Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks, I didn’t know the needle could drop out of sight. I’ll check continuity when I dig back into it and will hold off on looking for parts.
1995 HZJ75 Farm Ute
- Thread starter Matt Sierra
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
When I purchased my 1993 PZJ75 the fuel gauge wasn't working (stuck at 2/3) so I purchased a new sending unit, but before dropping the tank I opened the electrical service manual and traced the wiring from the gauge to the fuel tank.
I found there is a wiring harness connector tucked up under the truck bed inside of a cross support.
Upon disconnecting the harness connector; the gauge dropped to E.
I found that there was voltage at the pins although very intermittent.
Using scotch brite I cleaned the pins and clips and applied a little dielectric grease; the fuel gauge works although slow in responding.
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks for the tip. I’ll check to see if I have that connector under the bed. It would be great if this is a no parts fix!
Others might be able to speak to the slow response of the fuel gauge, but I have had a similarly slow fuel gauge on my 1990 hilux pickup for the 20 years I’ve owned it and have always assumed that was normal for Toyotas of this vintage.
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #25
Assuming RHD is a mirror of LHD, I think I should be looking for BS1 at the crossmember near the rear axle, everything else looks to be inside the cab.
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #27
While working out the electrical issues with the fuel and oil gauge I've started considering the overall electrical plan for this rig.
I don't plan on adding too much aftermarket lighting, I'll replace the cheap LEDs on the front bumper with something a little better and will likely add some extra reverse lighting in the rear. (My middle aged eyes appreciate the extra light when backing up.) I need to decide if I should add an auxiliary fuse/ relay box and a in-cabin switch bank or just run each electrical accessory as a one off. This led me to start considering whether I'm going to add an e-locker.
Any advice on adding a locker to the 70 series? I think I'd do an e-locker since I don't have a need for onboard air in a non-wheeling rig. I don't do any hardcore wheeling and don't have a locker on my 1990 RN101 Toyota pickup but do have a rear locker on my 2020 Tacoma. The '90 is light enough that I've been able to get it unstuck from mud and snow without too much issue but I've definitely found the rear locker handy in deeper snow with my Tacoma. Since my 70 is heavier, like the Tacoma, I'm thinking it might be helpful here as well.
I'm certainly leaning towards adding an auxiliary electrical box, since projects generally only get more complex with time, but don't want to over complicate this out of the gate.
I don't plan on adding too much aftermarket lighting, I'll replace the cheap LEDs on the front bumper with something a little better and will likely add some extra reverse lighting in the rear. (My middle aged eyes appreciate the extra light when backing up.) I need to decide if I should add an auxiliary fuse/ relay box and a in-cabin switch bank or just run each electrical accessory as a one off. This led me to start considering whether I'm going to add an e-locker.
Any advice on adding a locker to the 70 series? I think I'd do an e-locker since I don't have a need for onboard air in a non-wheeling rig. I don't do any hardcore wheeling and don't have a locker on my 1990 RN101 Toyota pickup but do have a rear locker on my 2020 Tacoma. The '90 is light enough that I've been able to get it unstuck from mud and snow without too much issue but I've definitely found the rear locker handy in deeper snow with my Tacoma. Since my 70 is heavier, like the Tacoma, I'm thinking it might be helpful here as well.
I'm certainly leaning towards adding an auxiliary electrical box, since projects generally only get more complex with time, but don't want to over complicate this out of the gate.
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #28
It doesn’t look like I’m prewired for the factory e-locker and I imagine sourcing OEM parts would be a challenge, so the Harrop e-locker seems to be my option if I decide to add lockers.
www.harrop.com.au
www.harrop.com.au
ELocker | Toyota | 8" | Live Axle
In collaboration with Eaton Corporation we have developed the Harrop Eaton ELocker Differential for a range of popular 4WD vehicles.
www.harrop.com.au
ELocker | Toyota | LandCruiser 70, 100 & 200 | Rear
In collaboration with Eaton Corporation we have developed the Harrop Eaton ELocker Differential for a range of popular 4WD vehicles.
www.harrop.com.au
It doesn’t look like I’m prewired for the factory e-locker and I imagine sourcing OEM parts would be a challenge, so the Harrop e-locker seems to be my option if I decide to add lockers.
ELocker | Toyota | 8" | Live Axle
In collaboration with Eaton Corporation we have developed the Harrop Eaton ELocker Differential for a range of popular 4WD vehicles.ELocker | Toyota | LandCruiser 70, 100 & 200 | Rear
In collaboration with Eaton Corporation we have developed the Harrop Eaton ELocker Differential for a range of popular 4WD vehicles.
Yup.
YES, Harrop e locker. I bought a factory switch and ran wires from my 12V fuse box. Pros installed the rear locker in a few hours.
My ‘88 BJ74 had an empty row in its main fuse box. I added power to that row to run new accessories.
extra circuits
My ‘88 BJ74 had an empty row in its main fuse box. I added power to that row to run new accessories.
extra circuits
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks, that’s a great setup you put together. That may be a better approach than what I’d planned.
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #32
I had a busy couple of weeks and haven't done much on the rig. The registration and title finally went through so she's officially road legal!
I've tried to track down a little more history and ran an Australian PPSR report on the VIN. That report showed it was once registered in Western Australia. I already knew it made its way to the US by way of a Dubai Toyota reseller (based on a google search of the VIN), and then was exported to Oregon. I suspected the odometer was inaccurate when I bought it, but I'd like to confirm this. This is entirely for my own curiosity, as all the other used vehicles I've purchased have been previously owned by friends or family and came with comprehensive records.
