Stuff rags down the oil return holes at the front and rear of engine, you don't want to loos anything down there....
I used about 5 feet of "zip cord" (lamp cord) and a small length of hose to help feed it into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. This is to take up the extra room between the piston and the closed valves, to hold them up while you have the keepers/springs off of the valves. Do not loose the end in the cylinder!!!!! That would suck.
With the cord in the cylinder, and the crankshaft turned over holding the valves up in the closed position, use a hammer and a punch to knock the top of the spring retainer to loosen it from the 2 small keepers that lock into the valve stem.
Then use the super sweet tool (patent pending) to compress the spring and use a magnet to pull the 2 keepers out.
Now back the piston down a little at a time and push the stem down with something small and pointy till the stem is just barely above the old valve stem seal. Now you will have enough room to slide the retainer and spring out. You will have to push the rocker arm out of the way as far as allowed and compress the spring some to do this...
Use a variety of tools to pry out the old seal, and then install the new seal... I used a 12 mm end wrench around the new seal to help tap it into place, but that is not a great way to do it...
Once the new seal is in, reinstall the spring and retainer, then turn the piston back up and make sure the valve comes up, if it doesn't, you may have to help it, and make sure that it's all the way up, this is hard enough without trying to reinstall the keepers with the valve partly open.... Now use the tool again to compress the spring and use some grease on a finger or a magnetic something to slip the keepers back in (this is the hard part...)
Do the valves one at a time, and one cylinder at a time, and do yourself a favor and start with the #4 exhaust, it has the least about of room, and if you can get that one done, the rest will be a breeze....
This took me about 7 hours, but the first 2-3 was just trying to figure out how to do it/building the tool....
That said, don't try this at home! Here's my million dollar idea, no one steal it....
This isn't a full write up, because honestly I do not recommend this method, and take no responsibility for anyone attempting this job....
That said, it is possible, and I did just complete this on my 85 4Runner. This is really a two man job, but if you are highly dextrous, then you might be able to pull it off by yourself...
I built a valve spring compressor tool to help make this job possible, there may be an off the shelf compressor that will work with the rocker arm in the way, but I didn't go looking for it...
I used a piece of oak (because it's strong...) trim about 2 inches by 1/4 inch, and cut a notch into the bottom as seen in the attached pic. Then I bolted it through a long handle (about 10 inches from the end) to give me some leverage. I attached a piece of wire to the end of the handle which I then used to attach the whole thing to various parts of the rocker arm as I needed to move the tool around...
Pull the valve cover and the spark plugs, and take out all the valve lash adjuster screws/nuts. Stuff rags down the oil return holes at the front and rear of engine, you don't want to loos anything down there....
I used about 5 feet of "zip cord" (lamp cord) and a small length of hose to help feed it into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. This is to take up the extra room between the piston and the closed valves, to hold them up while you have the keepers/springs off of the valves. Do not loose the end in the cylinder!!!!! That would suck.
With the cord in the cylinder, and the crankshaft turned over holding the valves up in the closed position, use a hammer and a punch to knock the top of the spring retainer to loosen it from the 2 small keepers that lock into the valve stem.
Then use the super sweet tool (patent pending) to compress the spring and use a magnet to pull the 2 keepers out.
Now back the piston down a little at a time and push the stem down with something small and pointy till the stem is just barely above the old valve stem seal. Now you will have enough room to slide the retainer and spring out. You will have to push the rocker arm out of the way as far as allowed and compress the spring some to do this...
Use a variety of tools to pry out the old seal, and then install the new seal... I used a 12 mm end wrench around the new seal to help tap it into place, but that is not a great way to do it...
Once the new seal is in, reinstall the spring and retainer, then turn the piston back up and make sure the valve comes up, if it doesn't, you may have to help it, and make sure that it's all the way up, this is hard enough without trying to reinstall the keepers with the valve partly open.... Now use the tool again to compress the spring and use some grease on a finger or a magnetic something to slip the keepers back in (this is the hard part...)
Do the valves one at a time, and one cylinder at a time, and do yourself a favor and start with the #4 exhaust, it has the least about of room, and if you can get that one done, the rest will be a breeze....
This took me about 7 hours, but the first 2-3 was just trying to figure out how to do it/building the tool....
That said, don't try this at home! Here's my million dollar idea, no one steal it....
