149k miles - Torque converter failure? Driveline vibration, the saga continues....

[UNvisible]

As my "driveline vibration saga" continues....

I have had the entire driveline checked and rechecked, there are no issues with any of my drive shafts/slip yoke/u joints/cv. There is still an awful vibration at low RPM @ 40mph (once in over drive). Latest mechanic says it's the torque converter (toyota dealer)... the other two shops said transfer case bearings and transfer case failure. This has been incredibly frustrating. Toyota dealer is quoting me $2100 for tq converter replacement. The truck drives absolutely fine with no hesitation in any gear at low or high speed, which makes me wonder how it could just be the converter going bad, wouldnt it have other symptoms?

it just has an awful pulsing vibration at 40mph at very light/partial throttle on flat ground or slight grade. Vibration stops immediately as soon as throttle is released. it is VERY easy to replicate problem, and it is very pronounced.

This problem made me miss 100's in the hills, and has prohibited me from camping all summer. I need to find a remedy, and no mechanic can seem to come to a consensus.

 

[ENGINE er]

Before you just go throw money at it.

Remove the front drive shaft. Lock the center diff, remove front hubs, go driving and see if the problem goes away.

Still have a problem?

Re assemble front axle/drive shaft

Remove rear drive shaft, lock center diff, go driving and see if the problem is gone

This is meand to isolate it to the front/back of the car. If the problem persists both ways, then its an issue in the driveline itself.

May want to try lowering your tire pressure by 10lbs or so and go driving. Sometimes a really bad set of tires can act this way as well.

I know its frustrating!

 

[Sandroad]

It sounds like the problem occurs right at torque converter lock-up. Between the 2 possibilities you've listed, I'd be more inclined to blame the converter. It doesn't seem like transfer case symptoms. Engine ER had good advice, to make sure you don't have a front/rear issue first. Where are you located? Are there any really good 100 mechanics nearby? It may not possible to get a consensus on the cause, but a good mechanic experienced with the 100s would have my vote. Since the problem is easily reproducible, could you make a deal with the dealer that if their advice on a new converter didn't work, they would give you some consideration?

 

[lx470cinci]

My 2000 LX470 had transmission flare issues. Before I replaced the tranny I tried the Lubeguard product and it did help--but my tranny was too far gone to make it go fully away. I would definitely toss a bottle or two of Lubeguard in there. It helps with clutch chatter and shudder. Worth a shot, it's your cheapest fix. Drive it for a few days. Maybe it will free up what ails your tranny.
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
Good Luck,
Greg

 

[shadow247]

Since the problem is easily reproducible, could you make a deal with the dealer that if their advice on a new converter didn't work, they would give you some consideration?

It is my personal opinion as a Service Writer in the auto business, that if I recommend a service that does not fix the customer's original complaint, those repairs and diagnostics are completely free. I will then start a new ticket for diagnosing the problem again if the customer chooses to allow me to do so.

If your shop does not have this policy, then you need to stay FAAAAR away from that place. Any shop that would make you pay for work they recommend that does not fix your problem is a joke. That is literally what you are paying for. I have seen the dealership I work at eat a 2500 dollar trans job because they diagnosed it as faulty, turned out to be a burnt wire in the trans harness causing the problem all along. They were a Ford dealer working on a Saturn, so they actually sent it across town to the GM dealer and PAID them to diagnose and fix the problem after their recommended repair did not work.

That is what a true business man would do.


Personally, I would start with the cheapest fixes first. U-joints and motor mounts can look fine on the outside, and show no signs of looseness or vibration. Have you taken your truck to a shop that has a set of listening devices. We had to take a VW Jetta that was experiencing random vibrations at certain speeds to the dealer. The tech rigged up the car with a series of microphones in strategic spots, then the drove down the road and made the noise happen while listening to each microphone. Eventually pinpointed it to a motor mount that was internally sheered but showed no signs of damage.

I guess the point is to maybe not even worry about it? If your torque converter is failing, I would expect to see burnt fluid. Is there any burning smell to your trans fluid?

 

[ponytl]

first thing I would check is the flex plate... one small crack will create some weird harmonics... motor mounts should be easy to check with hood open truck in gear foot on the brake apply power and watch for the motor to "lift" I kinda doubt the mounts... my first bet is the flex plate ....

 

[V6 Bundy]

Go get yourself some Dr Tranny Instant Shudder fix.

http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-19610-Tranny-Instant-Shudder/dp/B0002JMLQU

If it is your Torque Converter and its slipping when going into lock up, then this will help. It may fix the problem, it may not fix the problem - it certainly will reduce the shudder/vibration. Friction modifiers, these days, are excellent.

 

[a31gun]

2015 post....did you solve your problem @unv?