2008 Sequoia ARB Bumper install (10 Viewers)

[LandCruisinMy93]

I'm not great at taking pictures once I start a project but will try and document the Install for posterity. The whole point of this long winded post is to supplement the crappy ARB instructions that are Tundra specific. Most of the 1st half of their pamphlet it worthless to us. My instructions are also darker than a coal diggers butt Crack and useless for picture reference.

WARN EVO 12/10K WINCH USERS!
You will need to purchase spacers of at least 1" the winch sits on the motor and clutch and the feet are roughly 7/8" from touching. ARB doesn't mention fitment being a problem with any winch other than the Zeon. I will update with any further fitment issues.

The terminals on the motor are very close to the underside of the bumper and the provided control pack relocation bracket not only sits dangerously close to the terminals, but is too low to get the controller plug in without angling it. If you slide the relocation bracket away from the terminals pluging in the controller becomes more or less impossible. I will be designing and having a new bracket made ro utilize more mounting screws as well as push the control box up another 1/2" or so.

AMMENDMENT TO EVO 12K.
I would go with 1-1.25 "thick spacer.

WINCH MOUNTING BOLT LENGTH
73MM is the absolute max, or 3"long bolts with a flat and a split washer is what I need for the 19mm thick fairlead. And 54mm for the top bolts.

If you're using a thinner fairlead add the thickness of your fairlead to 54MM
Or 2¼"

ADDITIONAL PARTS TO CONSIDER PRIOR TO INSTALLATION:

(2) Park sensor housings (black) 89348-33060-C0 (if you have park sensors)

***They're like $5 each and I've seen them for $3 each. They tend to be brittle and a pain to remove.***

The bumper is an ARB 3415010 Deluxe Bull Bar for the 2007-2013 Tundra and 2008-2020 Sequoia.

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION TO VEHICLE:

3/8" drive Ratchet
1/2" drive ratchet
*** I used both regular and powered***

Sockets used (3/8" drive): All six point
10mm shallow
10mm deep
12mm deep
14mm deep
17mm shallow
17mm deep
6" extension

Sockets (1/2" drive 6 point)
14mm deep (impact rated for powertool)
17mm deep (impact rated for power tool)
17mm shallow
19mm deep (^^to remove shipping
brackets)
2" extension (impact rated for power tool
6" extension

Wrenches:
(2) 17mm combination
17mm offset wrench (for final tightening of the mounting bracket whiz nut.
19mm (for removing shipping brackets)

Other tools:
Screw driver #2 Phillips (marker lights)
Small flat head (stubborn push clips)
Non-marring trim tools
Long flat blade pry bar and softener
Soft face hammer
9/16" Tapered drift punch
7/16" or 10mm stubby metal drill bit.
Drill that fits bit.
Right angle drill (my standard plus a regular length bit wouldn't make the tight space for drilling the pinning bolt holes.)

I will add any other tools used as i use them.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Parking Sensor Preliminary work.

KEEP IN MIND FOR LATER INSTALLATION OF THE SENSORS. THE SENSORS ARE HANDED. There is a right and a left and they are NOT interchangeable.

When I swapped in the new sensor housings I didn't pay attention and had to redo them.

Tools:
-Caliper or Metric Tape measure
-Rafter Square or stiff straight edge
-Carpenter square/speed square
-Drill
-Center punch ( I used spring loaded)
-3/16" bit for pilot hole
-Deburring tool
-A step/Uni bit set up to 7/8" or hole saw
-Quality masking tape
-Masking paper
-Razor
-2k Epoxy primer
-Black paint (I used appliance Epoxy type)



I first read the directions a few times. Then I acquired a large enough step bit to make the necessary 22mm- 7/8" hole. Then I laid tape on the corners.

Next I broke out the big calipers. Measuring 80mm from the inner edge of the side marker pocket. I made a scratch in the tape. What is not shown is using a carpenter square to make a vertical line about 2" down following the scratch line.

I used some tape to hold the heal of the rafter square to the top of the bumper roughly in line with my vertical mark.

Then, if you're using calipers you clamp the straight edge and zero them. Then add 50mm. Make your horizontal mark

Next Center punch your mark.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Next you pilot drill using the small bit to avoid wandering

Next you step up your bits until you've reached 7/8"

Clean the tape from around the edge with a razor.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Next you should either file or use a bur whip/deburring tool around the edges of the hole

Now you tape masking paper around the hole in the original masking tape. And spray with some 2k Epoxy primer. Or don't, I'm not your boss.

Then after the 2k has tacked, you apply some black paint. In this case I used black Epoxy appliance paint and a spritz of 2k clear. I had the Primer and clear on hand as I was painting fender extensions for the headlight upgrade. So, in between working on those I worked on this.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 1: Pop and lift Hood
Step 2: Disconnect Battery Negative

Step 3: Remove fender extension push clips using a soft pry tool or small flat head to pop the center up and remove the clip. You should probably just order new clips.

