200 LC thermostat or else? (1 Viewer)

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replace new OEM ("eBay") thermostat on my 200 LC as a preventive action.
did all by the book!
problem! sucking all coolant from reserve tank on cold as suppose to , but then runs normal hot dumping all back into reservoir overfill it. can not keep up coolant between low and High mark always empty car is not overheating also coolant are Toyota OEM (not eBay) 50/50 .
any clues?
 
Have you got all the air out of the system?
I always use this tool on all my vehicles to refill and never had a problem.
Lisle 24680 spill-free coolant funnel - it is a lot more than just a funnel.
 
Have you got all the air out of the system?
I always use this tool on all my vehicles to refill and never had a problem.
Lisle 24680 spill-free coolant funnel - it is a lot more than just a funnel.
ya I did massage the upper hose.
 
There are numerous threads on Mud about getting the air out the cooling system. It takes some effort on the 200 series because of the rear HVAC. Run a search on Google using ih8mud in the search term. Also, I assume you know the Toyota SLLC coolant is ready to use, it does not need 50/50 diluting.
 
There are numerous threads on Mud about getting the air out the cooling system. It takes some effort on the 200 series because of the rear HVAC. Run a search on Google using ih8mud in the search term. Also, I assume you know the Toyota SLLC coolant is ready to use, it does not need 50/50 diluting.
not sure what you said: Toyota sales 50/50 and full strength that need to be deluded OK on that, can you pl hint me how HVAC plays role on coolant not familiar on the relation on 200LC.
 
Toyota does not sell the correct coolant for our vehicles in full-strength that still needs to be diluted. They only sell the specified pink “SLLC” coolant in 50/50.

Your vehicle uses hot coolant from the engine to provide heat to the rear HVAC. Those lines to the rear heater are long, below the vehicle, and have a lot of bends. And the rear heater core is a high spot that can trap air. If you drained much of the coolant from the rear lines, or air from other work made it back there, it can really help to drive around in a lower gear with sustained RPMs to push the air out of the high spots and back to the front where it should end up in the overflow reservoir.

Also in general I try to do big jobs that require coolant drains with the nose of the vehicle pointed up, when possible. For the initial refill and purge this helps the air make it out of the upper hose and into the radiator where it can escape as intended.
 
Toyota does not sell the correct coolant for our vehicles in full-strength that still needs to be diluted. They only sell the specified pink “SLLC” coolant in 50/50.

Your vehicle uses hot coolant from the engine to provide heat to the rear HVAC. Those lines to the rear heater are long, below the vehicle, and have a lot of bends. And the rear heater core is a high spot that can trap air. If you drained much of the coolant from the rear lines, or air from other work made it back there, it can really help to drive around in a lower gear with sustained RPMs to push the air out of the high spots and back to the front where it should end up in the overflow reservoir.

Also in general I try to do big jobs that require coolant drains with the nose of the vehicle pointed up, when possible. For the initial refill and purge this helps the air make it out of the upper hose and into the radiator where it can escape as intended.
TY for the info learn as I go . I did not know that my rig need PINK not RED coolant
 
Also in general I try to do big jobs that require coolant drains with the nose of the vehicle pointed up, when possible. For the initial refill and purge this helps the air make it out of the upper hose and into the radiator where it can escape as intended.
Good point and another valuable learning. Thanks a lot Bloc, keep up the great contributions to this forum.
 

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