1HZ engine oil

e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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welcome to the forum!
Always glad to see 105s in the 100 section, stick around, but you'll have more luck in the Diesel section with this thread, I'll move it there.
As far as Dino vs synth in general, the consensus seems to be that short of extremely demanding conditions, both are fine, except that you have to change the dino much more frequently and that the synth is much more costly. But there are some very good dino oils.
Then again, I don't know anything much about Diesel engines.
Good luck.
 

HZJ60 Guy

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SYNTHETIC, SYNTHETIC, SYNTHETIC.

Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel Oil.
Mobil Delvac One.

Synthetic is the only way to go if you care about your engine. It is so far superior to dyno oil it isnt even comparible.

Good luck.
 
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Delo CXJ Multigrade

Description

High performance, SAE 15W-40 multigrade diesel engine oil specially designed with a finely tuned balance of detergency and dispersancy to lubricate a wide range of Japanese high speed diesel engines operating under the most severe conditions. Particularly suitable for engines requiring lubricants characterised by relatively high levels of sulfated ash and alkalinity reserve which meet JASO DH-1, “Japanese CD Plus” or API CF performance.

RECOMMENDED FOR

High speed, four stroke, turbocharged or naturally aspirated, direct or indirect injection Japanese diesel engines.

Japanese diesel engines operating on fuels with sulfur contents up to 0.8%m (above this level, appropriate oil drain intervals are required).

Trucks and buses.

Light commercial vehicles, and taxi cab, four wheel drive and passenger car diesels.

Off highway vehicles and plant.

Agricultural tractors and equipment.

Small diesel engines in marine service such as fishing and river transport.

Generator sets.

Powershift transmissions and mobile hydraulic systems, where oil type and viscosity are appropriate.


PRODUCT BENEFITS

Extended oil drain intervals:
Balanced detergent/dispersant additive system provides exceptional control of soot thickening that can limit oil drain intervals in Japanese engines. Formulation designed around Japanese domestic oils enables extension of the lower oil drain intervals normally specified by Japanese manufacturers for service with lower quality oils outside of Japan. High level of alkalinity reserve provides longer protection against fuel sulfur acids formed during combustion.

Flexibility with maintenance schedules:
Capability to modify oil drain intervals provides more flexibility with maintenance schedules, depending on operational requirements and availability of mechanics, etc.

Reduces overall maintenance costs:
Finely balanced dispersancy maintains piston undercrown cleanliness, allowing heat transfer from the piston undercrown into the oil and relieving piston skirt thermal stress. Detergent additive system minimises piston crown land and ring deposits. Metallo-organic antiwear additive system protects against wear. Multigrade viscosity ensures reduced friction at start up and maximum lubricity at high operating temperatures.

Low oil consumption:
Highly shear stable viscosity index improvers maintain oil viscosity in the high temperature ring belt area, preventing oil flow through the rings.

PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS

SAE 15W/40
JASO DH-1
API CF
Japanese CD and CD "Plus" industry guidelines
Double length Mitsubishi 4D34T4 wear test

KEY PROPERTIES
Density at 15°C, kg/L 0.895
Base No., D2896, mgKOH/g 15.0
Base No., D4739, mgKOH/g 13.9
Sulfated Ash, %m 2.0
Viscosity, cSt at 40°C 113
Viscosity, cSt at 100°C 15.1
Viscosity Index 139
Zinc, %m 0.17


ENVIRONMENT, HEALTH AND SAFETY

Click here to view the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for this product. Users should consult the MSDS, follow the precautions outlined and comply with all laws and regulations concerning its use and disposal. Used packaging material should not be incinerated or exposed to flame. After use, protect your environment. Do not pollute drains, soil or water with used product.

OTHER INFORMATION

For further information on Caltex products and services call the Lubelink Advisory Service on 1300 364 169 between 8.00 am and 6.00 pm (EST) Monday to Friday.

