1FZFE wont start now

[guzzla]

I've finally got my rebuilt engine in, wired up and finally cranked it over this arvo. It took a while to start and when it did it ran pretty rough. I removed the dizzy and adjusted it 1 tooth and it then started straight away and idled real nice. It was running smooth like this for about 5min with me varying the revs slightly when without warning it simply stalled. Now, it will only crank but not turn over.

I've double checked the connectors at the ignighter, coil, MAF and any electrical connection I can see but still nothing. Before even starting it, I drained the main tank and installed 20L of fresh fuel so it can't possibly be that.

I kind of suck when it comes to using multimetres so if you guys can't pinpoint something simple, I may have to ask my autolec to pay me a house visit.

EDIT: I'm not sure it it makes any difference, but during the rebuild I had the compression dropped to 8.3:1 as I plan on fitting a turbo in the next few months. Also, I did not get the chance to check the timing before it stalled - I was too busy enjoying the rewards of all my hard work HAHA!!!

Thanks in advance.

 

[guzzla]

I've just checked the following...
Banjo bolts on the fuel filter and fuel rail - OK
Fuel pump using the diagnostics panel and a paper clip - OK

Something strange that just happened is I taped the coil and the ignighter a few times each with a shifter out of shear frustration and then cranked the engine. It started straght away and idled perfectly for about 20-30sec before stumbling and then stalling.
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I've now removed the coil, coil leand and the ignighter to take to my auto lec for testing. Hopefully, it's one of these giving me grief.

I'd still appreciate any other ideas you may have in the meantime.

 

[guzzla]

Hi guys,
I've just checked the Fuel Pump Relay and have a query regarding the results.

Here is the test proceedure as detailed in the FSM...
1) Check that continuity exists between terminals : +B1 and FPR
2) Check that continuity exists between terminals: +B2 and FP
3) Check that continuity does not exist between terminals: +B2 and PR
4) Apply battery voltage to terminals: +B1 and FPR
5) Check that continuity exists between terminals: +B2 and PR, but not between terminals +B2 and FP

All tests check out fine except for step 1, where I get NO continuity between terminals: +B1 and FPR. However, when I connect voltage to them as per step 4, the relay can be heard and felt turning on.

Can someone please explain what is going on and if it means the FPR needs to be replaced or fixed?

 

[guzzla]

I just checked the EFI relay under the bonnet. Essentially it seems dead in the fact there is no continuity anywhere, with or without power. I'm not sure if you should be able to feel the relay activating when power is connected but I felt or heard nothing.

What I don't get is, if it's stuffed, how is the engine even running at all????

Again, thanks in advance.

 

[guzzla]

Well I just had everything checked over by my autolec with his state of the art equipment and he has assured me it's all working perfectly. Man, does that coil throw a big fat spark!!!

Anyway, I tested the ignition lead from the coil to the dizzy and there's no spark. Can someone plese tell me what the min and max resistance levels are for all the ignition leads as I can't find them in my FSM - I must be going blind.

 

[guzzla]

For the record, the ignition leads have a maximum recommended resistance of 25k ohms per lead.

Turns out mine are all within spec and the issue was heavily carbon coated points that, once removed with a blade and sand paper, the old girl started right up and ran like a dream.

Thank you to everyone for your valed input - I couldn't have done it without you

 

[natethegrate1990]

there wasn't any input from anyone...

 

[Fosters]

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