Does anyone know if 80 series or other model Load Sensing Brake Proportioning Valve would fit on my FJ62?
Last edited:
1988 Load Sensing Brake Proportioning Valve replacement part.
- Thread starter Angelo Alverio
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'd like to know as well. I just went through a whole ordeal re: my brakes in my '89 FJ62 (it was pulling to the left when I was braking), and after replacing the front calipers and pads to no avail, it culminated with my mechanic telling me that my P Valve was kaput- though he took it apart and cleaned it out, he says the '89 P Valve is unique (as in you can't use the blue one that's available online for the entire 62 series- we went under the truck and he showed me that mine was black) and he's going to have to look for a used one from another '89 FJ62 online, buy it, take it apart, and determine if it's in good enough shape to put on my truck.
I'd rather buy a new part that's compatible - hence my +1 to the OP
I'd rather buy a new part that's compatible - hence my +1 to the OP
Last edited:
I don't know if the LSPV from an 80 series will work, although I would suspect it can be made to work if it doesn't immediately bolt on.
Your story @M P definitely sounds suspicious. The LSPV controls hydraulic pressure to your rears so it really shouldn't have an impact on pulling to the left. More likely your right rear brake is not adjusted correctly.
Rather than buying a used '89 LSPV, it would be easier to delete your LSPV and leave it at that. Or, if you expect to be hauling something or otherwise don't feel comfortable braking without an LSPV, you can install a manual LSPV right after your master cylinder. If you search around mud, you'll find a few tech posts describing how to do it.
Your story @M P definitely sounds suspicious. The LSPV controls hydraulic pressure to your rears so it really shouldn't have an impact on pulling to the left. More likely your right rear brake is not adjusted correctly.
Rather than buying a used '89 LSPV, it would be easier to delete your LSPV and leave it at that. Or, if you expect to be hauling something or otherwise don't feel comfortable braking without an LSPV, you can install a manual LSPV right after your master cylinder. If you search around mud, you'll find a few tech posts describing how to do it.
I thought as much- the same shop had replaced the rear cylinders/brakes a few months back, so either they went back and adjusted those properly, or adjusted the alignment (or likely a little of both)- all I know is it's braking fine right now (knock on wood).
I'm fully down the rabbit hole of research re proportioning valves - the manual valve seems like a good way to go, but from what I understand it's important to build a bracket for it so it's well anchored/supported...
Thanks so much for your help.
M
I'm fully down the rabbit hole of research re proportioning valves - the manual valve seems like a good way to go, but from what I understand it's important to build a bracket for it so it's well anchored/supported...
Thanks so much for your help.
M
I fell down this rabbit hole earlier this year after I installed an OME lift and my brakes were no longer effective. Some people report dramatically better braking performance after removing the LSPV while others warn that the LSPV is an important safety feature that keeps your rear brakes from locking up under panic braking scenarios.
I seriously considered the deletion route but ended up deciding it was easier just to fabricate a bracket that raises the anchor off the rear axle so the spring was under more tension. Amputating a complex network of brake lines just seemed more daunting in comparison.
BTW, building brackets isn't too hard usually. Just get a thin aluminum or steel bar, drill some holes into for the bolts to fit into, then bend it into shape with a bench vise.
I seriously considered the deletion route but ended up deciding it was easier just to fabricate a bracket that raises the anchor off the rear axle so the spring was under more tension. Amputating a complex network of brake lines just seemed more daunting in comparison.
BTW, building brackets isn't too hard usually. Just get a thin aluminum or steel bar, drill some holes into for the bolts to fit into, then bend it into shape with a bench vise.
