2006 UZJ100 build - bit at a time.

[RKRUGER]

Please meet Moose. She’s a 2006 UZJ100 complete with AHC, nav, and all the luxury SUV goodies that $63k would get you in 2006. We bought her in 2014 with 91,000 miles and a fresh timing belt/water pump switch out.

Going back in time a bit... First was baseline with all fluids including those in that funny whirling buzzing reservoir near the right side firewall. Techstream showed the front was out of spec so I dialed up the front torsion bars. And the wife drove it back and forth to work...
I replaced the rear coils with factory AHC coils after she fell down and didn’t want to get up on a South Dakota Badlands trip towing my M416 trailer.

3 teenagers in the backseat and a tongue-favored trailer was more than she wanted.
Switched out to Sequioa wheels and Continental TerrainContact in the 265/70 -18 size. I really like this tire both on the pavement and on gravel fire roads etc. IH8MUD so really can't speak to mud traction.

This fall I was looking at two repairs... a front seal on my 2009 Tacoma DCSB and a failing cat on the 100. The cat was the cheaper repair and the wife wanted something new, so the Taco went down the road and she got a new Venza. I do miss that truck. One deciding factor was the ability to comfortably sleep inside the 100. Not really an option in the Taco. Arguably the 100 drives better as well, even 3 years older and 70K more miles on the clock.

I also have a 2010 Prius (Touring, yay) that’s been a fantastic commuter car but with the CCP virus-imposed quarantine I haven't put many miles on anything the last year. The deal with the CP (chief procurer) was lose the Taco, build the 100. So... two weeks ago a 48x72 pallet showed up from @cruiseroutfit with a big box strapped to an even larger box... 445# of ARB goodness.

 

[RKRUGER]

First off, you can put an ARB bumper and a set of drawers in the back of a 100 series in a pinch. In case anyone was wondering, it’s tight, but it will fit if you need to haul them or store them away from prying eyes. The shipment included the 3413190 Deluxe winch bar, a RDRF1045, the mid-height RFH1045, and the 100AIRFK. I wanted the full height drawer on the driver side to take advantage of the 60% fold-down seat, and the mid-height drawer on the passenger side with my 50qt ARB fridge/freezer mounted to the sliding top. This shot shows the initial install and the nearly level sleeping area back to front. Without a sleeping pad, my hips rest about 8" from the edge of the drawer, the arch of my back spanning the gap. In practice, we will have to see.
I took several detailed photos during the install as there just weren't some of the things I was looking for. One surprise is that the mid-height drawer does not roll on bearings but instead uses plastic slides. The roller tops are essentially identical, rolling on large roller bearings.

Here is the face behind the second row.

I spent a bunch of time reaching out to folks as to how they may have trimmed out the side next to the mid-height drawer. In typical fashion, the ARB instructions and the literature for the drawers is a bit lacking. Some great info can be found here: https://sleeoffroad.com/wp-content/...formation-Bulletin-No-859-ARB-RFH-Drawers.pdf and @catastrofe and @deltapine put me on to a certain ARB part RFFKADP1045R, an adapter plate that bolts to the bottom of the drawer and allows for the fit kit to be bolted. That would provide a level storage area over the right side wheel well, but the fridge would sit in a well, so to speak.
After a lot of measuring and consulting, I decided to modify the fit kit support brackets. I trimmed approx 3" off of the bottom of the bracket closest to the tailgate, replicating the curve to accommodate fit and finish. The galvanized panels cut easily and you use the galvanized piece to mark the inside curve, use the carpet to mark the outside curve. Clear Gorilla glue secures the carpet back to the galvanized. Here I am using 1 provided nutsert and the two added phillips screws to retain the panel.
The angle bracket in the center is supported by 2 of the provided nutserts and 1 additional phillips fastener.

In the photo above, on the left side, those two chamfered holes are where the stop is secured. Where the drawers are bolted together, you need to access this through the drawer frame of the full height drawer. You can also see the bottom of the access panel with the metal bracing and the two clips that engage the middle angle bracket.
To finish the passenger side out, I am having a panel bent up to incorporate the step over the wheel well and that will house the electrical bits. The panel needs to step up about 3" to meet the rear bracket and the supplied carpeted panel.

Overall, the fit and finish of the drawers are what you would expect from ARB. They just work. I think you could lift the truck by the drawers- they are just that solid. The stops are positive both in and out. For my 2006, I used 1 tall and 1 short spacer from the floor to the u-channel to secure the drawers. Some have said a different combination of spacers is requied, but mine used the same combination at all 4 points.

