Rockauto has some for your stock setup and they have the parts you need to do the upgrade if you wanted too.
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I personally would stick with Toyota Rotors and Advics pads. The metallurgy is solid and you can get Advics (OE supplier) from Rock usually. All of that means less problems, longer life, and less maintenance. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted to factory specifications for the brakes to work properly. This is often neglected and people think that the brakes aren’t good and that they need an upgrade which on a stock truck isn’t necessary. As far as the springs they look pretty good for the age but need new bushings and shocks. Make sure and use high moly grease on those Birfields like Valvoline Synthetic. If your truck is not in a salt area then a basic rust converter spray and a sheet of cardboard moving around the underside can make pretty quick clean work with annual touch ups since you are trying to avoid a frame off.
Do you recommend a poly bushing replacement?
What shocks do you find to give a nice ride paired with stock springs?
Poly is more economical since you can purchase a kit but some polys will crack with age and of course rubber wears so really a maintenance item.
A basic hydraulic shock like came from the factory (KYB entry level is closest match) will yield a better ride than a high pressure gas shock for an economical option. Mid grade would be a Gabriel Ultra. Otherwise, a Bilstein 4600 or 5100 for lifts. These trucks are so light they don’t need as much air pressure in the tire either.
A basic hydraulic shock like came from the factory (KYB entry level is closest match) will yield a better ride than a high pressure gas shock for an economical option. Mid grade would be a Gabriel Ultra. Otherwise, a Bilstein 4600 or 5100 for lifts. These trucks are so light they don’t need as much air pressure in the tire either.
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- #45
Very helpful information @thetoyotaman. Again, many thanks. I am kind of struggling trying to find the right suppliers for all this stuff. So I held off on rotors and I am glad I did based on your recommendation. I ordered shocks from Rock Auto yesterday and they are in the "increased ride/handling" section. I got the KYB KG5437 and 8 Gas-A-Just Monotube. Hoping I got the right ones...? I also received my order from Marlin Crawler yesterday that contains the shifter bushings, spring bushings, and SS brake lines. I hope the spring bushings are correct for stock factory springs. Any intel from you guys here? Two main reasons for concern there - one that they are poly and over in the early Porsche world, poly bushings mean squeaking suspension. Does anyone have any experience with these? Or are there rubber ones available and are they better? The second reason for concern is that I called them about brake rotors and they commented that their products are mainly geared for upgrades to suspension and brakes. Gets me to thinking that their poly bushings may not work with factory springs.
My next step in the progress is to clean parts and paint. Any paint suggestions for durable chassis paint? I was thinking Rustoleum satin black as that appears to be the most durable. I did get a good moly grease for the Birfield - Valvoline Moly EP. I guess I could return it and go synthetic if that is better. Appreciate the help guys.
My next step in the progress is to clean parts and paint. Any paint suggestions for durable chassis paint? I was thinking Rustoleum satin black as that appears to be the most durable. I did get a good moly grease for the Birfield - Valvoline Moly EP. I guess I could return it and go synthetic if that is better. Appreciate the help guys.
Shocks are a lot about preference. The KYB Excel-G would be the OE replacement for the most economical best ride. The Gas-A-Just will be stiffer. Rubber spring bushings will ride better than poly. Poly can squeak if the outer side of the bushing is greased during installation causing it to collect dirt. Spring bushings come in all shapes and sizes for different leaf springs even on the same vehicle. SS brake lines are usually longer for lifts. Paint durability has a lot to do with prep work. Check out the Valvoline temperature range for the Moly EP and see if it meets your climate.
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- #47
Appreciate the rundown. I think I will keep the KYB Gas-A-Just since they already shipped. However, I do believe that I will return all the Marlin Crawler stuff and buy stock brake lines and rubber spring bushings. I think I will return the Moly EP and find the synthetic brand for Valvoline. Better safe than sorry.
Regarding cleaning up the crusty parts, I did a full suspension refresh on a my 69 911 and I cleaned up all the parts to bare metal and either painted them or powder coated them. But I had all the rear parts off the chassis followed by the front. I do not want to go that route here, but may be close since I am pulling the springs off. And the diffs have good access, so easy to get a wire brush in there. I am trying to not slip down the slope and have all the hardware yellow zinc plated. I hate putting crusty hardware back on. I am weird that way...
Regarding cleaning up the crusty parts, I did a full suspension refresh on a my 69 911 and I cleaned up all the parts to bare metal and either painted them or powder coated them. But I had all the rear parts off the chassis followed by the front. I do not want to go that route here, but may be close since I am pulling the springs off. And the diffs have good access, so easy to get a wire brush in there. I am trying to not slip down the slope and have all the hardware yellow zinc plated. I hate putting crusty hardware back on. I am weird that way...
