For Sale 1982 BJ42 3B Turbo, H55F

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Location
United States
No longer for sale at this time. decided to fix it up prior to selling it.

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So you have a ton of pics but what is the mechanical condition like:

1. blow smoke after start-up?
2. transmission tight?
3. clutch system in good condition?
4. brakes? (disc in front; drum in back?)
5. springs in what kind of condition?
6. lacks power with low compressions? Any idea what's wrong?
7. steering tight or loose?
8. condition of knuckles/bearings if known?
9. all gauges work?
10. both fuel tanks work off gauge when switched from one to another. Range?
11. anything amiss with the electrical?
12. Do you have the rear bench seats?
13. Any idea on the regularity of the service given the truck? (doesn't sound like very regular)
14. heater work?

It's hard to know the real value of the truck w/o knowing the answers to these kind of questions. The cost is not in the initial price but in everything that will have to be done to it to bring it to good working order w/o having constant problems. thanks for taking the time to answer.
 
1. blow smoke after start-up?
A little when it's cold. It's the stock manual glow system. Smoke only happens on first startup of the day. I'd be happy to do a compression test and leakdown test if someone is interested.

2. transmission tight?
Yes, very. The H55f had new bearings installed before I put it in the vehicle. It's the correct 40 series H55f, not a chopped floor job from a 60 series. Drivesfhats are the correct stock Toyota 5 speed ones, not customs. The rear driveshaft has a little wiggle in one of the universals.

3. clutch system in good condition?
very good. works perfectly.

4. brakes? (disc in front; drum in back?)
drums all around. no leaky wheel cylinders. These are the wide-shoe type drums. They stop better than the US-spec 40 series with front disc brakes. A little bit of an inconvenience adjusting them.

5. springs in what kind of condition?
Springs are in good condition. I installed a full OME Dakar system in 2008 before a trip from Maine CO/UT. They likely have about 35k miles on them. I've always kept the shackles well-greased.

6. lacks power with low compressions? Any idea what's wrong?
It doesn't lack power at all. I replaced the pump diaphragm last summer and was surprised how much more responsive and peppy it feels.

7. steering tight or loose?
Tight. very.

8. condition of knuckles/bearings if known?
Rebuilt knuckles with all new Japanese bearings and seals in 2008. Both differentials received new bearings at the same time. Also did new tire rod ends and other front-end wiggle joints at the time too.

9. all gauges work?
Yes, and I've added Autometer aux gauges a mechanical oil pressure gauge, mechanical water temp,volt meter, pyrometer and a separate fuel tank gauge for the rear tank.

10. both fuel tanks work off gauge when switched from one to another. Range?
Each tank has it's own fuel gauge. Rear tank is setup with a transfer pump to move fuel to the front tank. I used to fill the rear tank with B99 biodeisel and use the front tank to mix to ~B20. I can almost make it from my home in northwestern Maine to my parents place in Ohio without stopping for fuel doing 65MPH on the I90. It's 870 miles. I'd say the range is easily 700 miles, possibly 750 depending on driving style and road conditions.


11. anything amiss with the electrical?
The mounting nut on side front turn signal mount rusted off and the light is lose. (I know, not really electrical.) The wires to the rear license plate light are cut. I'd usually keep the top off it all summer and leave it parked all winter. Most winters it was stored in an unheated warehouse.

12. Do you have the rear bench seats?
No, it has a Metaltech Jackson roll bar that gets in the way of the rear seats.

13. Any idea on the regularity of the service given the truck? (doesn't sound like very regular)
Actually, very regular since I've owned it. Can't comment on how it was maintained in NZ before I imported it. When I was driving it more frequently I'd adjust the valves every spring when it came out of storage. I've always run Amsoil gear oil in the trans/tcase and differentials. Rebuilt the fuel injectors about 20k miles ago. (Just injectors, not the pump.)

The past few years I've had it on a regimen of Auto-RX. I assume the low compression is due to oil-coked rings. I have not tested the compression to see if the Auto-RX helped. It doesn't run like an engine with low compression.



14. heater work?
Heater works great. I don't have the plenum from the blower motor to the heater core installed at the moment because I was tinkering with the glow plug and EDIC controllers. I don't drive it in the winters. (Hard to believe with the rust, I know.) I replaced the core a few years back because it was leaking. Installed all new foam and seals at the time too.


