1982 pickup with Tacoma TRD rear axle? (1 Viewer)

[gnob]

Makes sense. So that could just be the rear axle from an IFS truck. My idea of the Tacoma rear would actually make it sit a bit wider in the rear, so that at least would be avoided.

there's no real issue with the taco rear.
you'll have to deal with routing the parking brake cable because they swing the opposite way and later tacoma pushed the mechanism under the spring.
its my understanding that the taco housing is slightly weaker than the earlier stuff, but that could be heresay as well.
modding the earlier housing for elocker is pretty easy if you can weld a bit and tap holes. i have done a couple and its pretty gravy.

all of this depends on your end game. if you want to stay stockish, leave it alone. if you are actually going to wheel it, the width is really nice.

imo the first two mods to a sa rig should front brake upgrades and crossover steering.

 

[bkg]

Tacoma rear axle (and the other pickups) still have the drum brakes, I've seen discussion about different solutions for the parking brake when doing a rear disc brake conversion, so I assumed that wouldn't be necessary with drums staying on the rear....but you know what they say about that

while this is technically accurate, the size of the drums were changed dramatically from the 1st gen pickup to the Tacoma. Add that to the idea of upgrading the fronts (which I would absolutely do the FRORF path, if I had a chance to do it again), you'll still need to address the MC. Likely best best is the tried and true T100 booster/FZJ80 master (with a proportioning valve to fine tune the rear).

So now you're changing a lot of systems just to get an elocker. While I'm a fan of elockers - I doubt I'd spend any time retrofitting one when an ARB or Ziplocker is arguably easier, stronger and less troublesome...

 

[Sandman434]

there's no real issue with the taco rear.
you'll have to deal with routing the parking brake cable because they swing the opposite way and later tacoma pushed the mechanism under the spring.
its my understanding that the taco housing is slightly weaker than the earlier stuff, but that could be heresay as well.
modding the earlier housing for elocker is pretty easy if you can weld a bit and tap holes. i have done a couple and its pretty gravy.

all of this depends on your end game. if you want to stay stockish, leave it alone. if you are actually going to wheel it, the width is really nice.

imo the first two mods to a sa rig should front brake upgrades and crossover steering.

Definitely plan on wheeling it, how hard is the question. I've put my 100 (2" lift, on 33s, now triple locked) through plenty and been pleased, so being able to go through some of the same things I've taken that through would be the goal, and maybe a few others I haven't tried just because of the wheelbase length.

I don't envision regearing the front and rear or going with 35s or anything like that anytime in the foreseeable future. Having a factory rear locker on that has been nice when I've needed it, although when I got the front Eaton E-Locker installed, it was way more involved and expensive than I originally thought (granted, there was damage to my original involved that had to be sorted out), and that is what has me hesitant about certain retrofit options. But, like I said, not committed to doing one specific thing - I'll consider all options available.

 

[Sandman434]

while this is technically accurate, the size of the drums were changed dramatically from the 1st gen pickup to the Tacoma. Add that to the idea of upgrading the fronts (which I would absolutely do the FRORF path, if I had a chance to do it again), you'll still need to address the MC. Likely best best is the tried and true T100 booster/FZJ80 master (with a proportioning valve to fine tune the rear).

So now you're changing a lot of systems just to get an elocker. While I'm a fan of elockers - I doubt I'd spend any time retrofitting one when an ARB or Ziplocker is arguably easier, stronger and less troublesome...

I do have a 4Runner booster/master cylinder, which would match calipers & rotors on the front if/when converted. I am unfamiliar with the proportioning valve, other than knowing these do have one.

I'm more familiar with electronic lockers, opted for one over an air locker for a couple reasons on my 100, but in either case, it feels like it will have to be either a retrofit of some kind or just leaving it completely as is due to at this point..

