1HZ vs 1HD FTE Economy.

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Where did you get that and can you give figures? It doesn't seem to make much sense...

I think what he means is the max fuel delivery curve tapers off toward the rev limit. As VE drops and your fuel takes more crank angle to burn at higher rpm less fuel can be burnt while keeping EGT's under control.
 
83BJ60

One thing to remember regarding the power capability of the 1hz/1hd family of engines, is the fact that Yanmar uses the 1HD as their 6LP series of marine engines, and rates the various configurations between 260 and 315 hp peak.
http://www.yanmarmarine.com/products/product_lp.php

I'm not aware of the internal modifications, if any, that are made to the engines, but they are inter-cooled.

I sure would like to have 315 hp available in my 73.:D

Jim

There're two things that make it easy to get more power in a marine engine.

First one is drivability. They don't have the same need for high boost at low RPM that a 4wd does, so they can use bigger turbos for less restriction at higher rpm.
The second one is cooling. An endless source of cold water for your intercooler can do wonders for cramming more dense and cold air into the engine.
 
83BJ60

One thing to remember regarding the power capability of the 1hz/1hd family of engines, is the fact that Yanmar uses the 1HD as their 6LP series of marine engines, and rates the various configurations between 260 and 315 hp peak.
http://www.yanmarmarine.com/products/product_lp.php

I was aware the Yanmars used 1HD blocks and am not surprised, especially after looking at the crankshaft when I changed the BEBs. The bottom end should be able to take it.

Thanks for the link, I'll have a look :)
 
I think what he means is the max fuel delivery curve tapers off toward the rev limit. As VE drops and your fuel takes more crank angle to burn at higher rpm less fuel can be burnt while keeping EGT's under control.

That makes perfect sense! :)
 
There're two things that make it easy to get more power in a marine engine.

First one is drivability. They don't have the same need for high boost at low RPM that a 4wd does, so they can use bigger turbos for less restriction at higher rpm.
The second one is cooling. An endless source of cold water for your intercooler can do wonders for cramming more dense and cold air into the engine.

Bigger turbo for higher HP output high in the RPM range, makes perfect sense :) maybe with a second turbo we could get there ourselves, maybe Paulo has a biturbo setup kicking around from his Skyline I could use :D

As for the water cooled turbo, I was browsing the other day and read about a water spray system - the poster did not specify if it was to cool the air itself (water-injection like) or if it was to cool off the fins of the intercooler from the outside... ??? Evaporating water from the fins of the intercooler could surely drop the charge air temperature substantially... But is true water injection a viable option for diesels, has it ever been done?
 
But is true water injection a viable option for diesels, has it ever been done?

Sure it's been done. But mostly on sled pullers and other engines running very high boost. To work best you need to have the boost temps above boiling point, which is 12-15psi minimum. Sled pullers are often running 3 figures of boost.

Water injection is one of the riskier things to add to a diesel. The chance of hydraulicly locking your engine is always there.
 
Dougal said:
Water injection is one of the riskier things to add to a diesel. The chance of hydraulicly locking your engine is always there.

I can undesrstand hydrolocking in a drowned engine (water entering through the exhaust), but considering the minute amounts injected in the air stream and the expected atomization at the injection nozzle, wouldn't hydrolocking seem unlikely? Unless the injection is not metered...

On second thought, I think that atomization on the cooling fins is probbaly going to be much safer and maybe may sufficiently effective to reduce compressed air temperature even further by extra cooling due to vaporization... Hmmm... a windshield washed motor would probably do the trick!

Nice thoughts, but I better get back to the real world now ;)
 
I can undesrstand hydrolocking in a drowned engine (water entering through the exhaust), but considering the minute amounts injected in the air stream and the expected atomization at the injection nozzle, wouldn't hydrolocking seem unlikely? Unless the injection is not metered...