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- #48
So I have seen some different rubber bushing choices. I would welcome some help and direction with that before I place yet another order I have to return... Looking on Rock Auto I see just rubber and also a rubber surrounded by a steel sleeve. I have seen those as stock setups that need to be removed before upgrading. Do I need a bushing setup with the steel sleeve sandwich or just the rubber bushing I see advertised? Sorry for the dumb questions. New to this environment.
Sometimes Rock will list parts that are the wrong application such as 2WD in a 4WD listing. That’s where looking at the pics can be helpful. The torque arm bushing may come with a steel sleeve but none of the stock leaf spring bushings do. Moog, Mevotech, & Delphi are good Rock Brands. Energy Suspension has a poly kit if still available. Outside of Rock try the Toyota dealer or SuperPro poly bushings.
Not to derail your rebuild process, but I may be helping on a similar situation in the near future.
Quick question for the experienced: Is there any benefit to rebuilding the ends of the steering drag link? It appears parts are available to do so.
Quick question for the experienced: Is there any benefit to rebuilding the ends of the steering drag link? It appears parts are available to do so.
Disassemble and inspect for wear. If no wear repack with grease and adjust to factory spec.
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- #52
Well making slow progress. It is painful to not strip and plate hardware, but that’s for another time. This is a painstakingly detailed process and not all that easy. If you want to do it right and clean/paint parts, it makes it all that much more time consuming. Which is how I roll…. And this is only one side. Everything is installed and torqued up. Birfield next and am cleaning and painting the dust shield. New shock you can see and the spring will come off later for bushings. All that stuff will get cleaned up and painted at that time. Diff too. I’m going to leave the frame as is for now. It looks really good and I have a hard time blending newly cleaned and painted parts with solid weathered stuff. It’s a fun process…
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- #53
Oh and being the dumba$$ I am, I did not remove the tie rod ends so I can check the preload. I measured the old shims with a micrometer and replaced with new ones exactly the same thickness. I am sure it is fine, but will hold off on installing the birfield and remove the tie rod end. Time to start pulling apart the other side.
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- #54
So I decided to remove the tie rod ends and then check my right side work. Perfect pull spec so the tie rod end is bolted back up and all that is ready for assembly. Hub is cleaned and painted, races installed and a new rotor waiting.
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- #55
Left side is ready for disassembly and is crusty too. What do I have to worry about with the steering rack leak?
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- #56
Also @thetoyotaman mentioned a frame to body arm that has bushings that will probably need to be replaced. Is this that area? Only seen from the left side.
So i just put in new seals on that steering gear box. It wasn't that difficult for me, but i haven't been able to verify its function back in the truck....
what you have pictured is for controlling the roll-over of the front axle, it connects to the frame and axle and it may need those bushings replaced. I pushed one out only to find out it was fine so i only replaced the one.
the body to frame mounts you can find here. They don't always have the rubber ones in stock but I managed to get a set so i don't have to use the energy suspension ones which are rock hard.
what you have pictured is for controlling the roll-over of the front axle, it connects to the frame and axle and it may need those bushings replaced. I pushed one out only to find out it was fine so i only replaced the one.
the body to frame mounts you can find here. They don't always have the rubber ones in stock but I managed to get a set so i don't have to use the energy suspension ones which are rock hard.
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- #59
Well the right side is all put together and looks great. Went to clean up the caliper and decided to do a rebuild. Good thing because it is a mess and it looks like one piston has some minor pitting. Seal kits and a replacement piston on the way. Kind of glad I decided to do that since I was not too keen on installing a nasty caliper on my freshly refinished job.
Started work on the left side and I am wondering how you remove the steering arm from the steering link. Got the tie rod end disconnected, but am not quite sure how that other end of the arm comes off. Looks like I put a small tear in the tie rod boot. I looked at rock auto and they do not have rubber ones. Wondering if anyone has any experience with replacing them. Rock Auto has ones from Energy Suspension. I wonder if they would work on my stock ends. Or maybe Napa?
Started work on the left side and I am wondering how you remove the steering arm from the steering link. Got the tie rod end disconnected, but am not quite sure how that other end of the arm comes off. Looks like I put a small tear in the tie rod boot. I looked at rock auto and they do not have rubber ones. Wondering if anyone has any experience with replacing them. Rock Auto has ones from Energy Suspension. I wonder if they would work on my stock ends. Or maybe Napa?
I've tried the poly tie rod end covers a long time ago nd after awhile they split on me. Maybe they're better now???
Steering arm to link removal if I'm picturing this right, just unscrew the big cap on the end of the link all the way and the groove opens up to a large hole to remove.
Steering arm to link removal if I'm picturing this right, just unscrew the big cap on the end of the link all the way and the groove opens up to a large hole to remove.
