2011 needs a radiator, not the usual crack

[UCrazyKid]

129,000 miles and my radiator is failing at the top tank where it meets the aluminum (not from the usual place where it cracks. I patched the crack 4 years ago and it has held.
If I’m doing the radiator I imagine I also need to do the hoses, water pump, thermostat, accessory belt, idler pulley, and flush/new coolant. Am I missing anything? New overflow tank? New cap for overflow and radiator?

Is the radiator part of or separate from the transmission cooler?
I’m on the fence about doing the work myself or just paying to have it done. Lexus? Toyota? Independent? Radiator shop? Definitely wan the new OEM updated radiator so the upper tank won’t crack in the usual place.
What can I expect to pay or how much time can I expect to put into it if I take this on myself? Is there a good YouTube tutorial?
Thanks.

 

[bloc]

There are two trans coolers, one inside the radiator that will come included, and the air/fluid one in front of the AC condenser that will stay in place.

Rad will also come with new cap. You shouldn’t need an overflow tank, our seem to hold up because they aren’t under pressure and don’t get exposed to UV light.

The rest of your parts list looks good, but consider a new fan support bearing. Little more work to get in there and change it but at 150k mine was getting tired.. others have been fine at 150. I suspect my cruiser was used for towing so that may have impacted wear on the moving parts of the cooling system. I have a thread about the support bearing somewhere.

Cost to pay someone will vary wildly. Lots of posts about cost in the big radiator PSA thread. If you are handy with tools budget a day at a leisurely pace. I don’t know of a how to video but that doesn’t mean one doesn’t exist.

 

[PDoyle]

Spark plugs. You need to bleed the rad hose anyway.
And, new hose clamps and heater T's.....

 

[kcjaz]

... consider a new fan support bearing. Little more work to get in there and change it but at 150k mine was getting tired.. others have been fine at 150.

^^^^^
this is good advice that I followed and was glad I did. You could pull the fan bracket off and assess it before buying the part. Mine was at 150K, and while probably would have not caused any issue for another 50K, it was noticeably degraded when compared side by side to the new one. @bloc has a good thread on this topic with a video.

Spark plugs are a good idea (see my LCDC adventure post about that) if you are not sure that have been replaced. You don't need to drain the coolant to get to number 8 plug so there is not a lot of synergy there. If you do the heater tees, then #8 might be easier.

 

[airforce1]

Anyone know the complete parts list for the rad hoses? Looking to upgrade mine.

BTW, what is the conventional wisdom for radiator replacement internal for an example that does not show any cracks or wear?

 

[bloc]

Anyone know the complete parts list for the rad hoses? Looking to upgrade mine.

BTW, what is the conventional wisdom for radiator replacement internal for an example that does not show any cracks or wear?

The OE hoses are better long-term than any aftermarket "upgrades" available. Silicon is a common go-to (probably because it is brightly colored), but is lower durometer (softer rubber) and easier to tear than standard black rubber.. and toyota uses some of the highest quality stuff available.

People's old-design radiators have gone anywhere between 80k and there are reports of 200k plus. The common number is around 100k.

The upgraded factory part, which is covered heavily in the PSA thread, hasn't had a failure yet that anyone knows of. Though this could be because it only came out in 2018 and none would have accrued the mileage yet. It does seem to address the primary weakness of the original design though.