All reasonable care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this publication is accurate at the time of printing. However, the information is liable to variation in the event of subsequent changes in the blend, formulation, method of storage, improper handling and usage etc.


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I have had 1HZ's since 1991 and have always ran Castrol 15w 40 mineral based for Aussie conditions changed every 5000kms with a new filter with no dramas what so ever.
Now I have a new 105 I am running Castol semi synthetic with better results changing oil and filter every 7000kms.
The dealer i buy my oil from is using the fully synthetic oil, and claims to be getting 18000kms per change, (he gets his oil tested)
Hope this helps
 

HZJ60 Guy

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That's the thing about synthetic oil. With proper filtration you CAN safely extend drain intervals. If youre going to go much beyond 5000klm you should change your oil filter so that the extended oil gets good filtration. What you should do is add in a bypass engine oil filter. The standard oil filter passes 100% of the oil ever 60 seconds or so. The bypass filter passes the oil every ten minutes or so. A standard oil filter is good for around 25+ microns. Many bypass oil filters are good for LESS than 4 microns!!!!

Here is a pic of the Amsoil bypass filter in my 2001 TDI Bora.
TDI bypass oil filter.jpg
 
Last edited:

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
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Welcome Giacomo ..

I always use mineral oil .. I prefeer change it sonner ( at most 3K km ) than later with a expensive oil on my 2 turbo cruisers ..
 

HZJ60 Guy

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Welcome Giacomo ..

I always use mineral oil .. I prefeer change it sonner ( at most 3K km ) than later with a expensive oil on my 2 turbo cruisers ..


There are always hold overs! Ole Tap appears to be one of them... The lubricating properties of a good synthetic are a few dozen times better than ole dyno whether you change it early or not. 20,000 mile synthetic is better oil than NEW dyno!


:cheers:
 
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There are always hold overs! Ole Tap appears to be one of them... The lubricating properties of a good synthetic are a few dozen times better than ole dyno whether you change it early or not. 20,000 mile synthetic is better oil than NEW dyno!


:cheers:

Not when it's full of soot [carbon] from a 3B or 2H especially a worn one. Better to change it more often. Also try taking into account that synthetic oil is often 4 times the price of dyno in some countries.
 
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There are always hold overs! Ole Tap appears to be one of them... The lubricating properties of a good synthetic are a few dozen times better than ole dyno whether you change it early or not. 20,000 mile synthetic is better oil than NEW dyno!


:cheers:

So what happens to all the soot in the oil that cant be filtered out during its 20000 klm interval?

I like the idea of 5000klm oil and filter changes. Plenty of my friends have run their 1HZs past the 500000 klm mark on mineral oil with no noticeable loss of compression or bearing wear.
 

HZJ60 Guy

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So what happens to all the soot in the oil that cant be filtered out during its 20000 klm interval?

I like the idea of 5000klm oil and filter changes. Plenty of my friends have run their 1HZs past the 500000 klm mark on mineral oil with no noticeable loss of compression or bearing wear.


As I spoke of earlier, those kinds of oil change intervals require a bypass oil filter. They typicaly filter to less than 4 microns. Many times less than 2. Ive read oil analysis reports that state that at 20,000 miles a good synthetic often times (with the right filtration) has better lubricating properties (still) than dyno!

Also, if you extend your change interval you eliminate the cost difference as well.
 

Tapage

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Also, if you extend your change interval you eliminate the cost difference as well.

This is quite easy IMOP ..

here in Panamá I pay around 4 bucks for a Castrol 20W-50 US qtr. I need 11 for my cruisers .. it means at each change I spend 44 USD in oil plus filters. ( diesel and air sure oil ).

I run aprox 10 km at day in my 1HD-T ( that it's my DD ) in short distances, with pretty nice city downtown traffic ..

In the other hand .. my Tencha it's stoped most of the time, with luck I use it at weekends, when have a trip nice .. long run, but when not, at much 10 km on all weekend ..