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

Replying to both of these since they are related to modifying the existing housing. I've seen several write ups and videos about doing that: honestly, that's something I'm hesitant about venturing to do myself, due to not having a good work space setup, messing with gears myself, and the potential time sink. Not expecting that any option is just a quick 3-4 hour job, but the hope of finding a complete axle for $700-800 and swapping it in (if it were that "easy") seemed better than what feels like the other current option of having a shop do the modification and installation for me.

@pappy, do you have the link to the YouTube video you mentioned as the good one?

For the rear, it's really not difficult or challenging with basic skills using a grinder, drill and tap. You aren't messing w/ the gears at all unless you regear which it doesn't sound like you are. The hardest part to me was removing the inner axles, which isn't bad.

The gasket does an excellent job on identifying the location of the area to cut out. Pappy's method for starting the holes is probably the right way to go and removes opportunity for error as you're drilling.

I did not weld on any additional pad for the mating/sealing surface like Pappy did, put 18k miles on it in the last year since I did it all with zero leaks so my opinion so far is it's not a mandatory item to do on the swap, however, does look cleaner.

I averaged $350 for my 2 donor axles last year that i found fairly quickly, try searching more broadly on FB marketplace and hopefully you aren't into an axle for $700+

 

[msahr]

Your stock rear axle on your '82 is plenty strong enough, brakes work fine, and you can easily get a rear locker for it without all that huge work just to be able to run a e-locker.

Why not just have Marlin Crawler install a locker on a different diff and swap it out? Literally 1-2 hours max if you take your time. Easy job.

I've had a Detroit auto-locker on the rear of my 85 4Runner for years, stock axle, 35s, no issues. Stock width, too. In the front, I swapped over to the larger Master Cylinder / calipers / rotors years ago in the front, way worth it. Again, stock width. Toyota parts.

You know going wider will be a slippery slope: Wider means the tires may not stuff into the wheel wells, so you're lifting it or playing with wheel widths or (gasp) cutting the bed.

I mean work and fabrication just for the sake of it can be fun, but if you don't really need / want to...

Oh and I know they'll be disagreements to this, but running QUALITY (that means none of that china Amazon crap) billet aluminum bolt-on spacers is fine. I ran 1.5" spacers that I sourced from All-Pro years ago on my FJ40 with a 4" lift, 35s, yada yada. Never had a single issue ever. That would give you your extra width and easier wheel choices.

Good Luck.

 

[Sandman434]

For the rear, it's really not difficult or challenging with basic skills using a grinder, drill and tap. You aren't messing w/ the gears at all unless you regear which it doesn't sound like you are. The hardest part to me was removing the inner axles, which isn't bad.

The gasket does an excellent job on identifying the location of the area to cut out. Pappy's method for starting the holes is probably the right way to go and removes opportunity for error as you're drilling.

I did not weld on any additional pad for the mating/sealing surface like Pappy did, put 18k miles on it in the last year since I did it all with zero leaks so my opinion so far is it's not a mandatory item to do on the swap, however, does look cleaner.

I averaged $350 for my 2 donor axles last year that i found fairly quickly, try searching more broadly on FB marketplace and hopefully you aren't into an axle for $700+

This shows my inexperience with gears lol - I have yet to open up a differential. My only prior experience with installing a locker was on the front of a 100, and researching that it was clear I was not prepared for doing that myself, particularly with setting new gears and shimming to get them to mesh properly. Assumed that without getting a fully assembled 3rd member with the locker already installed it would require some work with the gears. And I took a look at ECGS for an idea of pricing for those options.

The $700 axle I found and was referring to was the complete Tacoma TRD rear. However, I have found rears from older models that are much less expensive!

 

[msahr]

This shows my inexperience with gears lol - I have yet to open up a differential. My only prior experience with installing a locker was on the front of a 100, and researching that it was clear I was not prepared for doing that myself, particularly with setting new gears and shimming to get them to mesh properly. Assumed that without getting a fully assembled 3rd member with the locker already installed it would require some work with the gears. And I took a look at ECGS for an idea of pricing for those options.

The $700 axle I found and was referring to was the complete Tacoma TRD rear. However, I have found rears from older models that are much less expensive!

