1kzte oil bypass?
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I can't say I know the kzte but I put an oil bypass filter on my 2h. A local fellow lathed aircraft aluminium into what is called a sandwich which fits between the oil filter and oil filter housing with an extended threaded spindle. It has something like 2x npt outlets and a bsp one. From the sandwich a hose leads to a filter housing which holds what looks like a fancy toilet roll. I use the other two outlets for an electrical oil pressure gauge and another for a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Oil return goes through the filler cap, so you can change oil whilst the car is running if you wanted. For a period I would remove 200ml and top up with fresh oil, but then you have sump oil to deal with. Some put it into the fuel tank but I hate to think what it does to injectors.
I like the concept, apparently the germans wanted to get from europe to argentinia without having to stop for oil changes in submarines after wwii.
Been running it for about 180k kms, installed it at 180k kms. But, due to adding extra opportunities for oil leaks and or weeps, sometimes I wonder if it was worth the set up. Every connection, every o ring..
But it has done ok for about 5-6 years now. The oil still gets dirty of course, it must help but I don't have another engine to compare to without a bypass. My rear main oil seal needs replacing and I probably should put some fresh injectors in, valve seals would be good to freshen up to...
I get average of 10km per liter, so pretty happy on the freeway, 90kmh, 2-2100rpm. I have not heard of many getting such fuel consumption , so maybe it helps. Best is 8.9l for 100km, in a troopy, light load.
I gave a happy rave about it when I first installed it on mud, thought I was real clever. But there is nearly always something else on old cars. Most trucks have oil bypass filters, the early 2h even came factory with an oil spinner.
The combo of oil spinner and bypass filter is meant to be the ultimate, which is a major investment which could buy copious amounts of oil. Nothing beats fresh oil. Some folks change oil back to back 3x to clean the internals without fancy chemicals.
I still change my oil every 5k kms regardless, always stocking up when 10l is on special. Oil is cheap in the world of motor maintenance. One of my friends has over 600k kms on an 80's hilux, petrol, country miles only, so it says a lot for 5000km oil changes.
There are a few mobs like amsoil, frantz, which sell kits especially in the states, probably for your engine if you hunt around. Some have the return line going to the sump. I have jackmaster, he lives down the road from me, but he is a one man show and was ancient 6 years ago, very clever fellow.
Grand scheme a point to note is if the initial investment will last the life of the vehicle, rust, other major parts or an accident ride off.
I am building a second 2h, it has the sandwich, as I love accurate oil pressure readings alongside temp of coolant, then I can turn the tunes up. But I baulk at the cost of a bypass filter now a day, probably 3x what i paid initially. Handy to get enough filters for it, orings etc to last a million kms too.
If money is not an issue go for it. Could just buy a lot of oil and change very frequently too. It did seem to work better initially, but it may be my injectors.
I like the concept, apparently the germans wanted to get from europe to argentinia without having to stop for oil changes in submarines after wwii.
Been running it for about 180k kms, installed it at 180k kms. But, due to adding extra opportunities for oil leaks and or weeps, sometimes I wonder if it was worth the set up. Every connection, every o ring..
But it has done ok for about 5-6 years now. The oil still gets dirty of course, it must help but I don't have another engine to compare to without a bypass. My rear main oil seal needs replacing and I probably should put some fresh injectors in, valve seals would be good to freshen up to...
I get average of 10km per liter, so pretty happy on the freeway, 90kmh, 2-2100rpm. I have not heard of many getting such fuel consumption , so maybe it helps. Best is 8.9l for 100km, in a troopy, light load.
I gave a happy rave about it when I first installed it on mud, thought I was real clever. But there is nearly always something else on old cars. Most trucks have oil bypass filters, the early 2h even came factory with an oil spinner.
The combo of oil spinner and bypass filter is meant to be the ultimate, which is a major investment which could buy copious amounts of oil. Nothing beats fresh oil. Some folks change oil back to back 3x to clean the internals without fancy chemicals.
I still change my oil every 5k kms regardless, always stocking up when 10l is on special. Oil is cheap in the world of motor maintenance. One of my friends has over 600k kms on an 80's hilux, petrol, country miles only, so it says a lot for 5000km oil changes.
There are a few mobs like amsoil, frantz, which sell kits especially in the states, probably for your engine if you hunt around. Some have the return line going to the sump. I have jackmaster, he lives down the road from me, but he is a one man show and was ancient 6 years ago, very clever fellow.
Grand scheme a point to note is if the initial investment will last the life of the vehicle, rust, other major parts or an accident ride off.
I am building a second 2h, it has the sandwich, as I love accurate oil pressure readings alongside temp of coolant, then I can turn the tunes up. But I baulk at the cost of a bypass filter now a day, probably 3x what i paid initially. Handy to get enough filters for it, orings etc to last a million kms too.
