2000 LC front suspension w/ARB Bumper and 9K winch

[chickon1]

I have already installed OME torsion bars and fox 2.0 shocks on the front and I have the tbars almost maxed out on the drivers side and barely have it at stock height again. The new tbars and shocks definitely helped with the ride and weight compared to the factory. It bottoms out pretty easy if hit a shallow hole on a dirt road. Wondering if I should take the tbars back out and reindex them again. I went about 8 splines on the install. I don't want to Jack it way up, just enough to ride better on dirt roads and not mess with the geometry. I'm not against the diff drop if need be.

I'm at 19 1/2 in from the center to the fender with 285/75/16s

 

[knewstance]

19 1/2" is where I was at stock. If you like that height, no need for a diff drop since your CV axles will be at the same angle as stock.

If you are having issues bottoming out easily, that would indicate that you do not have enough droop. Should be 50-60mm (~2-2.5"). This would be corrected by reindexing your TB.

Do you have any kind of suspension changes in the rear?

 

[Cola]

I have already installed OME torsion bars and fox 2.0 shocks on the front and I have the tbars almost maxed out on the drivers side and barely have it at stock height again. The new tbars and shocks definitely helped with the ride and weight compared to the factory. It bottoms out pretty easy if hit a shallow hole on a dirt road. Wondering if I should take the tbars back out and reindex them again. I went about 8 splines on the install. I don't want to Jack it way up, just enough to ride better on dirt roads and not mess with the geometry. I'm not against the diff drop if need be.

I'm at 19 1/2 in from the center to the fender with 285/75/16s

You need to measure your droop. Measure to fender lip then jack up and measure again. 50-60 mm is what you want for droop. If you have more then you are reducing your up travel (why you're bottoming out) and you have too much down travel. Solution: raise the front until you get 60mm of droop.

Unfortunately that means reindexing your bars. But absolutely worth it. Didn't spend all that money to have a crappy ride, right?

 

[Cola]

19 1/2" is where I was at stock. If you like that height, no need for a diff drop since your CV axles will be at the same angle as stock.

If you are having issues bottoming out easily, that would indicate that you do not have enough droop. Should be 50-60mm (~2-2.5"). This would be corrected by reindexing your TB.

Do you have any kind of suspension changes in the rear?

I think when he says bottoming out he's referring to the suspension being fully compressed. In which case he would have too much droop and not enough up travel. But if he means his shocks reach extended length and it's jarring, then yes he doesn't have enough droop.

 

[chickon1]

Ya, basically hitting a sharp bump and like its "bottoming out " or compressed on the up stroke so it would seem I need less droop?

I'll jack her up and see what I got. I probably have an 1/8 or so of space left to move the torsion bolt. What's weird I never got any sag from them like most people state about an inch, been the same since I installed them.

 

[chickon1]

Knewstance.. Nothing in the rear. I'm not loading it down with anything, but I plan on putting new shocks back there. What you thinking?

108 mm difference.
19 1/2 - 23 3/4.. So I need to raise it about 2 1/4 ins ?

What is the max indexing you can do with the OMEs? I know there's a physical limit to where you can't get the bolt back in.. Probably need to go almost to that point, the weight of this bumper and winch are ridiculous.

I'm seriously thinking about cutting the top tube and arms off the bumper and making the top flush like Cola's. It was on there when I bought it and I really don't like that style much. I'm sure that would drop a 100lbs or so.

 

[gatormark91]

Pay no attention to the number of splines recommended. Disconnect the bars from the control arms. Back out the adjuster bolts almost all the way. Zip tie the brackets at the back tight up to the frame, and re-install the bars. If you do it this way, you get absolutely ALL the adjustment that the front end is capable of, and you'll have no problem adjusting the height right up until minimum droop.

 

[gatormark91]

If you are running stock rear springs or 1.5" lift springs, you don't need to measure droop if you use this measurement:

The rear fender to hub center measurement should be about 1.5" more than the front. So if you have stock or 1.5" springs, and your bars are indexed right, set the front measurement so it's about 1.5" less than the rear, and you are done. If you are running 2.5" lift in the rear, this simplified method doesn't work, you need to measure droop.

 

[chickon1]

Gotcha, thanks for the info..

 

[chickon1]

So much easier the second time doing this. Took like 15 mins. Went a bit aggressive on the first try, pretty much set it to the bolt almost all the way out. Got it up to 20 1/2 and it was hanging down pretty bad, pop it off went back a couple of splines.. gtg. I left it at 20 1/2 because the back in setting at 21. probably sagged a bit over the years.

Do you know about where the rear should set at? May just get some OEM height coils

 

[atnolan94]

The t bars will settle so leave some room to adjust back up when they do.

Rear stock should be 20.5" or 21" Stock unloaded. Maybe a hair less or more with third row in or out. Try to leave a good inch or so of rake, these 100s tend to track a little better with a tiny bit of rake. So you may just jump to a lighter OME coil like the 2865.