1hdt timing belt change (1 Viewer)

[franklin40]

i know this has been documented elsewhere but every thread i've looked through is old and the pictures don't show up anymore so i thought i'd document my experience.

as a word of caution im not the most knowledgable but am willing to learn so here goes. this is my first timing belt I've ever done. while its apart im also doing the water pump and ill do the "blue fan mod" while its out too (i wont document that as there are threads with good pics yet). use the FSM as most people recommend. it is actually helpful believe it or not!

first off heres the list of parts i used

Timing Belt – 13568-19065
Idler Pulley – 13505-17011
Spring Tensioner – 90507-27003
Camshaft Seal – 90311-32020
Aisin waterpump 16100-19235

this job isn't that tough but it is a pain in the butt. its a little time consuming and working in tight spaces makes for a few busted knuckles.

i started by taking my belts off and loosening the tensioners of the air conditioning and alternator to get them out of the way. taking the three power steering reservoir bolts out also gives a little more room to work around the hoses. they can all be left attached, just moving the reservoir is enough. i then removed the fan from the pump. as i don't have a spilt shroud i tried to work around the fan sitting inside the shroud. a bit tight but it worked. (i couldn't take the fan fully out until the water pump was removed).

then i removed the timing belt shroud. there are thee bolts and four clips from what i remember. inside your find the important stuff. before removing stuff line up the mark on the cam pulley as well as the one on the injection pump gear. i've painted mine white with a paint pen. this allows clearance so the cam shaft can rotate freely without any interference. you can see my mark on the top left of the picture and on the bottom right on the rear lip of the gear. use a 19 mm socket on the nut and rotate clockwise.

now remove the tensioner spring. i used a flat screwdriver placed in the spring coils and then pinched this against the post allowing the spring to snap off. i might have to get creative to put the new on back on.

now the idler pulley can be removed. there are two bolts, one is an allan head. mine still looked new but this should always be replaced from my reading as they really don't do well going to 200 000km. the belt can then be removed. theres a small plate that'll fall off behind the pulley. be prepared and keep it oriented.

next the valve cover needs to come off. this way he cam shaft can be supported with a wrench to pull the bolt holding the cam gear. with this removed (make sure the key comes too) the rear cover can be removed.

 

[franklin40]

next remove water pump bolts. and pull pump out. there is a thin metal gasket that will like be stuck to the block. i thought at first it hadn't been installed previously but looking closer it was indeed there. it needs to be removed. once i got the pump out i had room to remove the fan.

this is as far as i got today. i'll take a quick hiatus to do my fan clutch and i'll keep documenting as i reassemble it all.

 

[CruiserGord]

Gonna chime in on my experience doing this. I had a hell of time getting the tension spring back hooked back on the post. I struggled for about a good 30-45mins trying to do the screwdriver method with no luck and gashing my hand pretty good.

I gave up and wandered my garage thinking of a way to get the damn spring hooked over that post when I found an old piece of 1/4" Rigid pipe(5-6" long) laying on my bench. I used a step bit and milled out one end of the pipe till it just cupped over the post that the tension spring hooks onto. Hook spring onto pipe, stick milled end onto post and straighten pipe till it slides right onto the post. Took all of a couple minutes with making the pipe end bigger and hooking the spring on. Hope you can visualize this. If not, I can post a pic of the tool I made. Good luck!

 

[IanB]

I used a tool I built for getting snowmobile exhaust springs off/on out of a cheap flathead screwdriver and an angle grinder, like this.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I had a hell of time getting the tension spring back hooked back on the post. I struggled for about a good 30-45mins trying to do the screwdriver method with no luck and gashing my hand pretty good.

I use some electrical wire looped around the spring hook and use a screwdriver as T handle to pull on to stretch the spring. You can buy a tool for this which is probably the easiest and best way.

 

[franklin40]

speaking of tools, have a small torque wrench for the job. the water pump needs 14 ft/lbs on the small bolts which i found was too little for my 1/2 inch wrench. i torqued a bolt off in my block! crap.

i had to take the pump off again but thankfully the bolt broke in a place i could get at it with vice grips. i bought a new bolt and torque wrench today.

