1HDT low boost

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Joined
Oct 21, 2016
Threads
5
Messages
27
Location
Canada
Hello and good day,

I purchased one a grunter extreme a couple years ago. I've been loving it! Regretfully I had some engine problems so I had the 1hdt rebuilt. At the same time I also sent away the pump and injectors for good measure. Now that the engine has been reassembled and worn in, the pump was turned up from a very conservative setting during the wear in process of the engine. While the engine was wearing in I noted the turbo wasn't making the same boost levels it had been prior to the rebuild. I dismissed it as being low exhaust energy due to the conservative pump setting. But since the pump was turned up the boost pressure didn't increase at all. It only comes up to approximate 15psi. I understand the Westgate is set for 18psi. There is also a bleed type boost controller - pre rebuild I had the turbo set to 25psi. To the day I pulled the engine out I was getting 25psi. During the rebuild process the turbo and manifold were removed as a single assembly. For good measure I removed the elbow off the turbo to see what I could of the turbine. It looked fine. Granted there is a lot of it I could not see. The bearing felt good and the turbo spins freely. Put the elbow back on and set the manifold / turbo combination away in a safe spot during the rebuild.

I am at a complete loss why the boost pressures are so low. The turbo seems to behave as it always did. Slight lag off the line, then builds boost like a freight train up to 15psi then holds there. My EGT's pre rebuild at a high were 1250 but never sustained. post rebuild under a hard pull 1150 now that the pump has been turned up.

Things I've checked and done:
- check all air passages for blockages no faults.
- disconnected Westgate line to see what max is. Boost builds rapidly up to 22psi and holds there.
- tried other boost gauges, all show similar readings.
- tried turning up the fuel for more exhaust energy. no boost change but dangerous temperatures.

I'm beginning to think the turbo is the problem. Are there any other things I can do to diagnose this issue? Being in Canada most diesel shops are of zero help - they just don't want to touch it.

The engine is fitted with a Safari front mount intercooler. The pump was rebuilt to factory settings with the exception of a stiffer spring for the arnoid pin. (To accomidate the 25psi boost. Good and full deflection of the arnoid pin is noted by scratches from the follower pin.) The arnoid pin has been reground to have a steeper slope, and no fuel cut. The valves were gaped properly about a year ago. The head was left assembled during the rebuild. Only the shortblock was rebuilt. This is a 92' engine - small pocket in the pistons. The shop who rebuilt the pump knew that a specific injector copper washer was required for these pistons as well as subtle differences in the pump. Truck has a 3" exhaust all the way back. Otherwise the engine is stock.

Not sure if I've missed any pertinent details if so let me know.

I thank you in advance for any help and advice you could give.

Should this unfortunately end up being a cooked turbo should I just get another grunter extreme? or is there a more modern turbo I could put in. I understand an adapter block would be necessary.

Thanks for your time
 
After all that work, I would be looking for a boost leak.
 
After all that work, I would be looking for a boost leak.


Yeah I've been through the entire intake right back to the turbo. it's all buttoned up tight. I'm thinking there is damage to the turbine. fingers crossed that's not the case.
 
Did you check with fuel injection shop that built the pump to see at what pressure the aneroid cut the fuel off at? Just because you told someone at the counter doesn't mean the tech that built it got that information. Timing can also cost you some power but those pumps are keyed if I remember correctly.
 
Did you check with fuel injection shop that built the pump to see at what pressure the aneroid cut the fuel off at? Just because you told someone at the counter doesn't mean the tech that built it got that information. Timing can also cost you some power but those pumps are keyed if I remember correctly.

Yes I've talk to the guy who setup the pump. Even brought the truck to him for a close look / adjustment. And later when I pulled the aneroid out I could see the markings on it where it's been moving against the follower pin. It's not going into fuel cut.

Yes the pumps are keyed. The guy who timmed the pump I don't feel overly confident with. The guy who rebuilt the pump said it sounded like it could be advanced *slightly* I also tried that with no improvement. But I can say for certain my pump sits closers to the engine (advanced) then it did pre rebuild.
 
I'm little lost ..

disconnected wastegate = 22PSI = good ..

connected wastegate = 15 PSI = no more boots = bad ..

I'm following this right .?

so it's the wastegate ..
 
I'm little lost ..

disconnected wastegate = 22PSI = good ..

connected wastegate = 15 PSI = no more boots = bad ..



I'm following this right .?

so it's the wastegate ..


Yes your following correct. sorry I forgot to mention this turbo could easily attain 30+ psi pre engine rebuild.

The waste gate dash pot and spring seem tight. as in I don't believe the Westgate is being blow open. And when I externally actuate the Westgate with a compressor it opens at 18 as it was setup to do.
 
Then we're looking at the turbo. If the turbo max spooled at 22psi w/ no wastegate, then it's clearly your problem. Maybe some debris in the engine post rebuild got sucked through the turbine end? Might wanna take off the turbo and inspect.
 
Ok .. so next step

1. pretty sure no leaks ...? ( from turbo compressor side outlet to the intake )

2. IP timing remains the same ?

3. Air intake up to the compressor inducer check ?
 
Ok .. so next step

1. pretty sure no leaks ...? ( from turbo compressor side outlet to the intake )

2. IP timing remains the same ?

3. Air intake up to the compressor inducer check ?


Yes no leaks. only thing I can not verify is the IP timing is as per FSM . The diesel person who rebuilt the pump said it sounded like it could be just a hair more advanced. I've tried that as well with no improvement.
 
well in this case gotta be with @DirtDawg .. check the turbo itself ..

Comes to my mind that you might have your old stock CT26 rolling around or you can source a stock one .. swap it and verify.

It should perform as good as stock, full boost 9 - 10 PSI @2K rpm and with no wastegate should go up to 20PSI straight.
 
well in this case gotta be with @DirtDawg .. check the turbo itself ..

Comes to my mind that you might have your old stock CT26 rolling around or you can source a stock one .. swap it and verify.

It should perform as good as stock, full boost 9 - 10 PSI @2K rpm and with no wastegate should go up to 20PSI straight.

I do have my stock ct26 still. it's just for the work involved to pull off the grunter extreme for inspection; should it be burnt I will not want to go the Hassel of re-re the old turbo. I will either want to repair/replace the grunter or source a North American sourced turbo with similar specs to the grunter. I realize this would involve an adapter plate and exhaust work.
 
If you go with a NA company try to find a Garrett or Holset of similar design. I've used numerous turbos from both companies and have never had one fail under some pretty good towing abuse (HIGH EGTS). Just rebuild them every 30-50k.

If your current turbo only has damage to one of the wheels, then I'm sure you can just rebuild with a stock wheel or try to source stronger turbine/billet compression wheel.

But yes, it sounds like you have either fin damage on the compressor/turbine side or damage to the actual housing.
 
NA company with grunter replacement ...? naaaaaaa .. guess the closer you can get it's what @ForealBoreal was offering ...
 

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