So my the fuel gauge on my new to me LC is stuck on empty. When I crank up the gauge goes up to full, bounces a little, and then drops to dead empty. The gas light flashes on the dash as well. Which direction do I need to go as far as fixing this? Think it's just a bad wire on the sending unit, stuck float??
2001 LC fuel gauge issue
- Thread starter Ronnie Johnson
- Start date
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good luck. i have the same issue and havent resolved the problem. minor research shows it could be a dash assembly issue which requires expensive repairs by sending off the unit. i stick to the old odometer reset method after each refill
- Thread starter
- #3
That's what I've been doing every 300 miles give or take so far. Local place told the used car dealer it was only a $300/fix. Was going to look into myself first if I could.
What year is it? You could remove the sender unit and check the float, you could test the unit on the bench if the float looks good.
- Thread starter
- #5
2001, any links to removal instructions or videos? For some reason my search skills are turning up nada.
There is a service hole under the rear seats to access the sender unit.
I have the FSM for the 2000 LX, not sure how well that translates, but under the Body Electric Section there is a subsection for the Combination Meter and one of the pages therein shows how to test the dash display, and a test for the fuel sending unit - both test require an Ohm meter.
If you can check the resistance at "sender gauge connector" that would be easiest way to confirm its initial functionality. Tricky part is finding the right Ohm value to check the continuity against. If you end up pulling the sending unit, you might test it like a potentiometer or TPS, as you raise & lower the float the volts should rise & fall. Illustrations are in the FSM section: SFI, and the good stuff starts at SF8-SF14.
good luck
good luck
- Thread starter
- #9
Pulled the sending unit first to make sure the float wasn't stuck. It was free flowing. Checked the sending wire ohms on just the sending unit and it fluctuated from ~200 down to 10. IIRC 200ish was float up in full position and 10 was all the way down empty. So sending unit is fine. Left it out and started tracking the wires back towards the dash. Was able to get the same reading all the way to the fuse box and had to stop for the night. The order I checked it in was sending unit itself, wiring coupling adapter under the passenger side back door (both connectors), and then at the fuse box.
One tricky thing to notice is the wiring harness going from the sending unit to the connector under the passenger back door used yellow/black, yellow/red, and yellow/green with a grey dot about every inch. Once you connected it to the inside wiring harness that ran along the door jam all the way to the fuse the wires stayed the same color but changed to two grey dots every inch or so. That threw me off for a while.
So where I can go from there to track it down further? Do I need to pull the instrument panel and check the ohm reading on the sending wire at the gauge itself? Anyone else traced it further than the fuse panel? The fuel gauge will just up to full and sometimes drop to half a tank for a second before hitting empty. I can live without it but I really want to track it down.
One tricky thing to notice is the wiring harness going from the sending unit to the connector under the passenger back door used yellow/black, yellow/red, and yellow/green with a grey dot about every inch. Once you connected it to the inside wiring harness that ran along the door jam all the way to the fuse the wires stayed the same color but changed to two grey dots every inch or so. That threw me off for a while.
So where I can go from there to track it down further? Do I need to pull the instrument panel and check the ohm reading on the sending wire at the gauge itself? Anyone else traced it further than the fuse panel? The fuel gauge will just up to full and sometimes drop to half a tank for a second before hitting empty. I can live without it but I really want to track it down.
Per your other post, it appears the PO may have boogered up the wiring some with additional electronics. I'd try to pull the cluster, or AT LEAST try to check the wiring connectors in the lower left corner of the cluster. Could be as simple as the connector isn't seated correctly.
- Thread starter
- #11
Yes I think I agree with you. Fortunately I haven't found any cut factory wiring so far. Just several places where he/she gator clipped to splice into the factory speaker wires, accessory, etc. He/she probably...HOPEFULLY just bumped something loose. Do you have to pull the steering wheel off to remove the instrument cluster?
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I've never done it, but it doesn't sound too difficult, just be gentle...
See this thread:
Removing The Speedo Cluster Cover
The two screws in each corner I believe secure the wiring connectors to the cluster.