If money is not an issue go for it. Could just buy a lot of oil and change very frequently too. It did seem to work better initially, but it may be my injectors.
What's the goal? Lower cost/mile with extended drain intervals?
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- #4
Cleaner oil. A lot of my buddies in the Cummins/duramax scene use them. Figured it would be a good addition to reduce stray particles contaminating my oil. What’s your thoughts?
If you're going to use a bypass filter to extend your oil change intervals and lower operating costs, great. If you're going to keep changing at 5k km's, I wouldn't bother. Use a decent oil and change it as specified by the manual, and oil related failures won't be what limits the life of your engine.
I have to admit I'm not sure on the changing the filter every other oil change thing, even though that's what the manual says to do. Doing some testing and UOA's to decide.
I have to admit I'm not sure on the changing the filter every other oil change thing, even though that's what the manual says to do. Doing some testing and UOA's to decide.
I would say it is a big difference of say 5k kms city driving to freeway driving. Under 2000 rpm the engine produces much more carbon which dirties the oil much quicker. Idling at traffic lights is not good.
A simple way to see how much carbon is building in oil is wipe a bit from the dipstick onto white paper and hold it to the sun.
Must admit , I was impressed when I first installed the bypass, I could do a 1000km with minimal stops and the oil was still pretty clean. Much cleaner than without the bypass.
Everynow and then it is good to remove the rocker cover whilst changing oil and clean the top of the head. Some may use seafoam etc., I reckon fresh oil with a brush is gentler.
A simple way to see how much carbon is building in oil is wipe a bit from the dipstick onto white paper and hold it to the sun.
Must admit , I was impressed when I first installed the bypass, I could do a 1000km with minimal stops and the oil was still pretty clean. Much cleaner than without the bypass.
Everynow and then it is good to remove the rocker cover whilst changing oil and clean the top of the head. Some may use seafoam etc., I reckon fresh oil with a brush is gentler.
With decent quality oil and appropriate oil change intervals, this shouldn't be needed at all. If you're getting carbon buildup, something else isn't right.
Is it possible for a rocker train over 300k kms not to have any carbon? I was under the impression that combustion produced carbon and therefore inevitable . The reason hot oil gasses traveling through the breather hose from valve cover to intake manifold is too minimise these gasses which contain carbon.
Valve seals and condition of valve seats also helps. But some gasses still pass from the lifters I believe, and every time a valve opens. This is on a 2h, indirect injection, which produces more carbon than direct injection. I have not seen a valve train without some carbon buildup personally on an engine over 300k km. Is this possible?
My bypass return is on the filler cap, so the rockers below that are pretty clean, even a little shiny, but the other rockers have a slight carbon build from the combusted oil gasses. I even imagined building a treacle bridge into the valve cover so the fresh oil flushed all the rockers, rather than just the ones under the filler cap.
Why i feel it is good to clean the valve train with rockers every now again.
But, admittedly if I freshened my valve seals, it may help, but I do not think that gas containing carbon in the valve cover can be eliminated.?
I do get 9l/100km fuel consumption for a troopy which I think it is pretty good. I think the bypass filter does help with this along with driving 90-95 kmh on the fwy and keeping revs 2-2100 rpm. Relatively healthy injectors.
I think the kzte is in some of the hiluxes? I met a guy who gets just over 7l/100km in that. But that is in much newer, lower ks than my troopy.
Not trying to be a smart a, but my present understanding. I do know my oil is cleaner with the bypass, this is for sure. But overall the longest living engines do long , unstressed distances and are kept warm, even without a bypass filter. Things wear the most when warming up the engine from cold.
Valve seals and condition of valve seats also helps. But some gasses still pass from the lifters I believe, and every time a valve opens. This is on a 2h, indirect injection, which produces more carbon than direct injection. I have not seen a valve train without some carbon buildup personally on an engine over 300k km. Is this possible?
My bypass return is on the filler cap, so the rockers below that are pretty clean, even a little shiny, but the other rockers have a slight carbon build from the combusted oil gasses. I even imagined building a treacle bridge into the valve cover so the fresh oil flushed all the rockers, rather than just the ones under the filler cap.
Why i feel it is good to clean the valve train with rockers every now again.
But, admittedly if I freshened my valve seals, it may help, but I do not think that gas containing carbon in the valve cover can be eliminated.?
I do get 9l/100km fuel consumption for a troopy which I think it is pretty good. I think the bypass filter does help with this along with driving 90-95 kmh on the fwy and keeping revs 2-2100 rpm. Relatively healthy injectors.
I think the kzte is in some of the hiluxes? I met a guy who gets just over 7l/100km in that. But that is in much newer, lower ks than my troopy.
Not trying to be a smart a, but my present understanding. I do know my oil is cleaner with the bypass, this is for sure. But overall the longest living engines do long , unstressed distances and are kept warm, even without a bypass filter. Things wear the most when warming up the engine from cold.