 

[RKRUGER]

With the fit kit lowered to make it level across the back, I still needed to step up the rear (middle???) portion to clear the wheel well. Kurt @cruiseroutfit recommended a finished panel from ARB that is basically carpeted galvanized steel. ARB part# CERDRFH1045 is available as a trim piece that is exactly the height differential between the full height RDRF1045 and the mid-height RFH1045. Using the rear fit kit plywood top as a template, I formed a barrier piece that bridges the difference. This area will house and protect the "brain center" of the rear of the rig.

 

[RKRUGER]

It's nice to have access to a well-equipt and heated shop in Minnesota to use in the winter. My brother is the GM at a JIT laser table, forming and fab shop in central MN so we spent a morning there fitting the ARB 3413190 Deluxe winch bar sans winch. As I am still running AHC, and the primary purpose of the bar is animal protection and vehicle preservation, I am not mounting a winch at this time. Regardless, the ARB bumper is a bit of a beast. The total install for my brother and me was 3 hours. This side of the shop also houses the old gas engine and steel wheel (pre-1920) tractor restoration area, so there are always cool things to see in the background.

Obligatory photo with Tupperware removed.

I used a stack of taped washers as a spacer that mic'd out at 13MM to keep the gap consistent side to side.

Artsy photo outside... For perspective, the gas engine in the foreground is a 1050 cubic inch Minneapolis Moline straight 6 that came out of a dragline. It is 78" tall to the top of the valve covers.

 

[RKRUGER]

My take on power requirements may be different than some, I don't want to run a blender or a Skil saw off of my battery, but that is what makes the world go around. The Tacoma had pockets and cubbies everywhere, but no electrical in the back seat. I mounted a 60 amp BlueSea breaker to the top of the OEM fuse box, a 6 pole Blue Sea aux fuse box next to it, and ran a 10 AWG to the rear seat to give power to a Blue Sea 12V cig lighter/ USB combo. It perfectly ran the fridge off of the starter battery even on a 2-day non-moving trip. The key is to keep cold stuff in the fridge and don't open it every 10 minutes. On the LC, since I plan to sleep inside it occasionally, I did things a little bit differently but used the same components. The underhood stuff is pretty straight-forward. Blue Sea 60amp 285 series surface mount breaker (p/n 285060F) off of the starter battery to a 4 AWG running through the driver-side firewall grommet and then under the sill trim to the second-row area where the cable crossed to the passenger side at the point the carpet is velro'd together. You can see the plastic trim in the second photo below.

To the face of the ARB drawer, I mounted the same 6-circuit Blue Sea box (p/n 5025) that I used on the Tacoma, grounded with a 2 AWG cable to the body. That bolt holds the drawers in the truck and I used dielectric grease and a star washer on the bolt.

This is the forward side panel from the fit kit, passenger side. I scored the carpet, peeled it off, and used a saber saw to cope out the hole for the Blue Sea water-resistant accessory panel (p/n 4368). These are spendy but worth it. I've tried some of the generics in the past with mixed results. These just work. The ARB plug is wired with a chuck of the ARB-provided refrigerator harness, and the accessory panel is wired with 10 AWG with heat shrink connectors at both ends. I really went back and forth as to using the ARB plug and harness but decided a dedicated fridge circuit with high-quality wire was the best bet. 15 amp fuse for the fridge and 10 amp for the accessory panel.

 

[RKRUGER]

To do list:
Wire up ARB LED fog lamps and IPF driving lights
Organize drawer set
Determine need or viability for second power source (lithium) in the rear cabin area
Shakedown run end of the month

 

[RKRUGER]

Thinking about an HDPE tailgate cover and looking at the Mountain Hatch or the Adventure Ready. I like the spill ring on the Adventure Ready but not certain I am sold on white... but the black I've been told can get excessively hot.

Any feedback from the converted?

 

[LndXrsr]

I have a black mountain hatch. Definitely nicer than carpet. It’s a bit slippery, never felt it’s too hot though. I’d check out the TrekBoxx options as well, although I’ve never experienced one in person.

 

[RKRUGER]

I spoke to the folks at Adventure Ready and their stock on 100 series was out. They do have 80 series in stock. So I placed the order yesterday with Mountain Hatch. @LndXrsr how have the plastic push pins held up?

