1hz rebuild without pulling engine (1 Viewer)

[GERmechanic]

Hey guys,
I'm thinking of rebuilding my troopy 1hz without pulling the engine!

Do you guys reckon that will work without any problems?

 

[CharlesHS]

Rebuilding the engine without pulling the block will depend upon how extensive the rebuild will be.
If you do not intend to have each cylinder bored and the block boiled out; then you probably can accomplish the rebuild without pulling the block.

 

[FJBen]

Well, you can probably do it, but why? The time you spend messing around, trying to squeeze in different places, lean over the fenders and around the axles is time you could pull the engine. Then you can clean your engine bay, replace clutch, rear main seal and have it on a stand to easily work on it.

I had the same dilemma when I got my BJ74. I could have rebuilt it with the block still in, but decided to pull it which was 100% the right decision considering the machine work it needed and just the ease of rebuilding it and making sure everything was within spec.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Whats the problem with it as it is, and what parts do you planning on replacing?

 

[roscoFJ73]

Is that Maya in W Aust?

 

[GERmechanic]

Whats the problem with it as it is, and what parts do you planning on replacing?

Planning on new pistons and rings, waterpump, Timingbelt. She has a slight blow-by.

And yes it is Maya, WA

Well, you can probably do it, but why? The time you spend messing around, trying to squeeze in different places, lean over the fenders and around the axles is time you could pull the engine. Then you can clean your engine bay, replace clutch, rear main seal and have it on a stand to easily work on it.

I had the same dilemma when I got my BJ74. I could have rebuilt it with the block still in, but decided to pull it which was 100% the right decision considering the machine work it needed and just the ease of rebuilding it and making sure everything was within spec.

Unfortunately I have nothing that could lift that engine out of its place.

 

[GERmechanic]

Rebuilding the engine without pulling the block will depend upon how extensive the rebuild will be.
If you do not intend to have each cylinder bored and the block boiled out; then you probably can accomplish the rebuild without pulling the block.

I would love to do it that way, but my workshop is approx 14000km away.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Planning on new pistons and rings, waterpump, Timingbelt. She has a slight blow-by.

It depends on how bad the bore is and how long you intend keeping it. Those piston and ring jobs have notoriously short lifespans. How many klms has it done?
The complete kits from Engines Australia are cheap and surely a half ton block and tackle wouldnt break the bank. There would a machinist in Geraldton that could do the work.

 

[FJBen]

Planning on new pistons and rings, waterpump, Timingbelt. She has a slight blow-by.

And yes it is Maya, WA




Unfortunately I have nothing that could lift that engine out of its place.

$44.00 on amazon

I'm not sure the prices down there, but you can get a cherry picker/engine leveler for ~$250USD. Thats cheap to make sure the job is done right. Plus you can sell it afterwords for probably 1/2 of what you bought it for.

 

[GERmechanic]

Just ordered one of those chainblocks on Ebay. That'll do the job.
Thanks a lot!

Going to ring a machine shop up in Geradton.
What do you guys reckon cost getting the block machined ?

 

[FJBen]

Just ordered one of those chainblocks on Ebay. That'll do the job.
Thanks a lot!

Going to ring a machine shop up in Geradton.
What do you guys reckon cost getting the block machined ?

I'd say depends on what all needs done to it. Here's a breakdown of what was done at the machine shop on mine. There were a few extra costs on mine due to mistakes a previous shop did before I purchased the BJ74. Engine was in process of getting rebuilt.

This is just the labor:
Clean block and some accessories (jet wash) $175
Resurface block $150
Reface Rocker arms $26
Crankshaft grind, polish/size rods, .25mm $175
Con rods resize $160 (previous shop messed these up)
Bushings R&R, fit pins and con rods $200 (previous shop messed these up)
Cam bearings, frost plugs $75
Machine counter bore $220 (makes sure piston liners have correct and even protrusion)
Assemble short block $300 (had him install crank, con-rods, bearing caps)
R&R Pistons $20 (previous shop installed wrist pins wrong, messed up)
R&R Piston Liners $85
Machine no longer available frost plugs $65

The head was also "rebuilt" by a previous shop but they did a crappy job and he went back through and refreshed it and new freeze plugs. I had $1,800 in machine shop costs, plus $150ish for CAM polish. So you could be into it for much cheaper if a lot of that work doesn't need done/re-done.

I will say, the engine runs excellent.

 

[roscoFJ73]

They dont use liners or jackets unless the the bore is damaged, they will just go to the next oversize in piston and rings. I think the machining is around $1500. But it depends on how much is done. I got my manifolds planed true (the 1HZ manifolds can get a long way out of speck) and had the flywheel machined as well.