Matt Sierra
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Hi all, recently purchased a 1995 HZJ75 and am in the process of getting the rig titled, registered, and ready to go home. Looking forward to tapping into this great resource!
Build 1995 HZJ75 Farm Ute
- Thread starter Matt Sierra
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Matt Sierra
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- #2
The fuel gauge for the number 1 fuel tank is known to be inop as is the oil pressure gauge. I'm planning to start out testing and cleaning the senders. Not sure if I should be doing anything else when I drop the fuel tank.
Congratulations and welcome, I have a 1992 and they are great trucks. Most parts are readily available from your local Toyota dealership.. For the oil sender, check your grounds and the connection at the sender on the engine as a first step.
Cheers, James
Cheers, James
Matt Sierra
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- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks, I’ll start there. It’s not too crusty overall, but corrosion often seems to pop up around grounds.
Hard to be 100% certain with this photo, but the cab vent looks to be 75 Series.
Hello,
Both 75 and 79 Series have the cab vent. The latter has a slightly longer one.
The vent, the windshield, the roof and the Land Cruiser badge give it away as a 79 Series cab, namely a post-2006 one. The front clip is from a 75 Series.
Personally, I think it is worth because of the extra leg space.
Juan
Yep, I think the 79 Series cab vent is 2”-3” longer than the 75 Series version. The smart folks can chime in with the exact dimensions.
Hello,Yep, I think the 79 Series cab vent is 2”-3” longer than the 75 Series version. The smart folks can chime in with the exact dimensions.
So far, I have seen 79 Series beds fitted into 75 Series.
This is the first 79 Series cab fitted on a 75 Series that I have seen. Interesting.
Perhaps it is a modification worth considering. Yes, you lose the folding windshield and removable top, but you can always use some extra space.
Juan
Matt Sierra
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- Thread starter
- #10
Interesting, thanks for the info. I don't have a lot of details about what's happened on it's journey from Australia to Oregon but it did make a stop in Dubai for a respray. Maybe that's when they swapped the cab?
Assuming there has indeed been a cab swap, you’ll enjoy that extra 3” of legroom. It doesn’t sound like much, but it makes a significant difference in overall comfort.
Hello,
It is possible.
It looks like the cab still has the original dash and interior. Perhaps the swap was done in Australia.
Just in case, have a look at the wiring harness. A proper swap leaves it unmolested. A hack job, not so much. It is a good excuse to check your grounds and electrical system.
As mentioned above, you will enjoy the extra space. And please post more pictures of the interior. People love pictures around here.
Juan
Maybe this is a silly question, but would this jeopardize his ability to register it in the U.S.? It depends on what the VIN says I guess, but would the VIN say it's a 2006 or newer Land Cruiser?
Hopefully not. This is a beautiful truck man! I have a 1997 HZJ77 here in Colorado and I love it.
Hello,
I may be stating the obvious here.
70 Series trucks have the VIN number stamped on the front part of the right frame rail and on a plate that is riveted to the firewall inside the engine bay.
If the conversion was done properly, the plate went from the old cab to the new cab. Provided, of course, they kept it.
Juan
Matt Sierra
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- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks all for the insights, still working on the DMV and insurance side and haven’t dug too deeply just yet into the quality of the cab swap.
Juan is correct, the VIN plates all match and have the 1995 VIN. It was titled by the prior owner and the DMV aren’t asking for a VIN check, so hopefully no issues there.
Thanks all for your insights.
Juan is correct, the VIN plates all match and have the 1995 VIN. It was titled by the prior owner and the DMV aren’t asking for a VIN check, so hopefully no issues there.
Thanks all for your insights.
Nice rig! Welcome to the forum.
NorCal/Oregon you say. Consider bringing it to the PNW 7X meet-up >>
Events/Trails - PNW Meetup? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pnw-meetup.1345377/post-16174167
NorCal/Oregon you say. Consider bringing it to the PNW 7X meet-up >>
Events/Trails - PNW Meetup? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pnw-meetup.1345377/post-16174167
You're stating the obvious, but that's fine! I was worried maybe the firewall was included in the conversion. I know whenever I needed to show the VIN, the only plate they cared about was the one on the firewall.
Here's to smooth sailing Matt!
Matt Sierra
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #18
A little bit of delay in getting the rig home because of title transfer issues, but I've finally got her home. 1HZ is running well, but the oil leak is definitely going to need to be handled sooner rather than later.
I plan to start digging into the fuel and oil gauge issue once I've changed fluids and confirmed that everything is in good running order. Still haven't quite figured out how they did the cab swap, but nothing stands out as hack work, so I think they kept the 1995 factory harness intact.
I'll keep you all posted!
I plan to start digging into the fuel and oil gauge issue once I've changed fluids and confirmed that everything is in good running order. Still haven't quite figured out how they did the cab swap, but nothing stands out as hack work, so I think they kept the 1995 factory harness intact.
I'll keep you all posted!
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Matt Sierra
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- Thread starter
- #19
Looking into the low hanging fruit of the oil pressure gauge and primary fuel gauge. The oil pressure gauge seems to be missing the needle and I’ll need to get a replacement. I’m not seeing any voltage when back probing the fuel gauge and am thinking the fuel sender may be the issue. I’m going to look for a wiring diagram to see if there are any other likely failure points but I’ll probably need to drop the larger fuel tank.
Any recommendations for other maintenance items I should take care of while I have the fuel tank down? I think this rig has been mostly sitting for 2-3 years at least.
Any recommendations for other maintenance items I should take care of while I have the fuel tank down? I think this rig has been mostly sitting for 2-3 years at least.
....hmmmm, I had a similar oil gauge problem and thought I needed to source a new one.
I found the sender wire had come loose from the sender, reattached and the needle re-appeared from its hiding place down below the bottom edge. Check your sender cable and continuity to meter, and if you pull out the cluster turn it upside down to check and see presence/absence of the needle.
I found the sender wire had come loose from the sender, reattached and the needle re-appeared from its hiding place down below the bottom edge. Check your sender cable and continuity to meter, and if you pull out the cluster turn it upside down to check and see presence/absence of the needle.