I'm trying to get this going. There were some parts missing when bought. I don't know the history. Right now there is no spark from the coil. The coil and ignitor are new. It cranked but won't fire. Can some one with more experience tell me what is needed to get spark from the coil? Thanks.
1990 Landcruiser won't start
- Thread starter Lor
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I don't know about the '90, but the 91/92s have EFI relay issues (including a undersized wire leading to it.) I had a problem with no spark once & it ended up being the EFI relay. I was lost so I brought it to a dealership & over $300 later (including a ~$10 relay) they returned it to me good as new. Do a search for 91 EFI relay.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/15429-efi-relay.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/15429-efi-relay.html
- Thread starter
- #4
Thank you. I'll try to replace the EFI Relay.
I had the same issues with the EFI main, I haven't changed out the small wire yet but I did find a 4 pin aftermarket light relay at Autozone for $6 that fits right in. the original relay is 22 amp and this other one I found is 30 amp.so far I haven't had any starting problems since I used the other relay, I know most people change out the power wire to the EFI main with heavy gauge but I want to see if this relay is a permanant fix.
I will find a part # if you want it .
I will find a part # if you want it .
You mean this one? I saw that in my search. Not sure I would consider it a fix but it's good to know where to get one in a hurry (closest Yota daler to me is 45 miles one way).
Last edited:
fuseable links kicked my butt once
- Thread starter
- #9
Your link didn't work.
roamingaz,
Part # will be good, if you can provide.
e9999,
FJ80
decavo,
What's a fusable link?
Thanks all. Keep it coming.
why is the EFI wire an issue now that the truck is old, but in '91 when it was new people didn't fork out nearly $30,000 for a new Landcruiser just to take it home and start rewiring?
I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am wrong, but here is my way of thinking. The EFI main relay overheats because of too much draw either at the fuel pump or ??? Maybe something isn't grounded right? Then with the OEM EFI main relay being the tin can model makes it hotter when it overheats, causing it not to work. I know that certain model Toyotas came with OEM plastic relays and I believe they are of higher amperage, so that is how I came to finding the after market relay. When I was at Auto Zone the only relay they offered was the tin can model for $13.00, at the same time I was picking up relays to wire my off road lights I noticed a plastic relay that was four pin with the same wiring diagram as a OEM, it is 30 amp vs 22 amp. So for the $6.00 I took a chance and it slides right in, truck started right up and I have been driving it since with no problems. I don't know yet if I would consider this a permanent fix or a quick fix. Sooner or later I will rewire the relay but for now I am curious to see how long this works.
I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am wrong, but here is my way of thinking. The EFI main relay overheats because of too much draw either at the fuel pump or ??? Maybe something isn't grounded right? Then with the OEM EFI main relay being the tin can model makes it hotter when it overheats, causing it not to work. I know that certain model Toyotas came with OEM plastic relays and I believe they are of higher amperage, so that is how I came to finding the after market relay. When I was at Auto Zone the only relay they offered was the tin can model for $13.00, at the same time I was picking up relays to wire my off road lights I noticed a plastic relay that was four pin with the same wiring diagram as a OEM, it is 30 amp vs 22 amp. So for the $6.00 I took a chance and it slides right in, truck started right up and I have been driving it since with no problems. I don't know yet if I would consider this a permanent fix or a quick fix. Sooner or later I will rewire the relay but for now I am curious to see how long this works.
fuseble links are the colored wires coming off of the positive terminals of the battery they hit a wiring block right by the battery... use a omh meter with battery disconnected or a light tester to see if you have current
why is the EFI wire an issue now that the truck is old, but in '91 when it was new people didn't fork out nearly $30,000 for a new Landcruiser just to take it home and start rewiring?
I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am wrong, but here is my way of thinking. The EFI main relay overheats because of too much draw either at the fuel pump or ??? Maybe something isn't grounded right? Then with the OEM EFI main relay being the tin can model makes it hotter when it overheats, causing it not to work. I know that certain model Toyotas came with OEM plastic relays and I believe they are of higher amperage,..... .