 

[LndXrsr]

They're fine. That's one of the reasons the TrekBoxx was appealing: screws with expander nuts. The dirt getting down in the push pin wells is more irritating than anything.

 

[leucadiacruiser]

Great writeup on the drawer setup. I'm eyeing the idential kit and was wondering what to do about finishing the mid height drawer.

 

[RKRUGER]

@leucadiacruiser I hear ya. It comes down to “might as well”. First you have a fridge, then you might as well buy a slide...or might as well have a drawer under the slide... 5” drawer, 8”drawer or 10” drawer? The mid height is like Goldilocks- just right. But then the fit kit seems like it’s out of place. Might as well modify it.

I am very happy with how it turned out. Even chopped down it is surprising what you can stuff in that side. Honestly the fiddling part was creating the step up to go over the wheel well and house the outlets. In the end, it all looks OEM.

 

[RKRUGER]

Spent some quality time on the interior today. Someone here recently posted something about at least I know the filth is my filth, and it got me thinking about the coffee, soda, and grime in between things in the center console. My truck had that wonderful “port installed” wood dash and door trim (decals) where the outer clear laminate had cracked and was yellowed. A heat gun, plastic razor knife, Deep Creep (as solvent), Simple Green, and lots of rags. Take your time. Do the work. Not a bad way to spend a cloudy 50 degree day.

 

[RKRUGER]

Mountain Hatch tailgate cover install:

1. Remove old cover
2. Optional... Clean and apply a quality paste wax to the tailgate paint and apply a wax-based rust inhibitor to the inside of the tailgate... certainly optional, but when was the last time you were in there? Probably never. I like Meguiars products for paint treatment and I use Fluid Film inside all the little nooks and crevasses.
3. Optional... I used 7/8 rubber fender washers with a 3/8” hole between the HDPE and the tailgate. The push pins hold the washers in place. Probably not going to do much but there was a dimple there so I thought I’d fill it.
4. Attach the cover with the 16 supplied automotive style push pin fasteners.
5. Test out new cup holders.

Total time could be less than 10 minutes... or you could spend an hour at it like me. Testing time may vary. I did apply some felt bumpers to keep the trim piece from catching when you close the gate. I am thinking that a beveled edge on the tailgate cover might solve the catching but I will run it this way for now.

 

[RKRUGER]

ARB Outback Drawers update:

When I was exploring options for the ARB drawers, I came across the “new” sliding table offering.

I really liked the utility of being able to have the drawer open and still have a flat workspace. Unfortunately the sliding table is not compatible with the RDRF series of drawers, so I was left to come up with something on my own.

Materials:
1/2 x 1/16 x 48 aluminum angle (cut in half)
6 self tapping machine screws
Cutting board to fit space (17 3/8” in width)

the angle is secured to the top rolled edge of the drawers and 24" is just about the entire exposed length with the drawer fully opened. I only need to drill one add'l hole on each side, that being closest to the face of the drawer. As luck would have it, ARB already had the holes spaced nicely so the board will not slide around much, as the screws provide a midway stop.

Sometimes it’s the simple things.

 

[LndXrsr]

I am thinking that a beveled edge on the tailgate cover might solve the catching but I will run it this way for now.

Bevel the first edge on the underside with a Dremel like so and it won't catch anymore:

 

[RKRUGER]

Thanks, @LndXrsr

added a Snow Peak table today. The hooks engage two 5/16 x 3/8 holes added to the Mountain Hatch tailgate cover.

 

[RKRUGER]

Made a trip this last weeks to West Mineral, Kansas. Home to the Big Iron Overland Rally, and I would say, more importantly, Big Brutus, a 5500 ton overburden excavator that was used to mine coal in the county. This was the inaugural event and the folks from MOORE (Midwest Overlanding and Off Road Expo) put together a great time. Bit more than 8 hours due south, some "trail rides", a bunch of vendors and some good music.
All of the mods thus far performed well beyond expectations and here are some photos of the event.

 

[RKRUGER]

Just a couple more. Having Big Brutus as a backdrop made for some great photos.

 

[RKRUGER]

Added Owl Expedition delete flaps to the rig. Of course this included removing the running boards. Can’t say enough good about this product. All the Tacoma boys are jealous.

Also spent some time cleaning up the side trim pieces by applying a contrasting Grey vinyl to the center stripe. Really cleaned it up.