1FZ-F (carb) piston doubt (1 Viewer)

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Argentina
Hi guys, so I'm rebuilding a 1FZ carb engine from a 1996 FZJ75.
I am checking piston part numbers and the following come up. What's the difference? Std Size.
Screen Shot 2024-10-15 at 11.49.52.png
 
Slight difference in sizes between mark 1-3.
Same like the bearings, you need to add the number on the block vs crank to get your number.
Pistons, I think it's number on piston or number on piston plus number on block.
With pistons, give them the Vin and they should be able to pull it up.
Unless you are going oversized, then just get your .5 or 1.0.
If you get stuck, I'll go through my notes to see if I can help.
Cheers
 
Slight difference in sizes between mark 1-3.
Same like the bearings, you need to add the number on the block vs crank to get your number.
Pistons, I think it's number on piston or number on piston plus number on block.
With pistons, give them the Vin and they should be able to pull it up.
Unless you are going oversized, then just get your .5 or 1.0.
If you get stuck, I'll go through my notes to see if I can help.
Cheers
Thanks! Actually it will be difficult, because the engine has been swapped to a diesel troopy, so the VIN is from a HZJ75. I am trying the get the VIN from the donor. Will keep it posted.

Cheers
 
Thanks! Actually it will be difficult, because the engine has been swapped to a diesel troopy, so the VIN is from a HZJ75. I am trying the get the VIN from the donor. Will keep it posted.

Cheers
What do the bores look like?
If no ridge and still on tight end of stock and pistons still good, re-ring and hone.
If bores worn, go 0.5 over and order accordingly.
Good luck
 
Slight difference in sizes between mark 1-3.
Same like the bearings, you need to add the number on the block vs crank to get your number.
Pistons, I think it's number on piston or number on piston plus number on block.
With pistons, give them the Vin and they should be able to pull it up.
Unless you are going oversized, then just get your .5 or 1.0.
If you get stuck, I'll go through my notes to see if I can help.
Cheers
Engine number is 1FZ0196354
 
What do the bores look like?
If no ridge and still on tight end of stock and pistons still good, re-ring and hone.
If bores worn, go 0.5 over and order accordingly.
Good luck
Actually the guy on the machine shop, doesn't want to go oversize, and wants to rebore, like in a 3B. I told him Toyota doesn't sell liners for the 1FZ, and I told him that engine is not meant to have a liner replacement.
What's your thought on this?
 
Actually the guy on the machine shop, doesn't want to go oversize, and wants to rebore, like in a 3B. I told him Toyota doesn't sell liners for the 1FZ, and I told him that engine is not meant to have a liner replacement.
What's your thought on this?
Then he doesn't seem to understand the 1fz engine.
It has 0.5 and 1.0mm over bore options only, no sleeves for this engine.
Unless it's already bored to 1.0 over and needs refresh. This is the only time I would even consider engineered aftermarket sleeves as a last resort to keep it on the road.
Stick to Toyotas recommendations, they knew what they where doing, and spent Billions in R and D.
Now comes "Peter" in his little shop and thinks he knows better.
 
Then he doesn't seem to understand the 1fz engine.
It has 0.5 and 1.0mm over bore options only, no sleeves for this engine.
Unless it's already bored to 1.0 over and needs refresh. This is the only time I would even consider engineered aftermarket sleeves as a last resort to keep it on the road.
Stick to Toyotas recommendations, they knew what they where doing, and spent Billions in R and D.
Now comes "Peter" in his little shop and thinks he knows better.
Totally agree with you. Will have a "discussion" with "Peter".
Cheers
 
GREAT! If I go +0,5 I don't have to bother on mark 1 or 2
Yes, engine is already dismantled at the machine shop. I am currently sourcing parts.
Cheers!
Yes correct, if you go oversized you don't need to worry about mark 1.
Check small ends now, they were a bitch to find for me, lucky mine were still good.
Replace valve guides, I didn't and paid for it.
Heat up pistons to 82 degrees to get gudgeon pin in and out, otherwise you damage pistons, pins, bushes and other things.
Check the bushing for the oil pump gear in the block, protect it as there is no replacement part.
Main bearing bolts are also a bitch to find, I used my old ones and all is OK, but would have preferred new.
These were the biggest issues off the top of my head.
 

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