 

[franklin40]

new bolt in hand time to move on. clean the water pump surfaces and reinstall. small bolts to 14 ft/lbs. the two big ones with that hold the alternator bracket go to 29 ft/lbs

now the cam shaft oil seal retaining cover can be reinstalled. first change oil seal.

when changing out the seal there is a lip in the aluminum that the seal puller can catch. make sure the puller is in the seal. i put a gouge in the aluminum so i had to fill it with RTV. i now have a spot that will be a source of a leak. ill look for a new cover over the next 100 000km and change it out at the next timing belt swap. (if anyone has a 1hdt they are parting out or access to an extra cover please let me know. clean out the sealing groove against the block and the block using a non residue solvent. apply some rtv and install the cover. torque bolts to 14 ft/lbs

 

[franklin40]

next the cam shaft gear can go back on. i almost lost the key so again make sure you take it out and safe guard it when you first take the gear off. again block cam movement with a wrench and torque to 72 ft/lbs

clean and reinstall valve cover (no it look like you don’t have any leaks or blow by issues )

the second timing pulley can then be reinstalled. again make sure the pulleys are set according to the BDC marks.

install idler pulley and the new plate it comes with. only torque the alan bolt to start with. it goes to 20 ft/lbs

 

[franklin40]

slide new belt on making sure that the timing marks don’t change position. slide belt over lower pulley and the as it’s starting to slide onto the camshaft gear put it on the idler pulley at the same time and slid into position.

next is the hardest part. the tensioner spring. i used a similar idea as beno did but i used a wire shelf support which i ground down a little at one end. the hole hooks the wire and with three or four attempts of levering the rod over the post i was able to get the spring to snap into place. because if his suggestion in technique it took me 5 minutes once i made the “tool”

torque spring bolt to 20 ft/lbs

 

[franklin40]

reinstall the timing belt cover after the marks have been double checked. there is a sticker that you can apply to the to the top of the cover that says when you last changed it. it comes with the belt.

reinstall fan and pulley (mine was the only left over part i had when i was done. oops. ill just have to take the fan off and sneak it in there tonight), power steering reservoir and fan belt tensioner and the job’s done! i think it likely took me about 5 hours for my first attempt counting just the hours i worked on it. again not a hard job but fiddley because it’s a tight space. FSM is really helpful. i hope some of my pitfalls that aren’t in the FSM can be helpful though.

i also took some extra time to do the blue fan mod while it was out. i’m also reorganizing my engine compartment a little so i won’t have it running for a bit yet. hopefully i won’t have any major leaks or problems. ill have to finish an oil /filter change, fill with oil and coolant too

 

[franklin40]

quick follow up to this job. i have a few hundred km on it after the belt change and it’s all running well. i also orders a new cam shaft seal retainer as i has scored the other one taking the seal out. no oil leaks at this point but i don’t want to have to rely on rtv every time i do this job especially if i have a shop do it and they don’t recognize the gouge. ill have this one around for the next belt change!

 

[HillCountryTX]

This is great @franklin40, thank you for sharing! It is what makes this forum so helpful!

 

[Ghostrider I]

Dumb question, what is the interval for timing belt service on an 1 HD-T?

 

[OGBeno]

Dumb question, what is the interval for timing belt service on an 1 HD-T?

90K KM's

 

[IanB]

90K KM's

The sticker that came with my timing belt kit suggested 100K kms, I'm pretty sure the FSM says the same.

 

[franklin40]

i was always under the impression that 100k was the interval but if beno says 90 he knows more than i do! i’m sure mine was around 140k before i finally got it done. old belt still looked in great shape but i won’t chance it next time

 

[OGBeno]

90-110k KMs would be acceptable conservative lower and upper ranges.

 

[bigredmachine]

100k km would be approximately 60k miles and that was the t-belt interval for Toyota for a long time before they upped the service interval to 90k miles

 

[Greg_B]

Excellent write-up and will be great data for those in the future who do their own service.

I sacrificed a driver as well, to make an SST for putting the spring back on. Don't have a handy pic of it, but like all the ideas.

Curious about the other side of the camshaft oil seal retainer and if it has any holes for the pin(s), ala this thread: Pin for Timing Belt Idler If you can confirm I will leave it intact, but can edit it so incorrect info is not out there, once you check.

gb

 

[ki6bdb]

100k km would be approximately 60k miles and that was the t-belt interval for Toyota for a long time before they upped the service interval to 90k miles

How about time wise, how many years should you go before replacing it if you don’t reach the 100,000 kilometer mark?