Step 4: Remove Fender Extension panels. Insert interior pry tool under edge between fender bottom and Extension end. Gently twist panel tool and manipulate Extension straight outward

Step 5: Remove 8 push clips from top of bumper cover and under headlight

Step 6: Remove 3 bumper bottom push clips/screws

Step 7: Remove 2 bottom fender liner screws each side

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 8: Remove 4 front inner fender liner push clips. 3 clips along the arch and one at the frame each side.

Step 8: Remove screw in bottom corner of the bumper cover.

Step 9: Disconnect the parking Sensor wire, a white plug attached to the loom just under the right Headlight and a black plug on a white clip on the loom on the left.

Step 10: Disconnect your fog lights if you have them.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 11: Release the corners of the bumper cover by pulling forward and slightly outward, if you want to save the cover be gentle or you will break the corner radius. Once removed set to the side out of the way.

Step 12: Remove the tow hooks from underneath, these are 2, 17mm bolts each side.

This is the perfect time to clean up the rust, treat with OSPHO overnight if possible and paint the rusty areas with Epoxy primer. I haven't yet but I will before the final bumper Install.

Step 13: Remove the 3, 17mm nuts holding the crash bar. You can skip this and spend an eternity doing it ARB's way.

Step 14: Remove and RETAIN the 4, 14mm nuts of the crash bar attachments. Throw the attachment pedestals to the side.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 15: Dump out this amazing bag of hardware ARB has provided and admire how much of your $2200+ USD went into organizing it...seriously bulk buy some damn plastic divider containers ARB! What the F#*k is wrong with you cheap turds!? Couldn't even toss a rubber band around the cable ties? You probably could have tossed all the washers on a piece of string and I wouldn't have cursed you as badly.

After some relaxing OCD hardware classifying and organization you can proceed to the next step. Don't you dare skip sorting!

Step 16: Insert the clevis nut from the inside of the frame rail. The threaded hole goes first There is a longitudinal rectangle hole just behind the sway bar bushing in the picture. The Tapered edge faces forward. This cannot go from the outside, but has a smaller rectangle hole on the outside that it indexes into.

Step 17: use the 2 provided whiz nuts to double nut this long double ended bolt. ARB doesn't bother mentioning which of the dissimilar ends to double nut. The long end without thread locking compound gets double nutted. I found that the pictured amount of thread is about as much as you will be able to use and still get a wrench on the back nut during removal.

Step 18: looking into the hole indicated by the arrow you should see the threaded portion of the clevis nut down the outboard frame rail. Thread the rod in by hand and the use a 17mm to thread it down until it stops.

Step 18: Using a 17mm wrench and, either another 17mm wrench or a ratchet with 17mm socket, remove the whiz nuts.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 19: using a 10mm socket and ratchet remove the 6 nuts holding on the front bumper support. Had to reuse a picture here as I forgot to take one of this specific process.

NOTICE: DO NOT BEND the center bracket. In the ARB instructions it states that you need to bend the center bracket over if installing a winch. The 12k had no issues fitting.

Step 20: Remove (4) 10mm bolts on back side of auxiliary trans cooler if equipped. I used a short 10mm socket for the one at the bottom left. The circled arrow denotes the location of a screw not pictured. I didn't remove the trim piece to get to it.

IF YOU WISH TO REINSTALL THE COVER IT CAN BE USED WITH MINOR TRIMMING. Pictures in post #15

Step 21: Remove bumper cover retainers by removing (2) Bolts

I know Step 21 above should really be Step 12 after bumper cover removal, however, it doesn't really matter when it is removed so long as it is removed prior to the new bumper Installation.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 22: loosely install ARB Bumper mounts using the 14mm nuts retained during Step 14 above, as well as, the 8mm thick rectangle washer and the 17mm whiz nuts used to double nut the long bolt into the clevis.

Set the mount in place and start the inner 14mm then this leaves your hands free to put the washer and whiz nut on. If the long bolt seems too short, brace the bracket against your chesticles and push it in, then reach the outside end of the clevis nut on the frame, and move it forward...again this leaves a free hand to screw on the nut.

******Mini- TIRADE******
Again ARB, would it have killed you to laser an R for right or L for left somewhere...ANYWHERE! on the brackets? Or even a simple sticker that denotes the side...You people...yeah I said You people... you people put a pink sticker on one bubble wrap and a blue on the other.... not sure if you're trying to defy societal norms about gender or what...but you make no mention of these color codes anywhere. No, it isn't rocket surgery to figure out, but my time is worth money, and I already paid a bunch for the bumper, and your cheap a$ses hosed us on the hardware packaging/sorting...do us a solid and label the brackets. A sharpie R or L on the appropriate sticker would suffice.
******Fin*****
Sorry for the rant.