The 42 is going away because we really haven't used it much at all since getting the Quad Cab Hilux. The Hilux provides all the same fun that we get from the 42, and a lot more versatility. I also have an HJ45 that I need to devote some time to getting on the road again for some traveling next winter. It's hard to devote time to working on the 42.

I have a 3B engine in my garage that's in very good/great shape. (425 psi compression cold) If I do the body work on it I'll likely swap the engine too at the time. That engine was destined for a 45 Troopy project that I sold.
 
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Any interest in a Built 97 Tacoma Rock Crawler?
Quick List:
4-cyl, 5 speed, Extended Cab
Dana 60 Front, 14 Bolt Rear.
Coil-over's on the front
Dual Cases with a twin stick and Inchworm clocker
R151F Transmission
40" MTR's
Needs some things but could be rad.
 
Heard that. Good luck with the sale, I wish I had that same trans in my HJ45. It'd be a game changer!
 
RufusTheDufus said:
1. blow smoke after start-up?
A little when it's cold. It's the stock manual glow system. Smoke only happens on first startup of the day. I'd be happy to do a compression test and leakdown test if someone is interested.

2. transmission tight?
Yes, very. The H55f had new bearings installed before I put it in the vehicle. It's the correct 40 series H55f, not a chopped floor job from a 60 series. Drivesfhats are the correct stock Toyota 5 speed ones, not customs. The rear driveshaft has a little wiggle in one of the universals.

3. clutch system in good condition?
very good. works perfectly.

4. brakes? (disc in front; drum in back?)
drums all around. no leaky wheel cylinders. These are the wide-shoe type drums. They stop better than the US-spec 40 series with front disc brakes. A little bit of an inconvenience adjusting them.

5. springs in what kind of condition?
Springs are in good condition. I installed a full OME Dakar system in 2008 before a trip from Maine CO/UT. They likely have about 35k miles on them. I've always kept the shackles well-greased.

6. lacks power with low compressions? Any idea what's wrong?
It doesn't lack power at all. I replaced the pump diaphragm last summer and was surprised how much more responsive and peppy it feels.

7. steering tight or loose?
Tight. very.

8. condition of knuckles/bearings if known?
Rebuilt knuckles with all new Japanese bearings and seals in 2008. Both differentials received new bearings at the same time. Also did new tire rod ends and other front-end wiggle joints at the time too.

9. all gauges work?
Yes, and I've added Autometer aux gauges a mechanical oil pressure gauge, mechanical water temp,volt meter, pyrometer and a separate fuel tank gauge for the rear tank.

10. both fuel tanks work off gauge when switched from one to another. Range?
Each tank has it's own fuel gauge. Rear tank is setup with a transfer pump to move fuel to the front tank. I used to fill the rear tank with B99 biodeisel and use the front tank to mix to ~B20. I can almost make it from my home in northwestern Maine to my parents place in Ohio without stopping for fuel doing 65MPH on the I90. It's 870 miles. I'd say the range is easily 700 miles, possibly 750 depending on driving style and road conditions.


11. anything amiss with the electrical?
The mounting nut on side front turn signal mount rusted off and the light is lose. (I know, not really electrical.) The wires to the rear license plate light are cut. I'd usually keep the top off it all summer and leave it parked all winter. Most winters it was stored in an unheated warehouse.

12. Do you have the rear bench seats?
No, it has a Metaltech Jackson roll bar that gets in the way of the rear seats.

13. Any idea on the regularity of the service given the truck? (doesn't sound like very regular)
Actually, very regular since I've owned it. Can't comment on how it was maintained in NZ before I imported it. When I was driving it more frequently I'd adjust the valves every spring when it came out of storage. I've always run Amsoil gear oil in the trans/tcase and differentials. Rebuilt the fuel injectors about 20k miles ago. (Just injectors, not the pump.)

The past few years I've had it on a regimen of Auto-RX. I assume the low compression is due to oil-coked rings. I have not tested the compression to see if the Auto-RX helped. It doesn't run like an engine with low compression.



14. heater work?
Heater works great. I don't have the plenum from the blower motor to the heater core installed at the moment because I was tinkering with the glow plug and EDIC controllers. I don't drive it in the winters. (Hard to believe with the rust, I know.) I replaced the core a few years back because it was leaking. Installed all new foam and seals at the time too.


