1HZ 24v to 12v partial conversion

Joined
May 15, 2017
Messages
112
Location
Miami, FL
Hi guys,

I keep struggling with the truck electrical system as I keep adding stuff and converters all around_ so im doing some research on the following.

Keeping the 24v Starter + ignition for the engine but changing everything else to 12v.

Most of the lights have been replaced with LED so we're good there, but as far as the rest, I think I need to replace:
  • Speedometer Console (maybe I can upgrade to a 1999+ newer that came 12v)
  • Altimeter (not worried, plenty available)
  • 4x4 Solenoids (plenty replacements available)
  • Wiper/water motor
  • AC system is already 12v
any thoughts or comments?
 
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
797
Location
Calgary
 
 
 
Been thinking the same thing for my BJ74 project... I wonder about about relays like signal light flasher, headlight relay, pre-heater and accompanying relays, intermittent wiper relay, A/C relay, fan and fan speed controls, etc.. On these older Pre-computer vehicles, there are a lot of relays tucked away in hidden places, and I wonder just how many of them there are, and whether they will work on 12V or need to be changed. 'Ignition' is compliments of compression on a diesel, but on the 1HZ, but there is a wire that sends power to a fuel cut off solenoid on the injection pump... as well as a pre-heating system.... are those that what you mean by keeping "24V ignition"?
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
522
Location
San Diego
 
There is a lot to converting a full 24v vehicle to 12v, the 80s are different, since all their components are 12v and just the starting system is 24v, whereas everything in a original 24v vehicle is 24v. That means you will have to switch everything to 12v, like gauge cluster, actuator motors, light bulbs, etc. that is a daunting task and expensive. Then you have to think about the wire sizes, since 24v components require less amps, Toyota may have used smaller gauge wires that would now be too small if running 12v.

Using a 24v system to run 12v components is not all that bad if setup correctly. Running 24v for high power things like winches and compressors is much better then 12v. I use a Vann Guard 70 to equalize batteries which allows me to pull 12v off one of the batteries without damaging them, been doing it this way for 3 years, and my batteries have always been within .1v of each other. I run a fridge, and basic 12v accessories like radio and gauges, no problem at all.
 
Joined
May 15, 2017
Messages
112
Location
Miami, FL
@Loober thanks for the input, it does make sense, a lot of stuff is easy to change, but if you think about cables capacity, thats another monster.

I can usually figure and/or troubleshoot basic stuff, but with the electrical I feel is like witchcraft, one day it works other day it doesn't.
I’ll try to find someone that can brush the cable mess I have and help me build an easy setup so I can continue to add accessories
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
522
Location
San Diego
 
If you have existing electrical gremlins, converting to 12v would require fixing them regardless, so you might as well do that anyway.
 
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