1996 LC Front axle service (1 Viewer)

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mjl132

mjl132

Joined
Jun 14, 2009
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I bought a 1996 LC about a month ago and the front axle is clicking in low only when I turn. I know what this means. So I called Cdan to price the parts, have the FSM and now need some advice/help. Is anybody around Birmingham or Montgomery that could answer a few questions I have and maybe reassure me whether I can or cannot do this myself. Also, does anybody have the name of a good independent mechanic around Birmingham that might do it. Here's a chance for some mudders to make some extra coin.

Matthew
 
Who's this guy you speak of drgr?

Do you have a 12mm, 17mm, 54mm, tiny screwdriver, hammer, bearing grease, breaker bar? oh and a few hours...

Then you can switch your birfs...

Where are you?
 
I'm sure alot of people on here would be more than willing to lend a hand and guide you through it. I've never done front knuckle/axle work, but have a slowly leaking one that I'm going to do this summer and I'm confident I can do it myself...even if it takes a few 10 hour days.

Where are you located? I'd be willing to come help in any way I can, even if it's just turning a wrench.
 
I'm in downtown Birmingham actually in Southside. And Eric, I think I drove to Auburn to drive your LC a few months ago. I had the S2000. I have a place in Prattville with a workshop but I brought all of my tools to downtown with me and park in the 5th Ave parking deck. The guards are pretty cool so I feel pretty confident I could get the work done in the deck.
 
mjl132 said:
I'm in downtown Birmingham actually in Southside. And Eric, I think I drove to Auburn to drive your LC a few months ago. I had the S2000. I have a place in Prattville with a workshop but I brought all of my tools to downtown with me and park in the 5th Ave parking deck. The guards are pretty cool so I feel pretty confident I could get the work done in the deck.
Click to expand...

ahhhh, I was like "what?"... but yeah, you were looking at it when Cory was selling it... because you didn't take it, I did. It's the same but different now: new head gasket, ARB front locker, my old Cattywampus front bumper, new birfield, next week getting KM2's...
It's still for sale (everything is) just costs more now...
 
Will the front bumper take a winch? If so I want it. On a side note and more importantly, if I can come back to Prattville one weekend to work on it could you spare a little time to maybe help me wrench on it or at the very least maybe can I give you a call to maybe reassure me of what's happening in the that cluster of my front axle.
 
mjl132 said:
Will the front bumper take a winch? If so I want it.
Click to expand...

Just the bumper?
Do you weld? I can help you build one... but I gotta keep a bumper

If you do the birf switch in Prattville then I might could help..... I'd first suggest just pulling the hubs and shafts before the knuckles, that should be easy...
 
Land Speeder said:
Just the bumper?
Do you weld? I can help you build one... but I gotta keep a bumper

If you do the birf switch in Prattville then I might could help..... I'd first suggest just pulling the hubs and shafts before the knuckles, that should be easy...
Click to expand...

I do not weld. Oh well, I will learn one day.

I called Cdan about the parts I want to replace the seals, etc. In my FSM I have been reading SA9-24 so as to learn the process of where everything is and how is fits. That is basically what I am wanting to accomplish. Could I get away with less to quit the leaking out of the knuckles and stop the clicking or should I go all the way so to speak?
 
How badly is the leaking on the inner side of the knuckle? (round area)
Onliest reason i ask is because if you take your knuckles OFF and do the whole axle rebuild then you are looking at two solid days of work... that ain't a joke...
Doing that you need the full rebuild kit and might as well get new bearings since you're knee deep in it... The next time you won't need new bnearings because you will know when they were installed... you're most likely using the original bearings that are over a decade old...

OK. Now. if it isn't weeping too much juice out of the inside the you want to just do a half job where you pull the hubs and shafts/birfields... that'll take a newbie about 5 hours. Give yourself a full satruday or sunday. you'll need any gasket/star nut/grease associated with the hub....
i can't tell you how often I've gone this deep in before... i can tell you that i replaced my rotors Friday night, so that was the last time... the time before that was last Saturday putting in a Birfield and the time before that was two Saturdays ago when we pulled the birfield out on the side of the trail because it broke.

If you plan to wheel these beasts, you need to a) know how to pull thesse birfs quick and b) have all the necessary tools that normal tool boxes don't have... 54mm hub socket (a thin one from spector or slee, NOT a thick snap-on). The reason you need to know how to pull a birf is because the second it breaks, it's got to come out... OR you must drop the front drive shaft AND remove the drive flange. This is because they are full-time 4WD and that broken birf turning inside the hub can do major damage to other expensive stuff like the shaft or hub or even axle housing... it needs to come out.
 
Land Speeder said:
How badly is the leaking on the inner side of the knuckle? (round area)
Onliest reason i ask is because if you take your knuckles OFF and do the whole axle rebuild then you are looking at two solid days of work... that ain't a joke...
Doing that you need the full rebuild kit and might as well get new bearings since you're knee deep in it... The next time you won't need new bnearings because you will know when they were installed... you're most likely using the original bearings that are over a decade old...

OK. Now. if it isn't weeping too much juice out of the inside the you want to just do a half job where you pull the hubs and shafts/birfields... that'll take a newbie about 5 hours. Give yourself a full satruday or sunday. you'll need any gasket/star nut/grease associated with the hub....
i can't tell you how often I've gone this deep in before... i can tell you that i replaced my rotors Friday night, so that was the last time... the time before that was last Saturday putting in a Birfield and the time before that was two Saturdays ago when we pulled the birfield out on the side of the trail because it broke.

If you plan to wheel these beasts, you need to a) know how to pull thesse birfs quick and b) have all the necessary tools that normal tool boxes don't have... 54mm hub socket (a thin one from spector or slee, NOT a thick snap-on). The reason you need to know how to pull a birf is because the second it breaks, it's got to come out... OR you must drop the front drive shaft AND remove the drive flange. This is because they are full-time 4WD and that broken birf turning inside the hub can do major damage to other expensive stuff like the shaft or hub or even axle housing... it needs to come out.
Click to expand...

It isn't leaking out on the ground yet like the axle soup I have seen in some rigs. It is caking on the outside of the knuckles and only clicking in low when I turn hard right.

I figure whether I go for the whole or the half job, I will learn a ton about the rig. I could probaly get away with a half job, but I figured I would get a rebuild kit from cruiser outfitters or from Dan. Cruiser outfitters has the kits on sale for $115 and wheel bearings are $40. Should I do knuckle bearings too if I go this route? I have the FSM and I'm sure if one person would even spend a few hours guiding me I could get the whole thing done with a neighbor. I have a decent amount of wrenching experience.
 
sounds good...
Remember... if you pull it all out plan on 2 weekend days... do not think you can get it done quicker...
 
mjl132 said:
Should I do knuckle bearings too if I go this route? I have the FSM and I'm sure if one person would even spend a few hours guiding me I could get the whole thing done with a neighbor. I have a decent amount of wrenching experience.
Click to expand...

Definitely do the knuckle bearings as they most likely need replacing along with the seals. This is not a job you want to redo anytime soon so it'd be best to just do it all and know that the job is complete.
 
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