You are right about the heat. A lot of things can possibly cause it--worn relay contacts, bad terminals to the relay, undersized wireing etc. The more resistance the current has to flow through, the more the heat builds up. And the more the heat builds up, the resistance increases (one of those vicious circles.) maybe your fix will rid the system of one of those high resistance areas and stop this from happening, but it might take 100,000 miles to verify it worked
. I think changing the wireing does just that, rids the system of unwanted resistance.
Because corrosion happens over time. If you read the blurb on my website, I took an amperage reading across the load side of the EFI relay. It was a touch over 6 amps with good connections. While that is a good amount of draw, it's not over loaded IMO. The stock wiring was crusty and brittle due to the combined heat of the exhaust manifold and the load of the circuit. Now add some road salt, some water, and cook it for 15 years, basting occasionally.
1990 Land Cruiser won't start (EFI?)
After I purchased my '91 Land Cruiser and read about the dreaded EFI prob (but only AFTER a long road trip to AZ), I inspected and found my '91 had already had the larger-gauge wire fix. But the EFI relay was still overheating and failed twice on the AZ trip (good thing the PO had extra relays in the glove box).
The underhood temp does get up there (have since determined the underhood fan does not come on as needed and plan on replacing heat switch above the exhaust manifold. I did adjust for tighter clearance) and I didn't think the connections at the relay were that good. I had read about different ideas and fixes in the forum. I decided I would relocate the relay and just recently routed it to the inside of the cab. I believe someone else posted about this before.
It was still getting too warm for my liking. It being central Cali and it gets rather hot here, I thought it was a waste of chilly R134A ac if it wasn't being used to help cool the relay.
SO, I cut a small hole in the back of the air duct just under the dash on the driver's side. I then inserted the EFI relay into the hole. Very nice and snug fit.
I did a good approx. 50 mile run in almost 100 degree heat with the ac on and...
NO MORE hot relay. The thing barely registers any warmth at all.
That's my fix for the warmer months. When winter comes and I need the heater, I will simply pull out the relay, attach a heat sink to it and plug the hole in the duct.
First photo shows routing of relay wires to the rubber plug (just to the right and under alarm horn) with relay box cover removed. No more EFI relay here.
Second photo was taken from under the duct looking up and shows the relay in the "COLD CHILL CHAMBER".
I hope this stuff helps someone out as it is not a comfortable feeling to know your '91-'92 80 series can die at any time.
After I purchased my '91 Land Cruiser and read about the dreaded EFI prob (but only AFTER a long road trip to AZ), I inspected and found my '91 had already had the larger-gauge wire fix. But the EFI relay was still overheating and failed twice on the AZ trip (good thing the PO had extra relays in the glove box).
The underhood temp does get up there (have since determined the underhood fan does not come on as needed and plan on replacing heat switch above the exhaust manifold. I did adjust for tighter clearance) and I didn't think the connections at the relay were that good. I had read about different ideas and fixes in the forum. I decided I would relocate the relay and just recently routed it to the inside of the cab. I believe someone else posted about this before.
It was still getting too warm for my liking. It being central Cali and it gets rather hot here, I thought it was a waste of chilly R134A ac if it wasn't being used to help cool the relay.
SO, I cut a small hole in the back of the air duct just under the dash on the driver's side. I then inserted the EFI relay into the hole. Very nice and snug fit.
I did a good approx. 50 mile run in almost 100 degree heat with the ac on and...
NO MORE hot relay. The thing barely registers any warmth at all.
That's my fix for the warmer months. When winter comes and I need the heater, I will simply pull out the relay, attach a heat sink to it and plug the hole in the duct.
First photo shows routing of relay wires to the rubber plug (just to the right and under alarm horn) with relay box cover removed. No more EFI relay here.
Second photo was taken from under the duct looking up and shows the relay in the "COLD CHILL CHAMBER".
I hope this stuff helps someone out as it is not a comfortable feeling to know your '91-'92 80 series can die at any time.