That's the beauty of giving Marlin Crawler a call. They will set up a rear differential for you, and you just need to swap it out. Jack up the truck, remove the driveshaft, remove the tires/wheels, brake drums, axle shafts, drain the diff fluid (the worst part of the job), unbolt the 3rd (diff), remove. New gasket. Like a Haynes manual says: "Replacement is the reverse of the removal procedure" LOL. I'm sure if you look on YouTube somebody has a video.

 

[Mudder]

Marlin, East Coast Gear Supply and even Trail Gear all have options for drop ins if that’s the preferred way to go. ECGS has the most options when I was looking.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

FWIW, I had a shop re-gear both my diffs to 4:88, while I did the drilling, tapping, re-install, and all the wiring. I did not have a garage at the time that the truck would fit into, so it was all in the driveway. I used pretty much the same method as Pappy, using drill bits for alignment. I did not try to weld an additional shoulder onto the axle housing. No leaks so far. Wiring was what probably took the most time and headache.

 

[Sandman434]

That's the beauty of giving Marlin Crawler a call. They will set up a rear differential for you, and you just need to swap it out. Jack up the truck, remove the driveshaft, remove the tires/wheels, brake drums, axle shafts, drain the diff fluid (the worst part of the job), unbolt the 3rd (diff), remove. New gasket. Like a Haynes manual says: "Replacement is the reverse of the removal procedure" LOL. I'm sure if you look on YouTube somebody has a video.

Marlin, East Coast Gear Supply and even Trail Gear all have options for drop ins if that’s the preferred way to go. ECGS has the most options when I was looking.

Those would be the easy options, I looked at both a couple weeks back, ECGS is not terribly far from me either. Just simply can't afford it as an option right now. That was the primary reason for questioning the feasibility of a complete axle swap when I could get one for much less.

 

[Sandman434]

FWIW, I had a shop re-gear both my diffs to 4:88, while I did the drilling, tapping, re-install, and all the wiring. I did not have a garage at the time that the truck would fit into, so it was all in the driveway. I used pretty much the same method as Pappy, using drill bits for alignment. I did not try to weld an additional shoulder onto the axle housing. No leaks so far. Wiring was what probably took the most time and headache.

Similar situation, this would all be in the driveway. Probably would feel most confident about the wiring. I feel like keeping it stable for drilling and tapping in the driveway would be a time lol

 

[aztoyman]

What size tires are you planning on running? Stock 4.10 gears even with smallish 31" tires makes the truck gutless. You won't be using 5th gear much. It does get old so budget for a gear swap or search for some diffs already setup with the correct gears. You will like driving your truck much more.

You can go budget locker if you're not running big power and big tires. I started out with my IFS 88 pickup that I bought from a friend back in 2006. It had 31's and 4.56 gears with Detroit Tru-Tracs. I did a SAS and put 35's on with 5.29 gears and Aussie Lockers. One I bought used. I thought I'd run them until they broke and then upgrade to a Grizzly. They're still going after all these years. I've had a 3.4 V6 most of those years.

One thing I recommend is to have the shop use a solid pinion spacer when they setup your gears. Makes it easy for future pinion seal changes.

 

[Sandman434]

Haven’t checked here and updated in a bit, thanks again for all of the suggestions, everyone. Have had some time to assess things now that I have it, primarily I’m focused on getting it cleaned and running well. The answers here and other things I’ve been able to look more closely into have told me the Tacoma rear axle idea is not the way for me to go, particularly for just getting a rear locker out of it.

I have no intentions of building a rock crawler (don’t see myself putting anything bigger than 33s on, if not sticking with the current 31s), but lower gearing may still be of interest. Tried jumping straight to the locker before considering that. One option I’ve seen that I may consider is finding two 2nd gen V6 4Runner rear diffs with 4.88 gears and installing those. Also was unfamiliar with Aussie Lockers until they were mentioned here, so that has piqued my interest a bit. Who knows, later projects at this point - the budget is calling for some other items first!