If you have a pink and blue sticker maybe they are meant to denote side, in which case here is the orientation....of the bracket...by no means am I gendering or assigning orientation based on a sticker color and synonymous with gender......MOVING ON!

You will want to leave the 17mm whiz and the single 14mm nut a little lose for the next step.

Step 23: Grab yourself a pry bar with some decent leverage and some sort of edge softener. I used a piece of reinforced HDPE rubber membrane I had floating around the work bench for AN fittings. Fold it over the blade and wedge it between the new bracket and the power steering cooler line.

Some GENTLE persuasion to push it back a little bit. Maybe a ¼" or so, the bracket just contacted the hardline. You just want to create room to slide the bracket over to get the last 3 14mm nuts on and not have the hardline rub on the bracket.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

We're getting closer.

Step 24: get the bumper cover and remove the park sensors if you haven't already.

There is a tab you press down on the back of and one you will need to wedge down to pop the sensor from the housing.

Once your sensor is out you remove the housing. I recommend purchasing new housings before you begin.

If reusing the original housings Press the 2 plastic tines in and push the housing out. Rotate it up or down to get the tab out

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 26: Install the park sensors. Simply install them on the ARB exactly as they came off the factory bumper...NOPE!

PRO TIP: Install the sensor housing half way in the bumper, then slide the sensor into the half-installed housing, and THEN seat the housing and clip the sensor...the sensor will have a positive lock on the housing.

There isn't room to install the sensor if you don't do it this way...my housings came out OK...but removing them to get the sensors in was the end of the little plastic tines. The sensors are directly in front of the main bar of the bumper where it insert down into the bumper.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 27: Remove the factory fog lights if using. Use a panel tool to pry the trim piece up and pull it out. Then remove the 3 10mm screws holding the light to the bumper cover.

Step 28: The ARB instructions are fairly accurate when it comes to the fog light installation.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Step 29: follow ARB provided instructions to mount included turn signals to the bumper.

Step 30: Install your fog lights per ARB instructions.

Step 31: Install your winch. Mine came pre-broken, and I quickly realized ARB tells you that your winch fits when in reality you will need a minimum 1"-1.25" spacer kit.

THE ARB INSTRUCTIONS ARE SEEMINGLY ACCURATE AFTER THE MOUNTING BRACKET INSTALLATION.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Another Pro-tip: when installing the cross brace underneath (it bolts to the front lip of the bumper and to the edges of the mounting brackets) make sure it is left loose. Once you reinstall your tow hooks and tighten them down you will need to tighten the (8) m14 nuts and then the mounting bracket whiz nut. You must either use an offset end wrench or remove the two brace bolts from the bracket to tighten the inner 14mm nut with a 6" extension and 14mm deep socket. The 17mm whiz will require an offset box end to make life easier.

To reuse the cooler shroud remove the passenger side outer most intake vent from the bottom at the edge of the shroud body. Then cut half way over on the inner intake vent front below. Finally use a pair of side cutters to remove the center rib.

You can now slide if in place and mark out the top notch. I ended up cutting 4 times in total. Removing as little as I could and still leaving material to radius the corners. Sharp corners Crack, radiused corners not as much. Then I rounded any Sharp edges and dressed them as I did the work primarily with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutoff wheel. I will take it off and get a couple more pictures when I get a chance.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

For those of you who are stubborn idiots like me and like to do everything themselves, this can certainly be done without help. However, I do not recommend it. Having helpers not only saves you from injury, it also would make adjusting the bumper easier. The toughest and most time consuming part for me was adjusting the bumper gaps and relationships to the body lines. It is a lot of work alone. I will get a picture when she's all finalized.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I won't have a finalized picture for a little bit as I do the onboarding maintenance but here is a little something to place hold.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

New headlights installed and wired; and the Morimoto fog lights, and bezels installed. I used trim adhesive to mount the bezels so time will tell how well that works. It took 1 small tube $8 from the local autoparts place. I didn't find black sikaflex local.

I have designed some mounts for the yellow Morimoto HXBs and the winch control pack bracket. I added 2 additional holes to mount the control pack. I reduced the drop of the bracket to raise the control pack enough that you can plug in the remote. I sent those to Send Cut Send Sunday to be made of 304 stainless.

The winch spacers should arrive this week, I will be installing the winch with stainless anti-tamper hardware. Then I will temporarily mount the control pack and wire it up to spool the rope on.

I spliced an eye in the winch rope for the Factor 55 spool with a brummel lock and about 30" of bury to mount the ultrahook. Once the lights and rope etc... are installed I will finish the assembly, loctite and torque everything and mount the rock tray.

Afterwards I will get some proper pictures to add here.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

The before and after.

 

[yonah]

I just read through this entire write-up as I’m considering the purchase of a second gen Sequoia.

Great work and kudos on the level of detail you put into this thread - very impressive. I enjoyed the humor as well. ARB’s bullbar instructions are notoriously bad, so these types of step-by-step write-ups (with photos) are great.

Thank you!