I prefeeer change it each 3K or 2500 km and have reasonable new oil .. it function for me .. :D

P.S. ( 8 USD Syntetic oils ;) )
 
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As I spoke of earlier, those kinds of oil change intervals require a bypass oil filter. They typicaly filter to less than 4 microns. Many times less than 2. Ive read oil analysis reports that state that at 20,000 miles a good synthetic often times (with the right filtration) has better lubricating properties (still) than dyno!

Also, if you extend your change interval you eliminate the cost difference as well.

Dino oil is not "worn out' at 5,000 Ks either but the detergent which is added to the oil becomes saturated and ineffective. Same for synthetic the oil . The detergents and additives become saturated with coke,diesel and acids. After market filters work the same for both, pull the centrifugal filter off a HJ47 and see the crap that is in that [carbon, near tar even some water] newer after market filters now are said to be more effective. realise the newer diesel motors are more efficient in combustion and are a lot cleaner. Why do you think the 12Ht was dropped from production.
 
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You are safe with the HZ and a diesel rated dino oil, tried and true up to 5000kms, as many have mentioned.

I would not run extended drains or syth in a IDI Toy diesel, unless I had a bypass filter and oil samples for two runs that say things are good, (concerns about soot loading and acid buildup).

I would and do run syth in DI Toy diesels (both 13BT's and the 12HT) to 10,000kms, with a new filter and top up at 5000kms. Oil samples twice run up to 10,000kms confirmed all was/is ok.

I continue to run straight old dino 15/40 in my BJ42...which sees use about 4 months of the year.

Way more soot loading in the idi motors...

While synth may well be a better oil, a blanket statement that is it the ONLY one to use may not serve true in all situations imo, unless certains things are in place for the oil.

gb
 
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I run Penrite SAE 15 Diesel 15W-50 in Southern Australian Conditions, have done so for more than 100k kms and car has been 225psi down in compression across each cylinder since before then. It's going in for a rebuild now, but I'd recommend that oil to anyone.

I do -heavy- towing and have an aftermarket exhaust brake fitted to lessen the strain a bit. Car runs highway kms quite frequently.
 
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I run Penrite SAE 15 Diesel 15W-50 in Southern Australian Conditions, have done so for more than 100k kms and car has been 225psi down in compression across each cylinder since before then. It's going in for a rebuild now, but I'd recommend that oil to anyone.

I do -heavy- towing and have an aftermarket exhaust brake fitted to lessen the strain a bit. Car runs highway kms quite frequently.

My opinion only but I think that is a very heavy in winter time down there at start up. A bloke I know well here that has built a lot of engines tells me that 1HZ lifters do not work well with heavy oil in the cold weather. I agree, fine when it's hot especially towing. I use penrite 15/50 in my 2H and have done so for quite a while as after the 2H has done over 200,000 in the tropics a heavy oil is better, mines around 400K and running a safari turbo. When you have time post up a picture of your exhaust brake set up if you have not done so previous.cheers :beer: :beer:
 
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Hey Guys,

I've read on this thread that some of you may have been using mineral based oil or synthetic based oil alone, what about the issues of mixing 25% synthetic and 75% mineral? is that good for the engine? I have found that synthetic has some sort of build up due to the synthetics soap (or whatever it is that cleans tha engine). But that's what my mechanic said who has experience on working on trucks for more than 30 years. And this is what my mechanic recommended. While i would appreciate opinions, i would like to hear more from your experiences as this is based on my experience. For the past 4-5 yrs i've been running 75 mineral 25 synth and noticed that the engine sounds less noisy. Now i've tried running back on mineral and sounds more raw and loud. Reason? I read from The Car Maintenance Bibles that it is not good to mix synth and mineral?

Also since we're on the subject of mixing. Is it safe to mix brands of oil? Let's say same weight viscosity and same mineral just different brands? or same synth and viscosity but different brands?

There's so much on this subject around the web. And i think i'd rather rely from this site. Also because i couldn't understand the technical terms they use on other websites.

So if someone could explain this in simple terms please.

Cheers! :)
 

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