2004 Cruiser COMPLETE loss of brakes!! ??

[bamachem]

I have no idea. I do know that if you take it to Toyota, they can cycle the ABS via the computer and make sure that you don't have air in the ABS manifold, which is extremely important. If you do it yourself, you typically have to do a proper bleed, then exercise the ABS, then another bleed, and possibly another ABS cycle followed by another bleed to ensure all air is out of the system. That's ONLY if you get air into the system to begin with by letting the level drop in the MC or do an improper bleed.

 

[steelynorm]

I'm confused...total brake failure...anyone else concerned

2000 lc owner here with a wife who drives our kids around daily.
Total system failure scares me. Does anyone else think this is a problem?

 

[uHu]

What is a problem is not to stop immediately when you get the loud continuous alarm and warning lights. It is a good idea to study the owners manual, and have it handy for reference.

The loss of brakes, - is normally that the booster fails (normally after at least 200 k miles) which gives you brakes on the front wheels only, with a requirement for a very strong foot (maybe like a 1920's truck). So, the loss is not complete - You still have a weak front brake and the E-brake.

It is a good idea to keep an eye on the booster, see that it pumps up the pressure according to specs, and keeps the pressure. Better to change before complete failure. Or maybe the brushes can be changed before they are gone? And keep the e-brake in good shape.

It's all about PM.

 

[Bawlz]

With my knowledge of brake systems I would much rather have a shop with the right equipment and knowledge do this. I will watch them do it and then consider doing it myself next round. I just want to find out if I can fix the soft pedal feel, to confirm I don't have a bigger issues (MC rebuild)

Yes, get it bled first, all symptoms point to air in the system (maybe only one or two of the calipers have a little air). I recently dealt with a similar situation on a friend's diesel Dodge pickup. Spongy pedal, wouldn't stop very good, rear ABS kicked on when mashing the pedal (rears locked up), all because there was air in the Right front line.

 

[Jody Highroller]

Same issue with my 99 last week

I ran into the same issue. Dealer will only replace the enitre assembly hence I bought the Master Cylinder rebuild kit for only $47 - it is a new piston with all new O-rings, etc. hoping this would fix my problem. After several attemps, it would still not function. My issue was that the pump motor would not kick on when it should with the key turned to "on" - I checked the pump by hooking it directly up to a 12v source and it is fine.

The issue for me is that the dealer would not put the time in to diagnose in the circuit what was keeping the pump motor from coming on - hence I had to pay the $1,800 for the part and $358 for labor to put it in. And this is what I negotiated after they told me it was going to be just over $3,000 for the same.

Yep....I'm about to bench test my pump motor. If it's good, going to attempt to find connectivity issues in solenoid box