The 42 is going away because we really haven't used it much at all since getting the Quad Cab Hilux. The Hilux provides all the same fun that we get from the 42, and a lot more versatility. I also have an HJ45 that I need to devote some time to getting on the road again for some traveling next winter. It's hard to devote time to working on the 42.

I have a 3B engine in my garage that's in very good/great shape. (425 psi compression cold) If I do the body work on it I'll likely swap the engine too at the time. That engine was destined for a 45 Troopy project that I sold.
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Thanks for all the info. Very helpful. So, here are a few more questions:
1. How many miles total and since you have had it?
2. Will the heater, cut wires to the license plate, right-side blinker get fixed before the sale?
3. The wires hanging down at the rear don't look cut; they just look like they are no longer attached to what could have been a hitch. What is the story there?
4. There's a TON of rust on that thing. Most of it looks surface--but somewhat deep surface, not just a light sanding. Where are the sections that will need cutting out and replacing?
5. Also looks like there is some bondo in the grey painted areas. Know anything about that and how bad it is under the cracking?
6. So what you're saying overall is that you've taken great mechanical care of it but not the equivalent body care?
7. Can you get the compressions?
8. Other than getting better compressions, is there any other reason you would swap the 3b that's in there with the one in the garage?
 
1. How many miles total and since you have had it?
I swapped the gauge cluster from the NZ km/hr to a US-style km/hr cluster and didn't record the miles on it at the time of the swap. Total miles since I've had it is right around 35k since the suspension swap and 33" tires were one of the first mods I did after owning it. It might not even be 35k because the 33x9.5 BFG's haven't been changed since the suspension swap and they still have a bunch of life left in them.

2. Will the heater, cut wires to the license plate, right-side blinker get fixed before the sale?
Maybe. Easy enough to fix. Sure.

3. The wires hanging down at the rear don't look cut; they just look like they are no longer attached to what could have been a hitch. What is the story there?
Those wires are a Toyota turn/brake converter to 3 wire trailer setup. I bought a M101CDN trailer from another Mud member and pulled it home from the Yankee Toys Fall Gathering. I've used the 42 for very limited trailer pulling since then. Usually just to pickup a load of compost in the the spring. That pintle hitch is for the M101CDN.

4. There's a TON of rust on that thing. Most of it looks surface--but somewhat deep surface, not just a light sanding. Where are the sections that will need cutting out and replacing?
I spent a little time looking at it today. The rear lower corners are much more rotten now than they were two years ago. They need cut out and new metal welded in place. That's the only location where I think there's metal that needs replaced.

5. Also looks like there is some bondo in the grey painted areas. Know anything about that and how bad it is under the cracking?
There is bondo there. In the rear corners. Don't know how much. Doesn't seem like much.

6. So what you're saying overall is that you've taken great mechanical care of it but not the equivalent body care?
I didn't say that. That's an assumption you have made based on your own observations.

7. Can you get the compressions?
Sure, I'll do it cold, hot and leak down. I'd like to know what I'm selling. I'm not a bull**** artist.

8. Other than getting better compressions, is there any other reason you would swap the 3b that's in there with the one in the garage?
If I pull this thing apart to paint it and do the bodywork it's not much more work to do engine swap if I already have the front end apart. I'd swap the engine primarily because of low compression and lack of desire to dig into the motor and repair it if it needs repairs. I don't want to dump money into something purely to sell it. But I already own the paint and 2 other 3B engines that aren't installed in vehicles. (I have 4 H55f trasmissions with 3B input shafts too. Unfortunately they are 60 series top plate types.)

I put this out there for sale because I don't have time to devote to making it right. I'd rather work on the HJ45 to BJ45 Troopy conversion. But there's a certain point financial financially where I will make the time. It's a $15k vehicle with the bodywork done and a swapped 3B. That's the route I'm leaning towards at this point.
 
RufusTheDufus said:
1. How many miles total and since you have had it?
I swapped the gauge cluster from the NZ km/hr to a US-style km/hr cluster and didn't record the miles on it at the time of the swap. Total miles since I've had it is right around 35k since the suspension swap and 33" tires were one of the first mods I did after owning it. It might not even be 35k because the 33x9.5 BFG's haven't been changed since the suspension swap and they still have a bunch of life left in them.

2. Will the heater, cut wires to the license plate, right-side blinker get fixed before the sale?
Maybe. Easy enough to fix. Sure.

