1995 HZJ75 Farm Ute

[DrRock]

That’s the Euro required fog light if i’m not mistaken. The drywall screw topic is the aftermarket upgrade

 

[HZJ75 FARMER]

Nothing aside from that the headlights stopped working at some point since I bought it. Also, a prior owner tapped the headlight circuit for the cheap aftermarket LED trail lights, so they come on with the headlights. Annoyingly, the LEDs still work.

My guess is that a poorly done tap/ splice has come loose somewhere because both headlights are on separate 10 amp fuses, the fuses are good, and I don’t get battery (or any) voltage on my multimeter when I test any of the headlight contacts against frame ground.

No evidence of any mouse activity (a big problem for vehicles on our farm), but I’m bringing her into town for the mechanical work anyways, so we’ll get rodents out of the picture for now.

The headlights both have separate fuses, correct.
However, they both come from one leg of the fusible link. So if there's problems there you will lose power to both lights.
Not saying that's your problem if the circuit has been modified, but it's something to keep in mind.
I have no idea why they went to the trouble of having separate fuses, which does seem like a great idea, but when it comes from a single fusible link wire it kind of defeats the purpose.

 

[Matt Sierra]

The headlights both have separate fuses, correct.
However, they both come from one leg of the fusible link. So if there's problems there you will lose power to both lights.
Not saying that's your problem if the circuit has been modified, but it's something to keep in mind.
I have no idea why they went to the trouble of having separate fuses, which does seem like a great idea, but when it comes from a single fusible link wire it kind of defeats the purpose.

I agree it doesn’t make too much sense.

In my case they tapped the wiring for the (still working) aftermarket LEDs into the headlight harnesses on both sides only 3 inches before it plugs into the back of the headlights, so think the problem is there.

The only thing I can’t explain is why both headlights stopped working in tandem.

 

[JuanJ]

Anyone have an idea of what this (inoperative) light is for? I don't see it on the parts diagrams that pull with my VIN. Is it a euro rear fog light? The lens/ drywall screw combo seems homemade.View attachment 4132362

Hello,

It is a homebrew rear fog light. It should be all red.

The rear fog light is a Europe-spec option. It may appear in the diagrams if you supply a Europe-specific VIN or model code.






Juan

 

[Matt Sierra]

Hello,

It is a homebrew rear fog light. It should be all red.

The rear fog light is a Europe-spec option. It may appear in the diagrams if you supply a Europe-specific VIN or model code.






Juan

Thanks, looks like 81210-60100 is the OEM replacement. The more I drive it and fix little things the more little things I’m noticing. It’s all minor trim and electrical stuff, the sort of stuff I was expecting to find when I bought it.

I’m trying to stay focused on big picture work at the beginning of this build, but have to fight off my obsessive compulsive traits and distractibility…

 

[Matt Sierra]

I’m waiting on parts for the mechanical work and electrical upgrades, so I have dug a little deeper into the cab/ body weirdness. The passenger door is keyed differently from the driver’s door and the ignition and I don’t have a key for it, so that door will need to come apart at some point.

Most of the clips for the window weatherstripping are broken, so a prior owner glued it on. That did not work well, new clips (68211-90K00) are on the way. The door boards also look to be partially glued together. We’ll see if I can salvage them. If not, it looks like new one are available overseas (67620-60221-E0 and 67610-60221-E0). Fortunately most of these clips seem to be available domestically.

Drivers door is missing a vapor barrier, so that’s (67831-60070) coming also.

The steering wheel is crumbling and tacky, old soft plastics and Australian heat don’t get along well. It looks like they’re still available new (45100-60190-E0), but not sure it’s worth the $200+ they want for it. Paracord wheel wrap may be happening shortly.

 

[Matt Sierra]

The driver's side door lock cylinder still works but is pretty beat up. It looks like someone took a screw driver to it at some point.

The replacement part number I found is 69051-60090 but it's discontinued. Has anyone had any luck sourcing replacement door lock cylinders?

 

[DrRock]

Hi Matt, I know you can get a complete lock cylinder kit from Toyota. @WarDamnEagle has this part number in his build thread. I can also check to see if I still have mine as I replaced all of mine so I only had to deal with one key. Any locksmith should be able to re-key these from my understanding.

Cheers, James