Has anyone had any luck getting maintenance records from Toyota Australia on a 30 year old 70 series? I'm not above cold calling service departments in Perth, but I imagine that would be low yield. I've also reached out to the Dubai auto trader, but I don't expect to hear back from them.
I should have some more time to dig into the oil leak and look into replacing belts and hoses at the end of the month.
I've tried to track down a little more history and ran an Australian PPSR report on the VIN. That report showed it was once registered in Western Australia. I already knew it made its way to the US by way of a Dubai Toyota reseller (based on a google search of the VIN), and then was exported to Oregon. I suspected the odometer was inaccurate when I bought it, but I'd like to confirm this. This is entirely for my own curiosity, as all the other used vehicles I've purchased have been previously owned by friends or family and came with comprehensive records.
Has anyone had any luck getting maintenance records from Toyota Australia on a 30 year old 70 series? I'm not above cold calling service departments in Perth, but I imagine that would be low yield. I've also reached out to the Dubai auto trader, but I don't expect to hear back from them.
I should have some more time to dig into the oil leak and look into replacing belts and hoses at the end of the month.
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #33
I had a chance to dig into the electrical and it’s a bit more of a mess than I initially thought. Some of the factory looms were opened up, tapped/ spliced and resealed. I’m going to pull the bottom of the dash off next and see how bad it looks.
So far not gaining much ground, neither fuel gauge works, oil gauge still doesn’t work, and now headlights don’t work. The auxiliary fuel tank is connected to an aftermarket secondary fuel pump that may or may not work. It certainly makes noise, at least.
Mechanically it runs well, a little noise from the power steering pump when I start it. I can’t get the transfer case to shift into neutral or 4 lo. It feels mechanically obstructed. Maybe things are misaligned from the cab swap and I need to add some clearance. I’ll investigate that further while doing the rear main seal. When I’m 4 high I’m getting a clicking from the right front end when turning, something else to look into…
It’s a project! (As expected)
So far not gaining much ground, neither fuel gauge works, oil gauge still doesn’t work, and now headlights don’t work. The auxiliary fuel tank is connected to an aftermarket secondary fuel pump that may or may not work. It certainly makes noise, at least.
Mechanically it runs well, a little noise from the power steering pump when I start it. I can’t get the transfer case to shift into neutral or 4 lo. It feels mechanically obstructed. Maybe things are misaligned from the cab swap and I need to add some clearance. I’ll investigate that further while doing the rear main seal. When I’m 4 high I’m getting a clicking from the right front end when turning, something else to look into…
It’s a project! (As expected)
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #34
I took my first extended highway drive today to head into town and fill her up. It took 13 gallons (just shy of $100) of diesel to get both tanks full which means the previous owner gave me about 30 gallons of diesel when I bought it. I guess that makes me $180 richer than I realized!
It drives fine at higher speeds on pavement, tracks well, stops reasonably for what it is. The comfortable 5th gear cruising speed is about 80-90 kph. I don’t think I’ll push any harder than that until I’ve finished my mechanical overhaul.
The squealing from the front end that I thought was from the power steering pump has gotten worse. It cuts out when I put the clutch in, so I suspect the rear main seal leak may have saturated the pressure plate. Looks like I’ll likely be doing a clutch with the rear main seal…
It drives fine at higher speeds on pavement, tracks well, stops reasonably for what it is. The comfortable 5th gear cruising speed is about 80-90 kph. I don’t think I’ll push any harder than that until I’ve finished my mechanical overhaul.
The squealing from the front end that I thought was from the power steering pump has gotten worse. It cuts out when I put the clutch in, so I suspect the rear main seal leak may have saturated the pressure plate. Looks like I’ll likely be doing a clutch with the rear main seal…
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #35
Working on the things that I'm likely to get pulled over for, the spotty headlights and the license plate light.
An Aussie spec HZJ75 should have had a factory license plate bracket and lights below the bumper on the driver's (right hand) side, I believe? I think I'm missing 75102-60090 and the associated license plate lights which should be 81270-60260.
An Aussie spec HZJ75 should have had a factory license plate bracket and lights below the bumper on the driver's (right hand) side, I believe? I think I'm missing 75102-60090 and the associated license plate lights which should be 81270-60260.
(edit) what's wrong with your headlights and foglights? (I love your truck - 95 is obviously the very best year.)
Last edited:
Another option is to use this unit. I know it's not OEM but was a nice, simple install on my Ute and works really well.
LED License Plate Light
Due to popular demand we have now released an in house made LED license plate light. Includes waterproof connector and long lead to reach most trailer plugs or factory license plate lights for splicing.
dissentoffroad.com
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #38
Nothing aside from that the headlights stopped working at some point since I bought it. Also, a prior owner tapped the headlight circuit for the cheap aftermarket LED trail lights, so they come on with the headlights. Annoyingly, the LEDs still work.
My guess is that a poorly done tap/ splice has come loose somewhere because both headlights are on separate 10 amp fuses, the fuses are good, and I don’t get battery (or any) voltage on my multimeter when I test any of the headlight contacts against frame ground.
No evidence of any mouse activity (a big problem for vehicles on our farm), but I’m bringing her into town for the mechanical work anyways, so we’ll get rodents out of the picture for now.
Last edited:
Thats BAD ASS!
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #40
Anyone have an idea of what this (inoperative) light is for? I don't see it on the parts diagrams that pull with my VIN. Is it a euro rear fog light? The lens/ drywall screw combo seems homemade.