3. The wires hanging down at the rear don't look cut; they just look like they are no longer attached to what could have been a hitch. What is the story there?
Those wires are a Toyota turn/brake converter to 3 wire trailer setup. I bought a M101CDN trailer from another Mud member and pulled it home from the Yankee Toys Fall Gathering. I've used the 42 for very limited trailer pulling since then. Usually just to pickup a load of compost in the the spring. That pintle hitch is for the M101CDN.

4. There's a TON of rust on that thing. Most of it looks surface--but somewhat deep surface, not just a light sanding. Where are the sections that will need cutting out and replacing?
I spent a little time looking at it today. The rear lower corners are much more rotten now than they were two years ago. They need cut out and new metal welded in place. That's the only location where I think there's metal that needs replaced.

5. Also looks like there is some bondo in the grey painted areas. Know anything about that and how bad it is under the cracking?
There is bondo there. In the rear corners. Don't know how much. Doesn't seem like much.

6. So what you're saying overall is that you've taken great mechanical care of it but not the equivalent body care?
I didn't say that. That's an assumption you have made based on your own observations.

7. Can you get the compressions?
Sure, I'll do it cold, hot and leak down. I'd like to know what I'm selling. I'm not a bull**** artist.

8. Other than getting better compressions, is there any other reason you would swap the 3b that's in there with the one in the garage?
If I pull this thing apart to paint it and do the bodywork it's not much more work to do engine swap if I already have the front end apart. I'd swap the engine primarily because of low compression and lack of desire to dig into the motor and repair it if it needs repairs. I don't want to dump money into something purely to sell it. But I already own the paint and 2 other 3B engines that aren't installed in vehicles. (I have 4 H55f trasmissions with 3B input shafts too. Unfortunately they are 60 series top plate types.)

I put this out there for sale because I don't have time to devote to making it right. I'd rather work on the HJ45 to BJ45 Troopy conversion. But there's a certain point financial financially where I will make the time. It's a $15k vehicle with the bodywork done and a swapped 3B. That's the route I'm leaning towards at this point.
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Thanks again for the answers and quick reply. Question #6 was rehetorical--tongue-in-cheek. It just struck me that it seems like you are very careful with the mechanical side and have real expertise there but not equally interested in the body side with all its rust. No offense intended. Thanks for doing the compressions.
 
RufusTheDufus said:
It's a $15k vehicle with the bodywork done and a swapped 3B. That's the route I'm leaning towards at this point.
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I think if someone orders a new LHD tub and while doing the resto turn it in to a LHD BJ42 with pink unicorn 5 speed it would be worth way more then 15K considering what 40's are selling for over the past years.

The 3B is still my favorite devil do all engine for a 40,it will get you anywhere and sips fuel.

GLWS
 
As I was telling someone else in a PM, the rust problems started up about a year after our trip to UT. We were camping in the San Rafael swell area and got caught in a nasty wind storm. The gritty dirt seemed to sandblast the paint in the strangest ways.
joekatana said:
...BJ42 with pink unicorn 5 speed ...
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I had no idea what a Pink Unicorn this trans was when I first bought it. It's a significant chunk of the truck's value.
 
BTW, I should have mentioned this earlier because it might be a problem in some states. I live in Maine. Maine does not issue vehicle ownership Titles for anything older than 1995. So I will only be able to sell it with a Bill of Sale and my original registration form that shows I'm the owner. If necessary, I can get a letter from the Maine BMV attesting to the fact that they do not issue Titles for anything older than 1995. I just wanted to put this info out there because it's a bit of an oddity. I've never lived anywhere else that didn't issue titles for older vehicles.

The rust problems have gotten worse since 2014 when I first put this up for sale. The rear corners will need to be cut out and replaced. The bottoms of the doors are rotten. The wiper motor cover is rotten too. (I have a nice spare.) I also have very nice rear barn doors and side panels I could toss in with the sale.

Uploaded a few videos to YouTube if you're curious. here they are
 
Here's the compression numbers. Tested it both cold and hot. They have improved a bit with the AutoRX treatments. I have some GM upper cylinder cleaner that I'll try in it overnight and see if there's any additional improvement.
Cold/Hot
Cyl 1- 368/381 psi
2 - 353/366
3 - 351/364
4 333/348

I can do a leakdown test to see if the compression is leaking past the rings, the valves or both.

Considering the rust and the engine if I can get $9k for it as-is I'd sell it. Otherwise I think I should do the work to fix it up for sale.
 
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