On second thought, I think that atomization on the cooling fins is probbaly going to be much safer and maybe may sufficiently effective to reduce compressed air temperature even further by extra cooling due to vaporization... Hmmm... a windshield washed motor would probably do the trick!

Nice thoughts, but I better get back to the real world now ;)

Your only concerns with hydrolocking is when something goes wrong.
Check out garden sprinkler systems for cheap intercooler spray nozzles.
 
Dougal, do you know how much water such an external spay mister would consume per hour? It may require quite a large tank...

Anyway for winter use it would have to be antifreeze windshied wahing fluid which is not bad, as it would cool even better beacsue of the methyl alcool content...
 
Dougal, do you know how much water such an external spay mister would consume per hour?

No I don't, there is such a wide variation in nozzles, pumps etc that a guess would be hazardous.
Probably best to find a suitable pump (some headlight wash pumps are much larger than window washer pumps) then buy an assortment of nozzles and test.

If it's cold enough to freeze your water spray, your intercooler might not need it.
 
If it's cold enough to freeze your water spray, your intercooler might not need it.
Yeah... It is for five months out of the year!!! I was just noticing sitting down at the computer how nippy it's become as we haven't started heating yet...
 
as an apprentice diesel fitter with caterpillar we all got a few months in the fuel room building pumps and injectors, then testing the pumps on the test bench, this involves running them at various speeds and loads. to test the result you measure the volume delivered into test guages (graduated cylinders) from this you can see the amount of fuel per shot at given speeds and loads. by shot i mean a single squirt of the barrel and plunger, at low idle (idle) it is more than at hi idle (max no load speed), volume at full load per shot is more than this again depends on the engine and the rated horse power.
it is often confusing if you think of fuel burned per minute at a given speed, hi speed=more smaller shots per minute than at idle

the inertia of the rotating mass of the engine dictates that at idle it requires more fuel per shot to maintain its speed, the flywheel efect helps to do the work.
 
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orf0002

Hello everyone,

This is a little bit off topic but still has to do with the FTE engine.

I have a HZJ105 which has been a great workhorse for many years but the engine is getting a bit tired. I have access to a 1HD-FTE engine. Can anyone tell me who I can talk to who has done this conversion or can do it for me?

Research so far tells me there is significant electrical work required make this function as the full electronic injection system. I think this is to install the fly by wire throttle and somehow get around the engine immobiliser, don't know if there are any other issues.

Alternatively I believe it is possible to convert the pump to a mechanical injection pump, has anyone done this or know what is involved. As far as i can tell, some other things that will be required are, a new exhaust system, an intercooler, and possibly a new clutch and gearbox from a 4.5 litre petrol cruiser.

Any information would be great.

Thanks,
orf0002
 
How similar is your 1HZ pump to the 1HD-FTE pump?

It may be cost effective to get your mechanical 1HZ pump rebuilt, bigger plungers fitted and a boost compensator. Essentially building a 1HD-FT pump from the 1HZ item.
 
Many owners who have done swap this opt to fit the pump off a 1HD FT which has less electronics
,but Ive heard these pumps are getting very hard to come by(they were never falling out of the sky anyway).
Maybe a 1HD T pump would work.
There is a few who have done this exact swap on 70scool.

Are you in oz?
 
My HZJ77 last summer was running anywhere from 10.3-10.6L/100kms on highway runs at 100kms/h
285/75/16 tire

I keep that steady speed. Obviously more hills fuel economy goes down and so does wheeling, stop go s***.
Pretty consistant 11l/100kms with what I do summer wise highway/wheeling.

I did a challenge one day gas station to gas station driving 80kms/h for 150 kms and I got 9.3l/100kms
Could have gotten better as I realized while on the highway I forgot something, turned around and got it.

I have heard of people getting 8.5L/100kms driving that speed.

My 81 when I owned it would get basically the same fuel economy as my HZJ77.

We will see how the turbo plays out. I hear you can save 1L/100kms from it if tuned correctly with a sane person behind the wheel.
 

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