What is up yall? After reading through practically every thread on here and YotaTech I decided to give it a try to remove the pan by just lifting the engine, and subsequently disconnecting one of the tie rod joints at the idler arm.
About 10-12 years ago there was A LOT of discussion about how to go about doing it. And there are a handful of terrible YouTube videos out currently. So rather than post a reply to an ancient thread, which the next researcher may or may not reach the end of, here is a new thread.
This particular truck is an 86 4Runner with IFS & Manual Transmission. I can’t speak to the automatic trannies, but it can be done this way on a manual.
I have yet to tackle the cleanup and resealing, so that’s sure to be a trick with the application of the FIPG (RTV Sealant…). But I intend to place the pan in position resting on the diff, install the pickup tube, THEN apply the bead of FIPG (probably on the block itself) very carefully to hopefully keep from smearing the bead.
All of this effort is because of the leaky water pump and seals all to do with the timing cover, and installing a new chain set at the same time.
So far I’m glad I didn’t deal with the diff/CV’s/driveline/cross member. ALSO: A major advantage was gaining an angle to get the 1/2” impact onto the main crank bolt. Popped right off.
About 10-12 years ago there was A LOT of discussion about how to go about doing it. And there are a handful of terrible YouTube videos out currently. So rather than post a reply to an ancient thread, which the next researcher may or may not reach the end of, here is a new thread.
This particular truck is an 86 4Runner with IFS & Manual Transmission. I can’t speak to the automatic trannies, but it can be done this way on a manual.
I have yet to tackle the cleanup and resealing, so that’s sure to be a trick with the application of the FIPG (RTV Sealant…). But I intend to place the pan in position resting on the diff, install the pickup tube, THEN apply the bead of FIPG (probably on the block itself) very carefully to hopefully keep from smearing the bead.
All of this effort is because of the leaky water pump and seals all to do with the timing cover, and installing a new chain set at the same time.
So far I’m glad I didn’t deal with the diff/CV’s/driveline/cross member. ALSO: A major advantage was gaining an angle to get the 1/2” impact onto the main crank bolt. Popped right off.
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